Palestinian fashion designer breathes new life into tradition

Palestinian fashion designer Natalie Tahhan models one of her creations at her studio in the east Jerusalem neighbourhood of Ras al-Amud (AFP)
Updated 08 May 2017
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Palestinian fashion designer breathes new life into tradition

JERUSALEM: Palestinian fashion designer Natalie Tahhan is hard at work in her Jerusalem studio, replacing the painstaking processes of cross-stitching and embroidery with a laptop computer and printed fabric.
Taking inspiration from traditional Palestinian patterns, Tahhan designs patterns digitally and then has them printed on satins and silks before piecing together her garments.
Her modern take on generations-old designs has attracted a keen following both locally and abroad, particularly in the Gulf, where she sells her clothes via the web.
“I wanted to do something new, modern, never seen on the market,” the 27-year-old said, as she measured out fabric at her studio in her family home in Ras Al-Amud, east Jerusalem.
Palestinians have for centuries painstakingly sewn long black dresses and adorned them with red embroidery, in designs still worn today in rural areas and at marriages and other celebrations.

The designs vary from region to region and tend to say something about the wearer.
“We can tell where the woman who wears it is from and if she is married or single,” Tahhan said.
Several young Arab designers have sought to modernize traditional wear and bring the dresses of their ancestors — an increasingly rare sight today — to a new generation.
Tahhan, who studied in Doha and at the London College of Fashion, is among the few to do so in Jerusalem. She believes she is the only one to have abandoned traditional embroidery for her new method.

As the Palestinian territories lack the equipment she needs, she has her fabrics printed in Dubai.
They are then delivered to Jerusalem via Qatar and Jordan to circumvent the lack of direct shipments from the Gulf countries to Israel and the Palestinian territories.
Maha Saca, director of the Palestine Heritage Center in the occupied West Bank city of Bethlehem, says she supports efforts to breathe new life into traditional designs.
“Adding Palestinian motifs to modern wear is very important. It means we can wear a modern dress with Palestinian embroidery on it,” she said.
The center, established in 1991, boasts the largest collection of traditional Palestinian dresses.
“Embroidery is part of our identity and our proof of our existence in every Palestinian city and village,” Saca said. “It shows the beauty and richness of our Palestinian heritage.”
She is lobbying for traditional embroidery to be incorporated into Palestinian school uniforms.
Saca said top-end handmade dresses can cost between $1,500 and $2,000 because of the long hours of labor involved and the cost of materials.
She stresses the need to preserve hand embroidering techniques, but accepts that clothes are being produced in new and more modern ways.

“We support it 100 percent,” she said.
Tahhan’s first collection, consisting of five white and violet satin capes with shimmering geometric patterns, sold out completely in less than three months at a price of $550 a piece.
Most of the sales were to Gulf clients who bought the items online.
One of Tahhan’s signature works is a cape inspired by designs from the West Bank city of Hebron, occupied by Israel for 50 years. The garment bears a succession of blue and pink squares over black fabric, and is open at the shoulders.
Tahhan’s light fabrics work well in the Gulf market, where heavy black felt or thick cotton can become unbearable under the burning sun.
Her latest collection is called “Prints of Palestine.”
Tahhan’s location in Jerusalem, a city holy to Muslims, Christians and Jews, is also a plus for sales “despite the obstacles and difficulties” imposed by Israel’s occupation, she said.
Israel seized the West Bank and east Jerusalem in 1967. It later annexed east Jerusalem in a move never recognized by the international community.
Palestinians see the eastern sector as the capital of their future state, while Israelis consider the entire city of Jerusalem their unified capital.
“I wanted to do something as a girl from Jerusalem,” said Tahhan, her long black hair falling over her shoulders. “Why not create fashion here?“
“People love the idea of owning something made in Jerusalem, especially Palestinians abroad,” she said.
“When they buy something they feel they are taking with them a small piece of the city.”


Guerlain perfumer talks Arab perfume traditions in Riyadh 

Updated 25 November 2024
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Guerlain perfumer talks Arab perfume traditions in Riyadh 

RIYADH: Thierry Wasser, the in-house perfumer of French luxury beauty brand Guerlain, sat down with Arab News on a recent visit to Saudi Arabia to talk all things fragrance at the reopening of the flagship Guerlain boutique in Riyadh Park.

The perfumer shared his insights on the differences between typically Middle Eastern scents and their European counterparts and even touched on his previous visit to Taif in the Kingdom, which is famous for its distinct roses grown at high altitudes.

“When you go to each one of these countries, you try to discover what sent speaks for that country,” Wasser explained of his globe-trotting agenda. 

“For example, in Saudi Arabia, I think it's myrrh and I also think it's agarwood. In France, for some reason, I think it's lavender,” he added. 

The perfumer shared his experience of visiting Taif’s 1,800-meter-high Al-Sarawat Mountains, home to the Taif Rose variety, saying “It's a zig zag when you go … sometimes you have a place you don't expect the altitude to be so high.”

With more than 200 perfumes to his name, the perfumer revealed his favorite scent as Habit Rouge by Guerlain, an oriental woody perfume with notes of earth, warm leather, and the forest, launched in 1965 by the iconic Jean-Paul Guerlain.   

“It's like a shining armor. It was a disguise of a man, a manly, masculine disguise. It shaped me. My attitude changed … I kept it all my life like a lucky charm,” he said. 
Wasser's journey with the brand began in 2008, when was appointed as the first non-Guerlain family member to be the in-house perfumer of the storied house founded in 1828. 

“When you manufacture and source it, you get intimate with the formula and the fragrance from your predecessors and you are responsible for the integrity of them,” he said.

“I want to talk about the Middle East and about how perfume is expressed in the Middle East. They have a deep, intense love for very strong fragrances,” he noted, adding that he quickly learned fragrance is typically applied on clothing in the region, as opposed to directly on the skin, which is common practice in Europe. 

“So I changed my approach and I made all my trials on cotton handkerchiefs,” he explained. 

The fragrance house's iconic bee emblem reflects a commitment to sustainability. In 2021, Guerlain became one of the first luxury houses to join the Union for Ethical BioTrade and initiated a verification process for 50 natural ingredients.

“Sustainability is not exactly a marketing tool or communication tool, it is a state of mind,” Wasser said.


Keke Palmer shows off vintage Azzedine Alaia look in New York

Updated 25 November 2024
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Keke Palmer shows off vintage Azzedine Alaia look in New York

DUBAI: US actress and author Keke Palmer made an appearance on “The Drew Barrymore Show” in New York this week wearing a vintage look by late Tunisian couturier Azzedine Alaia.

Hailing from his Spring/ Summer 1986 ready-to-wear collection, the denim power suit featured a cross-body zipper, oversized sleeves and statement lapels.

Based in Paris, Alaia shot to international fame in the early 1980s and was quickly dubbed the “King of Cling.” Alaia won the Designer of the Year and Best Collection of the Year prizes at the Oscars de la Mode by the French Ministry of Culture in 1985.

Palmer showed off the look as she promoted her new book, “Master of Me.”

The “Nope” actress released the book in November and has been promoting the title at various media appearances, including on “The Drew Barrymore Show.”

In a conversation with Barrymore, the pair connected about the experience of being child stars, with Palmer stating “I’m not a victim, I’m a victor” after she praised her parents for supporting her career, which began with 2004’s “Barbershop 2: Back in Business.”

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by BIG BOSS (@keke)

“In her own raw and intimate words, Keke talks about everything from her struggles with boundaries to unconditional love, forgiveness, and worthiness,” the book’s description reads.

“Throughout the book, Keke also poses readers with the questions needed to get them through their own challenging times by sharing personal stories and lessons she’s learned along the way,” the blurb adds.

Palmer also sat down with US Iranian actress Yara Shahidi to discuss the book.

She took to Instagram shortly after the sit down, saying: “One of my favorite girls @yarashahidi discussed the themes of my book ‘Master of Me’ this past week. We had a great conversation in Boston around her old stomping grounds at Harvard! The excitement around the Many Masters Tour and the people I get to speak to is that we learn there are so many unique paths that lead to self-mastery and the exciting part is in creating your own path.”

 

 


Bella Hadid guest stars on ‘Holland’s Next Top Model’ alongside her mother

Updated 23 November 2024
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Bella Hadid guest stars on ‘Holland’s Next Top Model’ alongside her mother

DUBAI: US Dutch Palestinian model Bella Hadid shared a series of images from her experience as a guest judge on “Holland’s Next Top Model,” the reality series where her mother, Yolanda Hadid, serves as one of the judges.

The post features a carousel of photos and videos, including moments with her mother, the show’s judges and contestants, as well as behind-the-scenes shots from various photoshoots.

In the caption, the runway star expressed her excitement about her fragrance brand, Orebella, being featured on the episode, describing it as “a dream.”

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Bella (@bellahadid)

She said: “Thank you @hollandsnexttopmodelnl for having me on as a guest judge! To have @orebella be shot, on a show so dear to my heart, in my most beautiful Holland, was a dream.”

Hadid also reflected on her admiration for her mother. “To watch my mama work and be a second mama to a new generation of young creative human beings is such a blessing to me! Things that my mom can teach, she wasn’t taught. It’s part of who she is,” she said. “Her talent, nurturing ability, maternal instincts, confidence in hard work and success, faith in people and love for fashion is what makes her so special, especially on a show like this. I am so proud of you, mama.”

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Bella (@bellahadid)

The model described the transformative journey of the contestants on the show. “This was just an incredible experience to watch these young women and men push themselves but also grow to know themselves better than when they arrived,” she added. “I saw so much of myself in every one of them, and I am proud of each one for getting through a competition that I know for sure is mentally and physically exhausting.”

Hadid launched her brand in May with three fragrances: Salted Muse, Blooming Fire and Window2Soul.

In August, she expanded her collection with the launch of a new scent called Nightcap, described as a “warm and spicy” fragrance featuring notes of ginger, cardamom and vanilla.

For the launch, she hosted a party in West Hollywood, where she wore a dusty-pink gown with delicate embroidery and bow detail from Lebanese couturier Zuhair Murad.


Part-Saudi model Amira Al-Zuhair fronts Balmain’s Resort 2025 campaign

Updated 23 November 2024
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Part-Saudi model Amira Al-Zuhair fronts Balmain’s Resort 2025 campaign

DUBAI: French Saudi model Amira Al-Zuhair this week shared pictures from her latest campaign with Balmain, showcasing the brand’s Resort 2025 collection.

In one of the images, Al-Zuhair donned a strapless denim mini dress paired with two matching denim handbags and calf-high black boots.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Balmain (@balmain)

In the second image, she wore a black sequined two-piece outfit, featuring a crop top and a high-waisted skirt. The design incorporates gold and silver embellishments, with the top featuring the word “L’aime,” meaning “loves” in French. The setting, with the Eiffel Tower in the background, tied the look to the brand’s Parisian roots.

This is not Al-Zuhair’s first collaboration with Balmain. She previously walked for the brand during Paris Fashion Week in September.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Balmain (@balmain)

She showcased a structured gray blazer over a classic black T-shirt, complemented by vibrant red suede over-the-knee boots that added a bold pop of color. Her ensemble was completed with a neutral-toned shoulder bag and a striking gold pendant necklace.

The model has been spending the week in Dubai and shared a moment on Instagram featuring an advertisement she spotted for Maison Alaia in Dubai Mall. “Casually shopping in Dubai Mall … and look who I found,” she said in the caption.

Al-Zuhair also shared a photo of herself having lunch with a friend at Al Mandaloun, a Lebanese restaurant in Dubai.


Kosas brings clean beauty to the Saudi market

Updated 23 November 2024
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Kosas brings clean beauty to the Saudi market

DUBAI: Clean beauty brand Kosas has officially entered the Saudi market, offering a range of skincare-focused makeup products.

Founded by Sheena Zadeh, Kosas, now available at Sephora Middle East, prioritizes skin-nourishing ingredients, a mission the founder feels deeply resonates with the Saudi market.

“Saudi Arabia is such a vibrant, emerging market with a rich beauty culture,” Zadeh told Arab News, adding that over the years, she has seen a growing demand from the Middle East for clean, high-performance beauty products. “Saudi Arabia is at the forefront of this trend,” she said.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by Kosas (@kosas)

“For us, it’s about more than just expansion; it’s about connecting with a culture that values authenticity, quality and a holistic approach to beauty,” Zadeh said.

In preparation for its Saudi debut, Kosas chose a range of products aligned with local beauty needs. “We curated our lineup with universal favorites and regional needs in mind,” Zadeh said.

This lineup includes bestsellers such as the Revealer Concealer, the Cloud Set Baked setting powder, and the BB Burst Tinted gel cream moisturizer.

This lineup includes bestsellers such as the Revealer Concealer. (Supplied)

“(The setting powder) helps achieve that lasting, natural matte finish ideal for the warm climate,” Zadeh said, adding that the tinted moisturizer is “perfect for those looking for lightweight hydration with coverage.”

Kosas also plans to connect with the Saudi community by staging workshops and events focused on clean beauty and skin health.

In preparation for its Saudi debut, Kosas chose a range of products aligned with local beauty needs. (Supplied)

“We’re very committed to education and empowerment in the beauty space … we believe that beauty should feel effortless and enjoyable, so our educational initiatives will focus on simple, effective ways to incorporate Kosas into daily routines. We’re really excited about this,” Zadeh said.

Zadeh said her own roots influenced Kosas’s mission: “I’m Middle Eastern myself and I’ve always felt deeply connected to the region’s beauty philosophy.

“At its core, Kosas has a holistic and layered approach that aligns with the depth and tradition of Middle Eastern beauty philosophies,” she added. “Kosas was born from a deep passion for clean beauty that’s effective, fun, and makes people feel good in their own skin. Our journey started with a desire to create makeup that doesn’t just sit on the skin but works with it.”