PARIS: Cheese is making a delicious comeback in gastronomic circles. From glorious dishes of pasta served in cheese wheels, to fresh takes on the traditional Swiss raclette — a dish of melted Alpine cheese over vegetables or charcuterie — cheesy creations are taking over social media sites and have international foodies drooling. But when it comes to serving cheese in our own homes, we often resort to tried, tested and admittedly boring staples.
So the next time you wish to impress discerning guests with a sophisticated cheese board worthy of a Michelin-star restaurant, ditch the cheddar and take the advice of experts at the Isigny Ste Mere production facility in Normandy.
The dairy cooperative is famous for its cream, cheese and butter, and is located in the dairy heartland of France, known for its rolling green pastures and herds of wandering cows. Arab News toured the facility to find out more about how the cheese is made and how it is best served.
Normandy is widely celebrated as the dairy capital of both France and Europe, and boasts a clutch of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheeses, a status that is awarded by the EU and is only achieved when cheese is made the traditional way using top-quality ingredients sourced from farms in a particular area.
So if you are a cheese lover and want to learn more, read on for a guide on which cheeses to serve up at your next soiree. If you wish to host the ultimate cheese-tasting party, a top tip is to cleanse your palette with water, bread or a sweet apple between cheeses, according to award-winning cheese-monger Francois Robin, who is one of only 22 “Meilleurs Ouvrier de France” in the cheese category.
Camembert
Perfect for dipping, camembert is a popular pre-dinner snack, and can be baked in the oven until it is gooey and hot. Simply pierce the top of the cheese with a sharp knife and slide pieces of garlic and thyme into the small slits. Place the cheese on a baking tray in its box and drizzle over with olive oil, cook at 200 degrees Fahrenheit until the center is perfectly melted, and scoop up the cheese with vegetable sticks on crackers.
At the Isigny Ste Mere facility, the unpasteurized milk that goes on to become PDO Normandy camembert is heated in vats and then seeded with lactic cultures and rennet. The rennet curdles the milk before the molds are filled, layer by layer, by hand or with a mechanical ladle, in a humid room beset with a maze of pipes. Each layer rests for 45 minutes before the next layer is added, ensuring the cheese is supple.
The camembert is then salted and put to rest in a well-ventilated, cold room called a hâloir, where it ripens for 12 days. It is then packed into wooden boxes and continues to ripen, with four weeks considered the full ripening period for a round of camembert. At this stage, it is gooey and creamy all the way through, as opposed to the chalky centers of a camembert that has only ripened for two weeks.
Pont l’Evèque
Pont l’evèque is a subtle, soft rind cheese that matches perfectly with camembert, but can be differentiated due to its square shape. You will notice a faint whiff of hazelnuts when you enjoy this particular cheese, best served with dried figs and freshly made bread.
It is one of the oldest French cheeses still in production, and can be traced back to the 12th century, when it was called d’Angelot. In the 17th century, the name was changed to reflect the village in which it was made, Pont l’Evèque in Normandy.
At the Isigny Ste Mere facility, which produces a PDO pont l’evèque, milk is heated and rennet is added to coagulate it before the curd is cut and the whey is drained off. The product is left in molds for four days and salted on the fifth, before being washed in salt water on the seventh day. The cheese is then left to ripen in the hâloir for anywhere between 13 days and six weeks.
Mimolette
If you are looking to liven up your cheese board with a wild card, a strong, hardy mimolette is the way to go. This cannonball-like hard cheese is a shocking orange color and has a sweet, almost caramelized taste with a fudgy finish.
The electric color is due to the use of fruit from the Central American anatto tree in the production process. The hue was chosen by King Louis XIV in the 18th century to distinguish French cheeses from Dutch products, according to the Isigny Ste Mere tour guide. This cheese is best served with date syrup and fresh bread or a sweet onion relish, and can also be sprinkled over a green salad.
The mimolette at Isigny Ste Mere, which was awarded the coveted label rouge sticker signifying high quality, is made with milk that is then heated and seeded with lactic cultures to develop the flavor. Rennet is added, followed by a natural coloring agent from the anatto fruit. The resulting curd is cut, allowing the whey to drain off, and then pressed and cut into cubes. After this, it is placed into cloth-lined molds before being pressed for a second time.
At this stage, the cheese takes on its distinct final spherical shape, and is placed in a saline bath for 72 hours before it heads to the curing chamber, where it develops a thin layer of mold. This cheese is not for the fainthearted, as the fine coat of mold is typically burrowed into by cheese mites. These creatures take off the layer of mold and give the cheese its finished look.
Perfect your cheese platter with tips from France’s dairy heartland
Perfect your cheese platter with tips from France’s dairy heartland
Where We Are Going Today: ‘The Door’ restaurant in Riyadh
- Scallops and an accompanying sauce were also good, and the smoked baba ghanouj was particularly memorable
The Door restaurant in Riyadh has a cozy atmosphere that enhances the overall dining experience for food lovers.
We started with the lemon garlic pasta, which was bursting with flavor. A beef burger, topped with caramelized onion, was delicious, but the large serving may be too much for some. Fried cauliflower with sauce is also a standout dish.
We also tried the duck pate, which was elegantly served on a wooden spoon, and garnished with pistachios and raspberry preserves — a true treat.
Scallops and an accompanying sauce were also good, and the smoked baba ghanouj was particularly memorable.
The glazed shrimp was soft and perfectly cooked, although some may find the sauce a bit overpowering. However, the mushroom steak that I ordered medium-well arrived well done, and the chicken skewers we tried were not very impressive.
Pricing is reasonable. We spent only SR109 (roughly $29) for two. Service is excellent, with meals arriving within minutes, and the staff are friendly and attentive.
The Door is a small venue with limited seating, so booking is essential. The casual and relaxed ambiance makes it an ideal spot to enjoy a good meal.
Recipes for Success: Chef Davisha Burrowes offers advice and a tasty recipe
RIYADH: The Mediterranean dining venue The Lighthouse, founded in the UAE, recently opened its first Saudi outpost in Riyadh’s Diplomatic Quarter.
“I like to describe the Lighthouse menu as a celebration of fresh and seasonal ingredients that represent the Mediterranean culturally as a whole,” says its executive chef Davisha Burrowes. “I think it’s a perfect balance between East and West.”
Burrowes — who grew up in Barbados — caught the culinary bug early.
“I was around nine years old when I started cooking,” she says. “And that just grew around the age of 14 or 15. I did a few competitions in Barbados, and from there, I took my degree in culinary arts, worked around the world in different cuisines, then finally landed with the Lighthouse.”
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
I think all young chefs tend to seek perfection. I was definitely overthinking the little things. And when you overthink, you tend to overcomplicate and overseason. and throughout the years, with growth from maturing as a chef, I will tell anyone that lasts this morning.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
Experiment. Don’t be afraid to try new things — new flavors, new blends. Go with the flow a little bit, and don’t be so hard on yourself. Some of the best recipes, by a lot of chefs around the world, have been born through mistakes.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish? And why?
Probably a fresh squeeze of lemon. It brightens, it lifts, it cuts through very rich flavors as well. But personally, I think the best ingredient you can put in a dish is love, cooking with your heart, with your passion, just enjoying it and giving respect to each ingredient, whether it’s something as humble as an onion or a piece of foie gras.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
It depends. If I go to somewhere casual, you know, I take it for what it is. I manage my expectations. I also work within hospitality, so I know there can be certain challenges within the back of house and within the operation. But if I’m going somewhere where I have high expectations, then I hold them to a certain level.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
I love Japanese cuisine. I worked in Japanese cuisine for two years, so I love a good selection of Nigiri platter. It needs precision, but it’s very, very simple.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
I love cooking spaghetti carbonara. It has very few ingredients, it takes minimal effort, but it also has its intricacies.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
If time’s not a factor, then it’s a barbecue. Going back to my roots, I’m from the Caribbean, and we do a lot of barbecue — it’s always summer in the Caribbean, so we do a lot of cooking outdoors. So, definitely a barbecue feast or a grazing plate.
What customer behavior most annoys you?
I wouldn’t say it necessarily “annoys” me, but I do get a little disappointed when some ingredients are swapped out of dishes — especially ingredients that are essential to the harmony of the dish. As chefs, we spend a lot of time curating dishes, making sure the flavors are balanced, so when ingredients are swapped out, it just changes the whole experience that we’re trying to offer.
As a leader, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laid back?
I prefer to inspire rather than intimidate. I’m very hands-on in the kitchen. I like to lead by example. I think that as a chef — or as a leader in any field — it’s important that the team see you do it, so they can have the encouragement to do it on their own.
Chef Davisha’s charred aubergine with labneh and hot honey harissa
(Serves 2)
Ingredients:
For the Charred Aubergine:
1 large eggplant (aubergine)
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp labneh (or see Labneh Mix below)
1 tbsp hot honey harissa (see Hot Honey Harissa below)
1 tsp toasted pine nuts
A few fresh chives, finely chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
For the Labneh Mix (optional, for a more flavorful labneh):
60g labneh
0g Greek yogurt
Pinch of table salt
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
For the Hot Honey Harissa:
20g butter
10g olive oil
3g harissa paste (or more for extra heat)
1g crushed chili flakes
5g smoked paprika
10g honey
INSTRUCTIONS:
Char the Aubergine: Preheat a grill pan or BBQ to high heat. Brush the aubergine halves with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Place cut-side down on the hot grill and cook until charred and softened (about 6-8 minutes per side). For a true smoky flavor, roast directly over a gas flame or in a preheated oven at 220°C for 20 minutes.
Prepare the Labneh Mix (optional): In a bowl, whisk together labneh, Greek yogurt, salt, and lemon juice. Adjust seasoning to taste.
Make Hot Honey Harissa: In a small saucepan, melt the butter and olive oil over medium heat.
Add the harissa paste, chili flakes, smoked paprika, and honey. Stir well and cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Remove from heat.
Assemble: Place the charred aubergine on a serving plate. Dollop with labneh (or labneh mix), drizzle generously with hot honey harissa, and scatter toasted pine nuts and chopped chives on top.
At-home tips
Labneh Substitute: If you don’t have labneh, use thick Greek yogurt, strained through a cheesecloth or coffee filter for a few hours to mimic labneh’s rich texture.
Char at Home: If you don’t have a grill, broil the aubergine in your oven or cook it in a cast-iron pan to achieve a similar smoky effect.
Harissa Hack: No harissa paste? Mix 1 tbsp tomato paste with 1 tsp chili flakes, ½ tsp cumin, and a pinch of smoked paprika for a quick substitute.
Honey Choices: Use mild, floral honey for a more balanced sauce or a spicy honey to really turn up the heat.
Where We Are Going Today: Korean Palace Restaurant in Riyadh
- The cheese tteokbokki came bubbling in a hot stone bowl, spicy and rich, with gooey cheese melting into the sweet chili sauce
Tucked away on Al-Takhassusi Street, Korean Palace is one of Riyadh’s oldest spots for Korean cuisine, and a nostalgic throwback for those who value flavor over flash.
It’s visibly dated, with worn interiors and a lingering scent that suggests it could benefit from a deep renovation. Still, what it lacks in ambiance, it more than makes up for in taste.
We started with complimentary Korean sides, pickled radish, kimchi, and marinated greens, a generous and flavorful tradition that sets the tone. Then came a table full of classics, each arriving surprisingly fast.
The highlight of the evening? The transparent glass noodles, chewy, perfectly seasoned, and bursting with umami. This was hands down the best dish, and one I’d return for.
The cheese tteokbokki came bubbling in a hot stone bowl, spicy and rich, with gooey cheese melting into the sweet chili sauce.
We also ordered the bibimbap, served hot with colorful vegetables and beef, and the beef sizzling plate, which was tender and satisfying.
The dumplings, delicately wrapped in cabbage leaves, were comforting but mild. The only miss was the tofu soup, which fell flat in flavor and didn’t deliver the depth I expected.
Despite the outdated setting, the overall food quality was impressive. It’s a place that reminds you why people still queue up for spots like this, for food that feels home-cooked, unapologetically traditional, and generously portioned.
Don’t come expecting a trendy hangout. Come for hearty Korean food that gets the job done.
Where We Are Going Today: Past Nine cafe
- Past Nine cafe is highly recommended for its cozy vibe, delicious coffee and engaging events
Nestled in the Al-Nahdha district of Jeddah, Past Nine cafe has quickly become a local favorite, combining great food, excellent coffee and a vibrant but easygoing atmosphere.
One of the standout features of Past Nine is its diverse menu. The hibiscus juice is refreshingly tangy and perfect for a hot day, while the waffles are crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside.
I had a V60 coffee and a Matilda cake, which was a delightful combination.
While the laid-back vibe — including lots of comfy couches — is ideal for those working remotely, the cafe also hosts regular performances by local bands, enhancing its appeal as a social hub.
There are also board game nights featuring established favorites like Jenga and Monopoly, while those who like their fun a little more high-tech can take advantage of the PS5 consoles.
Upstairs is a dedicated area for smokers.
Past Nine cafe is highly recommended for its cozy vibe, delicious coffee and engaging events. It also offers discounts for occasions like Founding Day and National Day.
If you’re looking for a place to relax, work or enjoy some live music, this place is definitely worth a visit.
Recipes for success: Chef Vincenzo Palermo offers advice and a spaghetti al pomodoro recipe
DUBAI: Vincenzo Palermo, head pizza chef at TOTO Dubai, has built his career on one belief: “Pizza isn’t just comfort food, it’s a craft.”
Originally from Apulia in southern Italy, Palermo has spent years refining his skills. His journey began early, watching the baking process in his family kitchen as a child. He went on to study at Rome’s API Pizza Academy.
Over the past 14 years, his career has taken him from Italy to Russia, France, the US and now the UAE, with his pizzas earning international recognition and awards along the way — including a historic win as the youngest-ever World Champion of Neapolitan Pizza in 2018.
When you started out, what was the most common mistake you made?
I believed that cooking was just about combining ingredients correctly and adhering strictly to techniques. My focus was on the mechanical aspects of executing everything “correctly,” but I didn’t always bring myself into the dish; that was my biggest mistake.
Coming from a family where food was never just food — it was tradition, emotion, and memory — I learned discipline and focus. Over time, I realized that every dish must tell a story. It could be a childhood memory, a moment of celebration, or simply a feeling you want to share, but if you do not put your heart into it, then no matter how perfect the dish appears, it lacks soul.
The kitchen is not just about skill and technique, it’s a place for passion. Food is a language, and love is the message. That is what I try to pass on now, both to my team and on every plate that leaves the kitchen.
What’s your top tip for amateur chefs?
My journey began in a very humble way. I was just a child when I first stepped into the kitchen, helping my mother, making my first pizzas and simple pastas with curiosity and joy. That passion never left me. So, my top tip is this: Do not underestimate yourself just because you are cooking at home. Get into the flow, cook with heart and love, and do not place limits on what you think is possible. Everything we create in a professional kitchen, even the most refined dishes, can absolutely be recreated at home with the right mindset. Cooking is mostly about emotion, not technique, and that emotion can be felt whether you’re in a Michelin-level kitchen or your own. Believe in your hands, trust your ingredients, and enjoy the process.
What one ingredient can instantly improve any dish?
I’d say flour. The right flour for the right dish is absolutely essential. In Italy, we don’t just say “flour,” we talk about “tipo 00,” “semola rimacinata,” “integrale”… Each type of flour has a specific purpose, and choosing the right one shows respect for the dish and the tradition behind it. Using the right flour is like choosing the right language to express yourself. It’s the base of everything, the foundation. Even for home cooks, this choice can make the difference between something good and something truly authentic.
When you go out to eat, do you find yourself critiquing the food?
As a chef, it is natural to notice the details, but I try to approach it with an open mind.
What’s the most common mistake or issue you find in other restaurants?
A lack of authenticity and a disconnect between the dish and its cultural roots. Authenticity and consistency are key, and when they’re missing, it affects the overall experience.
When you go out to eat, what’s your favorite cuisine or dish to order?
Honestly, I love to try everything. For me, eating out is about enjoying food and learning. Every culture has its own traditions, techniques and flavors, and I want to understand the story behind each dish.
I’m always curious. I taste something new, study it, and then think about how that ingredient or idea could inspire something in my own kitchen. That is how we grow as chefs — by keeping our minds open and constantly learning from others.
What’s your go-to dish if you have to cook something quickly at home?
Without a doubt, it’s spaghetti al pomodoro. What could be more Italian than that? It is full of soul. I love it because it represents everything I believe in: simplicity, quality and passion. When I cook it at home, even if I’m short on time, I give it my full attention, from choosing the best tomatoes and olive oil to making sure the Gragnano pasta is cooked perfectly al dente, which is non-negotiable.
What customer request most annoys you?
Requests that compromise the integrity of a traditional dish can be challenging. While I fully respect dietary restrictions and personal preferences, altering a classic recipe beyond recognition takes away from its authenticity. I believe in educating diners about the origins and significance of each dish to foster greater appreciation and respect.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
Pizza. It’s more than just my profession, it’s a piece of my heart. I have a vivid memory from my childhood: my mother and sister in our home kitchen, cooking pizza in a pan. Of course, it was not the “right” way by traditional standards — she was not a trained chef, she was a home cook — but, like many Italian mothers, she found her own way to make something special with what she had.
Even if the technique was not perfect, the love and passion she put into it made it unforgettable. Sometimes my sister would join her, and for me, that pan pizza became a symbol of family, comfort and creativity. Pizza means everything to me because of what it represents: love, family and the joy of making something beautiful from the heart.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to get right?
For me, it’s fish. It may seem simple, but it’s not easy to cook perfectly. Fish is delicate. You must respect the texture, the temperature and the timing. One second too much, and it’s dry. One second too little, and it’s raw. I always need to stay focused and keep learning. That challenge is part of what makes it so rewarding when you get it just right.
As a head chef, what are you like? Are you a disciplinarian? Or are you more laidback?
Honestly, I can’t stand chefs who shout. We’ve seen it too many times in movies and on TV: the angry chef screaming, throwing pans, creating fear in the kitchen. Unfortunately, this happens in a lot of kitchens. But this is not leadership. This is not how great food is made. The kitchen is not a battlefield, and the people around me are not soldiers or slaves — they are humans, artists, professionals. As any of my team will tell you, I’m calm; I like to joke, and I create a relaxed environment. That doesn’t mean we’re not serious. When it’s time to push, I push. But we push together — fast, sharp, focused — as a team. Respect is the true foundation of a great kitchen. When people feel valued and inspired, not afraid, they cook with love. And that love is what reaches the plate.
Chef Vincenzo Palermo’s spaghetti al pomodoro recipe
Ingredients:
200 gr spaghetti from gragnano
300 gr San Marzano peeled tomato
Fresh basil
2 cloves of garlic
Salt
Pepper
4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
Parmesan cheese
Instructions:
In a pan, gently sauté crushed garlic in olive oil.
Add the tomatoes and let cook for about 10–15 minutes and add salt and pepper.
In a pot, put water and salt and make it boil.
Boil spaghetti until al dente, then transfer it to the sauce with a bit of cooking water.
Toss everything together and finish with fresh basil and a drizzle of olive oil.
Serve it with a gentle parmesan cheese on the top.
Buon appetito!
