PARIS: A host of French-owned fashion labels spanning Christian Dior to Saint Laurent pledged Wednesday to ban ultra-thin models from their advertising and catwalk shows following criticism that the industry encourages anorexia.
French holding companies LVMH and Kering, which own dozens of top brands between them, unveiled a charter “to ensure the well-being of models” which will also outlaw the hiring of girls under the age of 16 for adult shoots or events.
In May, a French law requiring models to present a doctor’s certificate attesting to their good health was introduced to try to tackle the problem of the industry promoting thinness and unattainable beauty ideals.
The two French groups said they wanted to go beyond this requirement and would only use female models who were size 34 or over according to the French system, and men sized 44 or over.
Size 32 in France corresponds to XXS, or size 6 in Britain and size 0 in the United States.
“Respecting the dignity of all women has always been both a personal commitment for me and a priority for Kering as a group,” the company’s billionaire chairman François-Henri Pinault said in a statement.
“We hope to inspire the entire industry to follow suit, thus making a real difference in the working conditions of fashion models industry-wide,” he added.
As well as the age and size stipulations, the charter includes other measures such as banning the serving of alcohol to models under 18 and ensuring they have a guardian or chaperone present at all times.
“As the leader in the luxury sector, we believe it is our role to be at the forefront of this initiative,” said Antoine Arnault, a board member of LVMH and son of owner Bernard Arnault, in a statement.
“We have the responsibility of building new standards for fashion and we hope to be followed by other players in our sector,” he added.
Speaking to AFP, Arnault explained that some unnamed designers worked with size 32 models.
“That’s finished now, the size will be 34 and above, which is already quite small,” he said.
LVMH is a luxury goods behemoth that owns classic French brands Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Givenchy as well as other high-end European names including Fendi and Marc Jacobs.
Kering owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Saint Laurent among others.
In 2015, Saint Laurent had to withdraw a magazine advertisement in Britain over its use of of an “unhealthily thin model” and earlier this year, it caused outrage with a poster campaign around Paris.
In those pictures, a reclining woman in a fur coat and fishnet tights was pictured opening her legs, while another extremely thin model was photographed in a leotard and roller skate stilettos bending over a stool.
The head of the French advertising authority said they were part of a disturbing trend in fashion promoting “porno-chic” and the label was ordered to remove them.
French fashion giants ban ultra-thin models
French fashion giants ban ultra-thin models
Jacquemus unveils new campaign shot in Egypt
DUBAI: French fashion house Jacquemus on Wednesday unveiled its latest campaign, “La croisière,” set entirely in Egypt and captured over a 24-hour journey from Cairo to Aswan.
The campaign, shot by Egyptian photographer and director Mohamed Sherif, starred Brazilian-New Zealand model Angelina Kendall and Egyptian model Mohamed Hassan, and merged high fashion with Egypt’s historic and natural landscapes.
It features striking visuals in front of the Great Pyramid of Giza, along the Nile River, on a wooden riverside deck, and in lush farmlands surrounded by palm trees.
In the pictures and videos, Kendall was seen wearing pieces from Jacquemus’ collection, including a voluminous polka-dotted coat with exaggerated sleeves and a long train, a bold red dress, and a sculptural banana-printed two-piece ensemble, among other looks.
Meanwhile, Hassan wore an off-white suit with a relaxed fit, a yellow-and-white striped shirt tucked into wide-leg black trousers, and an all-black ensemble featuring an open-collar shirt and high-waisted trousers.
Accompanying the still images, a series of short videos that captured the journey, showcasing the scenery from Cairo to Aswan, were released on social media.
Dyson expands footprint in Saudi Arabia due to ‘increasing demand for technology’
DUBAI: Alongside a roster of new product launches, technology company Dyson is expanding in Saudi Arabia due to an “increasing demand for high-performance technology,” a spokesperson told Arab News.
In the haircare field, the recent launches of the Dyson Supersonic r™ hair dryer — smaller, lighter and more maneuverable than the original Supersonic™ hair dryer — and its limited-edition haircare colorways have made headlines in the international beauty industry. And when it comes to Saudi Arabia, the most recent opening in Jeddah’s Red Sea Mall is part of a planned slate of stores in the country with another set to open this summer.
“With Saudi’s Vision 2030 there is an increased investment in technology, retail, and infrastructure, so now is the ideal time to deepen Dyson’s presence and make our advanced engineering solutions more accessible to consumers,” the representative said, before noting the “appetite for cutting-edge solutions in the Kingdom.”
According to Dyson, customers at the brand’s stores in Riyadh, Dammam and Jeddah are looking for high performance technologies that tackle problems like air pollution and dust. Floorcare and environmental care products also resonate with customers given the environment in the region, particularly the HEPA air purifiers, according to the brand.
When it comes to hair styling, heat damage, stickiness, brittleness and crunch are issues customers are most keen to tackle, with the “Dyson Airwrap™ i.d. multi-styler and dryer quickly becoming a fan favorite for styling.”
The interest in haircare is something Dyson has taken note of in the Kingdom, with the latest store in Jeddah featuring two private styling stations and a wash basin for veiled buyers who wish to try products including the Supersonic Nural™ hair dryer, the Dyson Airstrait™ and Dyson Corrale™ cord-free straightener, among others.
“We offer personalized styling sessions at Dyson Demo Stores, where (customers) can learn how to maximize the performance of our products,” a Dyson representative explained.
Fashioning identity: Saudi designer champions tour guides as ambassadors
- Dallal Al-Juhani’s uniform concept weaves together tradition, technology
- We should showcase Saudi heritage to the world through tourism and fashion, she says
JEDDAH: In Saudi Arabia, where each region’s distinct heritage shines through its landscape and traditions, tour guides serve as vital ambassadors — and one Saudi designer believes their attire is key to embodying the cultural treasures they represent.
Dallal Al-Juhani, a fashion design faculty member at Taibah University, has developed a visionary concept for tour guide uniforms in AlUla which blends heritage with modern style.
Using technology to champion heritage, her project merges the cultural identity of AlUla with aesthetics and the functional needs of the job, highlighting Saudi identity in its finest form.
“Saudi heritage has its place and value,” she told Arab News. “We should be proud of it and showcase it to the world through the tourism and fashion sectors."
HIGHLIGHT
Dallal Al-Juhani, a fashion design faculty member at Taibah University, has developed a visionary concept for tour guide uniforms in AlUla which blends heritage with modern style.
Al-Juhani holds a bachelor’s degree in clothing and jewelry design from Taibah University, and boasts a master’s in fashion design from King Abdulaziz University.
She added: “During my studies there was a significant focus on fashion that reflects heritage, as well as the role of modern technologies in the development of the fashion industry.”
Reflecting on the inspiration behind her vision for tour guide uniforms, she said: “During my visit to AlUla in 2021 I noticed that tour guides did not have a specific uniform to stand out to visitors.
Saudi heritage has its place and value. We should be proud of it and showcase it to the world through the tourism and fashion sectors.
Dallal Al-Juhani, Saudi designer and academic
“As a fashion designer I felt compelled to find a solution to this issue by creating designs suitable for this role.”
Al-Juhani’s uniform concept reflects the rich identity of AlUla through colors, patterns, materials, and techniques, all inspired by the region’s heritage.
It serves as a visual narrative, representing the beauty of AlUla’s monuments while establishing a deep connection between the storyteller and the place itself.
She said: “Patterns were inspired from iconic locations such as Al-Hijr and Jabal Ikmah, incorporating Nabataean letters and prominent symbols such as the bull, lion, and hand.”
Functionality was a key consideration in the uniform’s design, and Al-Juhani added: “The uniform gives the tour guide a sense of belonging and comfort, leaving a positive impression on tourists, which elevates the level of professionalism in the tourism sector.”
As a young Saudi designer Al-Juhani’s message to her peers is to keep up with modern trends by utilizing new technologies in design and illustration. In fact, as part of her project, she harnessed artificial intelligence techniques to enhance her designs.
And to bring her vision to life she used AI-powered tools like Midjourney and Lexica to develop prototypes before transitioning to manual work.
She said: “I used natural leather and techniques such as burning and decoration that mimic the ancient Nabataean style. I also added traditional details using leather threads and blanket stitching to enhance the heritage touch.”
While Al-Juhani did face some challenges in sourcing high-quality materials, the input offered by tour guides made the process smoother.
She added: “I made sure to involve them in every stage to strengthen their connection to the uniform, making it a project they felt a part of rather than just a product.”
Her innovative approach has already earned her recognition, and Al-Juhani was awarded the gold medal at the London International Exhibition of Inventions and Innovations in 2024, as well as receiving special recognition from Croatia and Romania at the same event.
“It was proof that heritage and monuments give design authenticity, uniqueness, and enhance its aesthetic and expressive value,” she said.
France’s IMA launches Arab Fashion Award
- Award will celebrate ‘enormous creativity’ of Arab designers says IMA’s Philippe Castro
PARIS: The Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris has announced the launch of its Arab Fashion Award — the AFA-IMA — to promote and celebrate the rising stars of the Arab world’s fashion scene.
Since its opening in 1980, the IMA has supported Arab creativity in all its forms, including fashion. It has hosted numerous shows and exhibitions highlighting the role fashion plays at the intersection of cultures.
Philippe Castro, chief of staff of the presidency of the IMA, and the man behind the new initiative tells Arab News that “the moment seems ripe” for the launch of the award.
“We’re seeing Fashion Weeks popping up in Riyadh, Dubai, Beirut and Marrakesh. We’re seeing enormous creativity in fashion design in the (Arab) region as a whole and there is a growing appetite for these designers. They deserve our attention,” Castro says. “Christian Dior once said, ‘The air of Paris is the very air of haute couture.’ The same can be said today of the air of Riyadh, Beirut, Egypt, Morrocco and Tunisia. All these places have a long tradition of couture. Take Tunisia, for instance; it’s no coincidence that master couturier Azzedine Alaïa came from Tunisia.”
If Paris is the world capital of fashion, that is thanks in no small measure to Castro’s longtime colleague Jack Lang, president of the IMA. As Minister of Culture, it was Lang who saw the potential for fashion to become a booming industry for France. In 1982, he succeeded — in the face of a lot of pearl-clutching — in making the Cour Carrée of the Louvre and the Tuileries Gardens the principle venues of Paris’ runway shows, moving fashion front and center in public consiousness. The number of fashion shows in Paris doubled between 1980 and 1990, after which fashion was definitively established as a sector that means serious business.
“Jack Lang made fashion fashionable.” Castro says. “We’re very lucky to have him as our president. He gave an unprecedented impetus to young fashion designers in the 1980s. Having worked alongside him for many years, as a big advocate of fashion, this award seems natural and inevitable.”
Castro is a regular visitor to Saudi Arabia, where, he says, he has witnessed “an incredible evolution in fashion” over the past decade, especially in Riyadh and Jeddah.
“There is a tangible effervescence and dynamism visible with people on the streets. On my most recent visit to Riyadh, I visited concept stores selling abayas. I find the reinterpretation of the abaya and the thaub brilliantly creative,” he says. “The designers have limitless imagination; they know how to explore their own culture creatively. I was also fascinated to see superb Saudi-designed streetwear for the first time. I fell for a towelling beach robe with pockets and a hood inspired by traditional Saudi robes — pure creative genius!”
Navigating the international fashion world is a complex challenge for young international designers. Creative talent is not enough, they need experienced professional mentoring. So the IMA is partnering with the world-renowned Institut Français de la Mode (the French Fashion Institute) to help the award winners develop their professional skills in cutting, patternmaking and marketing as part of the prize.
This first edition of the AFA-IMA is deliberately fluid. Jewellery and accessory designs are also eligible for entry. The award has two categories; Emerging Talent and Innovative Talent, with an option for the jury to grant a third award to an established Arab designer. Other categories may be added as momentum grows.
“It will evolve according to the type of entries we receive and be adapted accordingly,” says Castro. “This is an haute-couture — not ready-to-wear — process.”
The award is open to designers who are nationals of Arab League countries or part of their diasporas. The jury consists of key figures from fashion, art and culture including Pascal Morand, executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode; Pascale Mussard, the founder of Hermès’ upcycled luxury brand Petit h; Lebanese fashion designers Rabih Kayrouz and Milia Maroun; Elsa Janssen, director of the Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Paris; and Manuel Arnaut, editor of Vogue Arabia.
“We composed our jury of people at the pinnacle of their profession. We always aim for excellence,” says Castro. “The members will follow the prize-winners’ progress closely. This is not a one-off. It’s a long-term initiative to showcase the region’s enormous creativity.
“We composed the jury of good friends of the IMA — a friendly needle and thread which will make dazzling embroidery. It’s a project that comes from the heart, because fashion is all about emotion. If there is no heart, there is no point,” he continues. “We are living in an era of severity, if we can diffuse some beauty into the world, so much the better for us all.”
If you need to know the price ... you can’t afford it
- Rare blue diamond valued at $20m goes on display in Abu Dhabi before auction next month
- The blue diamond will also be showcased in Taipei, Hong Kong and New York before its exhibition and sale in Geneva in mid-May
ABU DHABI: A rare blue diamond valued at $20 million went on pre-auction display on Tuesday in Abu Dhabi.
The 10-carat Mediterranean Blue, which will go on sale in Geneva next month, is the showpiece of a collection estimated at $100 million.
“Included in the group are the largest flawless diamond in the world ... the second-largest red diamond known to exist and several diamonds over 100 carats,” Sotheby’s auction house said.
The polished stones were on display in Abu Dhabi’s Saadiyat Island cultural district on Tuesday next to lavish jewelry, including a white-diamond encrusted necklace featuring a 100.26-carat pear-shaped brown diamond pendant.
The blue diamond will also be showcased in Taipei, Hong Kong and New York before its exhibition and sale in Geneva in mid-May.
“At the top of the rarity pyramid are blue diamonds,” said Quig Bruning, head of jewels for Sotheby’s in North America, Europe and the Middle East.
“Diamonds of exceptional color and size are by definition wonders of nature that seldom occur, so their presence at auctions can only be infrequent.
“Such diamonds were rarer than usual on the market in the past year or so, which makes the sale of the Mediterranean Blue an even more exciting event.”
