Atulier by Samar Nasraldin: A new perspective through craftsmanship

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Updated 20 April 2016
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Atulier by Samar Nasraldin: A new perspective through craftsmanship

Growing up in an artistic household will surely nurture any creative inclinations an individual may have, and so was the case with Samar Nasraldin. Born and raised in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, Nasraldin was brought up immersed in her mother’s artistic ambiance of surrealist paintings and calligraphy. Aside from being an artist, Nasraldin describes her mother as “a visionary teacher who taught her daughter how to observe and create.” Grounded firmly in this inspired foundation, Nasraldin seemed destined to enter the innovative world of fashion design.
Nasraldin planned her path early on in her life. Even at the young age of 13, she was determined to pursue a career in fashion design. Her resolve led to teaching herself pattern making and sewing. In 2007, she graduated from a vocational high school in which she specialized in fashion and textile. For the following two years she studied at the Millennium Institute of Technology in Jeddah, where she earned a diploma in Fashion Design and Technology. Next, she spent six months of vigorous training at the respected Central Saint Martins as well as London College of Fashion (two colleges among the several that make up The University of the Arts London). There, she concentrated on 3D fashion design, creative pattern making, and couture sewing techniques. In order to continue her education, she remained in Europe, however she moved to Paris, France for two years. In Paris, she earned a Bachelor of Arts degree in Stylisme et Technologie de la Mode (Fashion Design & Technology) from the International Fashion Academy (IFA) in 2013. While at the IFA, Nasraldin was selected to partake in their fashion show at the historic Salle Erard. Inspired by the commonalities between Sufism and Surrealism and the “unity of contradictions,” she created her graduate collection. During her time in Paris, Nasraldin was chosen along with seven other fashion students from around the world by The Arts of Fashion Foundation to participate in their four week Summer Fashion Masterclass Program in 2012. The program involved working on a project, which was a collaboration with Maison Lesage. Les Arts Decoratifs hosted the exhibition of this collaboration at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. “The event was covered by Le Figaro Madame and other distinguished audience members,” she explains. Aside from these recent accomplishments and events, Nasraldin has worked locally (Sotra, Lomar, and Maha Ghalayini) and internationally during the Paris Fashion Week at various positions (Thamanyah, Kenzo, and Ungaro among others) since 2007.
In 2014, Nasraldin partnered with the Saudi-based, Ot Kutyr fashion house, which supports up and coming designers, to establish the brand Atūlier. Since then, her designs have been asserting masterful originality on catwalks in London, Paris, and New York. “I want people to be conscious about what they are wearing and appreciate new aesthetics, and realize that it is ok to not wear what is provocative or extremely feminine.” Atulier pieces are simple yet intense, elegant yet sharp, classic yet with a hint of edginess. She wants women “to feel distinctive, strong, but in a fragile way.” Despite Nasraldin’s acknowledgment that her designs require a level of courage to be worn, and therefore have encountered hate, many have embraced Atūlier, which is a testament to the raw and pure talent and passion it exudes. In an interview with Arab News, Nasraldin shares her process, her vision for Atūlier, as well as what she is working on next.

Please tell us about Atulier.
Atulier is a play on the word “atelier,” which means a studio, and was used to emphasize fine craftsmanship. The “u” with the dash symbolizes the souvenirs.
The story of the brand is that the designer goes through a mystical journey and each collection is a souvenir that is brought back to the audience. It is available in Jeddah at Rubaiyat Department Store in Stars Avenue, at Ot Kutyr fashion house as well as the website www.atulier-online.com.

While creating your designs, where do you find inspiration?
I like to start with a word and look up its definition and then I interpret an abstract feeling/state of mind associated with the word, I then try to apply it into a 3D form and play along with that. Next, I put that feeling into textures and colors as well. They all come together magically.

In your opinion, what sets Atulier apart from the rest?
I believe that creating something “conceptual” is very hard these days, as the fashion industry is leaning toward commerciality and what is popular. Atūlier is the exact opposite of that; its aim is to accentuate the craftsmanship and to bring new perspectives through the clothes.

Your designs give an air of sophistication and boldness, what kind of feedback do you receive from clients about your pieces?
They either hate it or fall madly in love with it, and I love that contradiction of feelings in people. I understand it takes courage to wear my pieces, so if you want to wear a plain t-shirt you can simply find that at Zara.

Are there any updates or news that you can share about your brand for the upcoming year?
The upcoming year will be exciting! Spring/Summer 2016 will be in stores soon. And we are working on two capsules currently, one for Ramadan and another for Fall/Winter 16/17! Also, I’m proud to announce that Atulier was chosen as a finalist for the Vogue Fashion Experience hosted by Vogue Italia and Rubaiyat.

For more information and updates from the innovative designer follow Atulier by Samar Nasraldin on Instagram (@atulier) or for inquiries, e-mail ([email protected]).

Email: [email protected]


What We Are Buying Today: Saudi beauty brand ‘Jayla’

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Updated 30 June 2024
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What We Are Buying Today: Saudi beauty brand ‘Jayla’

  • Jayla creates head-turning scents; the brand collaborated with international perfumer Benoit Vetter to create “Pulse Perfume 50s” a perfume inspired by the scents of the 1950s

Saudi beauty brand Jayla offers a range of body and skincare products.

From perfumes to body scrubs, the products for women and men are made using top-notch ingredients, ideal for anyone looking to elevate their bodycare routine at an affordable price.

Many of Jayla’s bodycare collections are inspired by iconic perfumes, including two of Chanel’s — Coco Mademoiselle and Chanel No.5.

Inspired by Coco Mademoiselle, the “Class Boquet” collection contains four body products: whipped soap, scrub, body oil, and body butter. Each product in this collection smells like an elevated version of the original perfume.

The collection has a beautiful concoction of perfume notes: musk, mandarin, Turkish rose and vanilla.

Jayla also has collections inspired by Dior perfumes: Miss Dior, Gris, and Poison.

Their scented oils and body butters are rich in vitamins leaving the skin deeply nourished and with a divine sillage and aroma that lasts all day.

Their sugar-based scrubs are mixed with a blend of shea, mango and cocoa butter, leaving the skin soft and perfumed.

Jayla creates head-turning scents; the brand collaborated with international perfumer Benoit Vetter to create “Pulse Perfume 50s” a perfume inspired by the scents of the 1950s. This fragrance has a blend of rose, jasmine, sandalwood and amber.

Perfect for gifting, Jayla’s travel-size bodycare collections are SR180 ($48) and the full-sized collection is SR285. Each product is also sold separately, starting at SR63.

The Saudi brand also has body accessories such as loofahs, towels, and a wooden spoon and bowel set designed to hold body scrubs.

Jayla is in the Yasmeen District in the Kingdom’s capital, Riyadh, and its products are also available to purchase online at jayla.sa.

 


Miss Arab USA 2024 Zenovia Jafar talks pageant experience and aspirations

Updated 01 July 2024
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Miss Arab USA 2024 Zenovia Jafar talks pageant experience and aspirations

DUBAI: Iraqi American Zenovia Jafar was over the moon for “having made it” as she was crowned winner of the Miss Arab USA 2024 pageant in Arizona on Sunday.

“My experience with Miss Arab USA is one of the best experiences of my life. When I walked in, I had no idea what was going to happen, if I was even going to win. But most importantly, when I walked in, I will honestly say that winning was the only thing on my mind. I didn’t think about anything else,” Jafar told Arab News in an interview.

Zenovia Jafar crowned Miss Arab USA 2024. (Supplied)

“But once I actually got there, I realized the friendships and the connections I’ve made with the people here is priceless and it is far more important than winning … I genuinely wanted to connect with every single person that I met, and I think that’s what helped me win Miss Arab USA. Because I focused more on genuine connection and doing what I need to do. And I was committed to just being myself,” she added.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Miss Arab USA (@missarabusa)

When asked about her goals going forward, the Michigan resident said: “I’m going to be using my platform to raise awareness on issues regarding people who are … from underdeveloped communities, people who are in need. I’m going to be raising more money for charities. I’m here to serve Miss Arab USA and use my voice to amplify the voices of people who are not heard all over the world.”

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by zenovia (@zenoviajafar)

Jafar’s family moved to the US — having escaped the war in Iraq and spent two years in Syria after — in the late 90s, when she was a toddler.

“When I moved here, I remember one thing that my mother told us is that we should never forget our roots and where we come from. My mother was committed to teaching us how to read and write and speak Arabic. And that is something that I am so grateful to my mother for because I can read Arabic, I can write Arabic, I can speak Arabic, I can understand many Arabic dialects. And I never let go of who I was and where my family came from. And I think that’s something that is so important when you grow up away from home, is to stay connected to who you are. Because at the end of the day, all you have is your roots,” she said.

When asked if she had any advice for young Arab American women, Jafar said: “I will say that as an Arab woman, it is very, very important to push your limits and always do things outside of your comfort zone because you will never grow as a person if you are stuck in your comfort zone. Always push yourself to be better.”


Queen Rania celebrates Crown Prince Hussein’s birthday with a portrait featuring Princess Rajwa

Updated 28 June 2024
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Queen Rania celebrates Crown Prince Hussein’s birthday with a portrait featuring Princess Rajwa

DUBAI: Jordan’s Queen Rania celebrated her son Crown Prince Hussein bin Abdullah’s birthday on Instagram with a newly released portrait of him and his wife, Princess Rajwa.

In the photo, the pregnant Princess Rajwa, who is Saudi, is seen wearing a light, creamy yellow midi dress from the Spanish brand Rabanne. The dress features short sleeves, a round neckline and a gathered detail along one side, adorned with a row of buttons.

The crown prince was wearing a navy blue shirt and matching trousers.

“Happy birthday my dearest Hussein. Can’t wait to see you and Rajwa as parents,” the queen captioned the post.

The royal couple, who announced their pregnancy in April, are expecting their first child this summer.


High fashion: Saudi label Ashi Studio unveils Riyadh Air cabin crew uniforms in Paris

Updated 28 June 2024
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High fashion: Saudi label Ashi Studio unveils Riyadh Air cabin crew uniforms in Paris

PARIS: Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi, founder of the Paris-based label Ashi Studio, has unveiled the inaugural cabin crew uniforms for the Kingdom’s new airline, Riyadh Air, which is on track to make its maiden flight in 2025. 

The glittering event took place after the couturier’s Haute Couture Week show in the French capital on Thursday.

“What we’ve done is, we’ve taken the golden age of aviation and we are representing it in the current day; it’s a relevant collection,” Ashi said at the grand reveal of his collaboration with Riyadh Air on Thursday evening.

The designer created uniforms for Riyadh Air. (Supplied)

“It’s not cabin crew ‘uniforms,’ it’s cabin crew fashion,” Tony Douglas, the CEO of Riyadh Air, told the crowd at the runway show.

The luxury line is comprised of timeless cashmere outerwear, elegant dresses and trousers made of fine wools, custom leather footwear, amethyst earrings, and pillbox hats, all of which were inspired by 1950s airline fashion, widely considered the “golden age” in aviation - but with an Ashi twist.

For the uniforms, Ashi created an entirely new color tone — Electric Amethyst for womenswear and Dark Amethyst for menswear. The unique amethyst shades pay homage to Saudi Arabia’s lavender fields and are rooted within Riyadh Air’s bold color scheme. The process of creating the color alone took six months, according to show notes.

The fashion collection will be worn by Riyadh Air cabin crew, pilots, concierge agents and airport staff. They will be changed seasonally to keep the looks fresh.

Ashi unveiled the uniform design concepts at Haute Couture Week in Paris. (Supplied)

“We feel that he has actually done an incredible job of connecting back to those halcyon days of commercial aviation, the kind of Pan Ams the TWA used (from the 1950s), the “Catch Me If You Can” — with a real modern twist,” Douglas shared, referring to the hit 2002 film.   

“What Ashi and his studio have created brings back glamor,” Douglas added.

Ten womenswear looks were shown on the Paris runway, each of which were accompanied by accessories such as shoes, purses and hats. Five menswear looks were also unveiled, with the rest being kept under wraps.

Ashi included distinctive Riyadh Air elements within the concepts, such as adding the canopy twist found in the Riyadh Air brand logo into the silhouettes of some of the pieces.

There were some modest options, including a turban for women, as well as trousers. The skirts were below the knee and embodied a sleek clean design with some high collars on show. 

“For a start-up airline to be showcasing our new fashion collection during Haute Couture Week in Paris shows what an impact Riyadh Air is having globally,” Douglas told the crowd to mark the launch. “Working with Ashi on these designs has been a tremendous experience for all of us and we’re all very proud to be able to show off the creations and the full range early next year.”

 Riyadh Air is on track to make its maiden flight in 2025. (Supplied)

He was quick to point out that the elegant and chic designs will soon be recognizable in airports around the world.

“The designs will leave a lasting impression on our guests by the proud team members that wear them. When you get up close to the garments you can see the level of detail and intricacy that Ashi has included, which is in complete alignment of our values and attention to detail at Riyadh Air,” Douglas added.

“Designing for the new national airline from Saudi Arabia has had a big impact on me knowing that we are making a mark in history,” Ashi said. “Fashion and aviation have seen collaborations in the past, but its pinnacle was over 50 years ago, and I was keen to be inspired by that time. This is an amazing collaboration where fashion is helping to make an airline modern with completely unique looks. It shows that Riyadh Air has no limits and that luxury and attention to detail is key across every aspect of the experience.”

Riyadh Air will take its maiden flight in mid-2025, connecting the Saudi capital to more than 100 destinations by 2030. Ashi — or at least his creations — will be along for the ride.


Saudi-helmed Ashi Studio showcases new collection at Paris Haute Couture Week

Updated 27 June 2024
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Saudi-helmed Ashi Studio showcases new collection at Paris Haute Couture Week

  • ‘Sculpted Clouds’ draws on ‘pure emotions’  

PARIS: Paris-based label Ashi Studio, which was founded by Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi, has showcased its Fall/Winter 2024-25 Collection, called “Sculpted Clouds,” as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week.

Guests were escorted from the scorching summer heat into a darkened room with booming sounds, creating an other-worldly atmosphere. The catwalk wrapped around the small, intimate space as the audience was immersed in Ashi Studio’s avant-garde designs, a collection that captures its signature style — merging the theatrical with elements of nature.

The models wore slick-back buns and minimal makeup. (Getty Images)

From dark to light to dark again, the billowing yet structured garments playfully juxtaposed the different styles and textures, and produced a dazzling array of silhouettes, easily slipping between the hard and the soft, the feminine and the masculine.

It is a collection that heavily draws from nature as well. The models wore slick-back buns and minimal makeup and offered a clean canvas to go alongside the dramatic designs.

It is a collection that heavily draws from nature as well. (Getty Images)

Ashi said: “My collection is born of pure emotions, translating the human experience.

“At the creative onset, feelings appeared like flashes to me — courage and determination, grace, and protection. I imagine a world where the soul moves from one place to another.

The collection is called “Sculpted Clouds.” (Getty Images)

“My muse is the woman who is always searching. She embraces her fate, whatever it may be.”

Ashi became the first couturier from the region to join the Federation de la Haute Couture in Paris as a guest member in 2023.

The garments produced a dazzling array of silhouettes, easily slipping between the hard and the soft, the feminine and the masculine. (Getty Images)

He is also scheduled to unveil uniform design concepts for the much-anticipated Riyadh Air launch.

Ashi’s designs have been worn by celebrities such as Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Hudson, Kylie Minogue, Penelope Cruz, Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, and Queen Rania of Jordan.