Outspoken musician Souad Massi is no stranger to ‘singing’ her mind

Souad Massi
Updated 29 January 2018
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Outspoken musician Souad Massi is no stranger to ‘singing’ her mind

DUBAI: Souad Massi was an icon of the “Arab alternative” music scene long before that much-in-vogue tag had been coined. The Algerian artist might have found sudden international success after moving to France at the turn of the millennium, but the more enduring inspiration her example offers has been felt deepest closer to home. Widely touted as the “most successful” female singer-songwriter to emerge from the Arabic-speaking world, Massi’s image as a fearless, political, headstrong-but-sensitive, guitar-touting woman has conjured up a heroic figure for a generation of marginalized musicians and fans alike.

Yet in person Massi appears remarkably humbled by her own reputation, warmly taking stock of 15 years in the limelight – and worrying she has been “too open” on her upcoming sixth album. Speaking in a mix of broken English, and in Arabic through a translator, the 45-year-old is endlessly patient during inevitable communication breakdowns. Even in translation, her turn of phrase is often profound and potently poetic.

“I’ve always been torn between the past and the future,” she says, an appropriate explanation for a life lived in constant cultural flux between two continents. “So that’s what I would like to learn – to be more present in the present.”

It is an understandable affliction — the present has not always been kind to Massi. The oft-quoted origins story states she fled Algeria after suffering death threats for singing political songs with her rock band Atakor, a migration which led her to France and fame.

Born to a large, poor family of Berber descent, Massi’s brothers encouraged her to play music from a young age, a fact not always welcomed by Algiers’ conservative population. “We loved music in my own family,” she remembers. “But in the society, it was very hard – the mentality… there’s such a stigma attached to being a woman and playing music.”

Bolstered by fraternal support, in her early twenties Massi joined the Western-influenced, politically outspoken Atakor, who were both feted and vilified throughout the Algerian Civil War, which broke out in 1991. There exist widespread reports that Massi cut her hair and dressed up to continue performing as if a man – when the disguise failed, she was frequently spat at and insulted. Then came the death threats.

But contrary to popular legend, Massi maintains today that her flight north had nothing to do with the prejudice of her fellow countrymen. “I never left because I was afraid of anything in Algeria – during the civil war I still sang, I didn’t care,” she says.

Atakor folded after seven years on the road, but an invitation to play at the 1999 Femmes d’Algerie concert in Paris brought Massi to Europe as a solo artist, where her spirited performance floored record company executives and she was promptly signed. The rest, as they say, is history. “For me, I was just passing through France,” she says, seemingly still puzzled by the chain of events today. “It all happened so quickly after that.”

Dividing her time between France and Algeria, Massi still calls Paris home, yet it was the initial culture shock of emigration which gave birth to her distinctive sound. Raised on American rock and country, she never had much time for traditional Arabic music growing up, but arriving in the unfamiliar environment prompted a pivotal reassessment of her cultural lineage. “It took me a few years of being in Europe to realize I needed to get back in touch with my origins, my roots,” says Massi.
Souad Massi - Rani Rayha

For debut album “Raoui” she brought in oud, gumbri and traditional North African percussion, subtly framing her strummed Spanish guitar and yearning vocals with exotic ornamentations and desert-worn rhythms. It was to prove a career-making resolution – sung in a mix of Arabic and French, Raoui became a surprise international hit following its 2001 release, marketed in the then-emerging “world music” bracket. To this day, Massi’s best work remains a quixotic blur of Eastern and Western sensibilities, seamlessly segueing folk-rock song-writing with regional traditions.

Raoui – translated as Storyteller – was followed two years later by the more confessional “Deb” (Heartbroken) and then 2005’s “Mesk Elil” (Honeysuckle). Paul Weller turned up as a surprise guest on 2010’s “Ô Houria” – the result of a frantic session in which an entire song was written and recorded in a single day at the British rock icon’s London studio. “I thought it was just a [social] meeting and he said, ‘okay, we’re going to do a song now’ – really just like that,” she remembers. “I said, ‘I don’t know, I’m not ready, I don’t write...’. He gave me a pen and paper, and said ‘take one hour’.” A translator was on hand to put Massi’s words into English for the off-the-cuff duet.

After time out for childrearing, Massi emerged reenergized with fifth album “El Mutakallimun” (Masters of the Word), in which she pointedly put to music Arabic poetry from across the ages – from sixth century poet Zuhayr Ibn Abî Sulmâ to contemporary politicized pieces by Iraqi poet Ahmed Matar. Released in 2015, the album took more than two years to complete. “I took time, because I needed time to live,” she says. “Time to be sad, to be happy, to cry – to have a story to tell I’ve actually lived.”

The wait until Massi’s next release is likely to be substantially shorter, with work nearly complete on a follow-up. But writing her own lyrics again this time around, the songwriter was already anxious her newer work might be sharing too much with her audience and says her sonic approach echoes that of Deb.

“I share a lot of personal things (in the new songs) and I’m not very happy about it right now,” she says. “Your mentality, what you have to say in your twenties is different to your thirties, your forties, I feel I’ve matured over time in my thinking, and thus in my lyrics, what I’m trying to communicate to people.

“Now, sometimes when I listen to my old music, which I knew at the time wasn’t ready to go out yet – it bothers me. What I’m trying to teach myself now is to give everything – as much time as humanly possible, so 20 years in the future when I hear it again, I won’t be angry that I didn’t give it enough time.

“The day I have nothing left to say to people is the day I stop singing – up until this point, I have a lot that I want to say, to share – so I will continue singing.”

Souad Massi - Mesk Elil


Meet Reman Assere, Saudi Arabia’s youngest Arabic calligraphy instructor

Updated 08 November 2024
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Meet Reman Assere, Saudi Arabia’s youngest Arabic calligraphy instructor

  • She became the youngest certified instructor at the age of just 11
  • Assere now tutors students of all ages

MAKKAH: After qualifying at just 11 years old, Reman Assere officially became Saudi Arabia’s youngest calligraphy instructor.

Her journey started in fifth grade, sparked by a school activity. She began with basic exercises but, with continuous practice and self-learning through platforms such as YouTube, she steadily refined her skills.

Arabic calligraphy is celebrated for its variety of styles, including Kufic, Naskh, Thuluth, Diwani, and Ruq’ah, each with a unique character and distinct lettering technique. (Supplied)

Her ambitions and her love of the art drove her to undertake professional training in Kufic calligraphy, believed to be the earliest example of a universal style of Arabic calligraphy. Once qualified, she was registered on the Ministry of Culture’s official platform, Al-Khattat.

What truly set her apart and caught people’s attention was her relentless dedication to learning. Even during vacations, she practiced tirelessly, seeking out special events and connecting with other calligraphers.

FASTFACT

Reman Assere’s ambitions and her love of the art drove her to undertake professional training in Kufic calligraphy.

Now aged 15, Assere told Arab News that her professional training was carried out under the guidance Shurooq Al-Harbi. She also highlighted the pivotal role played in her development by Prof. Siraj Al-Omari, whose ongoing support and encouragement were instrumental.

Today, Assere has become proficient in both in writing and teaching Kufic calligraphy and is expanding her expertise to include the Diwani style.

Reman Assere

However, her journey has been far from easy. A lack of calligraphy institutes in her native region of Abha posed considerable challenges and meant she had to rely on online courses or travel to other cities.

It was worth it, however. Her numerous awards include first place in the 2023 Cultural Skills Competition and the Ministry of Education’s National Olympiad for Arabic Calligraphy. She has also demonstrated her talents at prominent events, such as the Layalina Festival in Wadi Al-Dawasir and the Abha Shopping and Entertainment Festival.

Arabic calligraphy is celebrated for its variety of styles, including Kufic, Naskh, Thuluth, Diwani, and Ruq’ah, each with a unique character and distinct lettering technique. (Supplied)

Assere has also led courses at the Holy Mosque Library in Makkah and organized calligraphy workshops in schools.

Today, she is recognized as one of the most influential trainers in Arabic calligraphy, teaching across all age groups. She takes pride in seeing her students compete in calligraphy competitions, a testament to the success of her approach and teaching methods.

Reman Assere has become proficient in both in writing and teaching Kufic calligraphy and is expanding her expertise to include the Diwani style. (Supplied)

Even in an age of rapid technological advancements, Assere is confident that calligraphy’s unique beauty will endure. She believes the future is bright for students and trainees, as the art of calligraphy continues to inspire and cultivate creativity.

She explained how the beauty of Arabic calligraphy is in the balance and harmony of its letters, with fluid lines that interlace. For Assere, Arabic calligraphy not only captures the essence and grace of the Arabic language, but it also allows the writer to convey thoughts and emotions.

Arabic calligraphy is celebrated for its variety of styles, including Kufic, Naskh, Thuluth, Diwani, and Ruq’ah, each with a unique character and distinct lettering technique. Rooted in precise geometric principles, Arabic calligraphy achieves a harmonious visual balance, allowing for flexibility in letter formation, overlapping designs, and intricate decorative motifs.

Assere said: “The beauty of Arabic calligraphy extends beyond writing; it is a visual art that enhances both artworks and decorations. Over time, it has become a cultural symbol that embodies Arab and Islamic identity.”

 

 


Ancient Italian masterpieces arrive in AlUla for first regional exhibit at Maraya

Updated 08 November 2024
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Ancient Italian masterpieces arrive in AlUla for first regional exhibit at Maraya

DUBAI: The Royal Commission for AlUla has partnered with the National Archaeological Museum of Naples to bring ancient masterpieces from its renowned collection to Saudi Arabia and the region for the first time.

The agreement between RCU and MANN will facilitate the transport of a curated collection of artifacts from Naples to AlUla for the “Masterpieces of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples” exhibit.

Statuette of Alexander on horseback Herculaneum, 1st century BCE Bronze. (Supplied)

This exhibit, a highlight of AlUla’s 2024 Ancient Kingdoms Festival, is on display at Maraya, the world’s largest mirrored building, until Dec. 14.

Fifteen masterpieces from ancient sites such as Pompeii, Herculaneum and Rome are being presented to a regional audience for the first time, marking a historic debut outside Italy. 

The Nilotic Mosaic, displayed abroad only once before in Japan, will also be featured. 

Statue of Trajan Minturno, late 1st century CE Marble. (Supplied)

Abdulrahman Al-Suhaibani, vice president of culture at the RCU, said: “The National Archaeological Museum of Naples is a repository of masterpieces that reveal the wonders and richly interconnected stories that helped shaped the ancient world — key among them are Nabataean artifacts including alters and inscriptions dedicated to the Nabataean chief deity Dushares that show the extent of that civilization, from AlUla in northwest Arabia to the shores of southern Europe.”

“It’s a privilege for RCU to host the masterpieces of the National Archaeological Museum of Naples exhibit and to display its wonderful collection of ancient artifacts for the first time in the region as we build toward an exciting calendar of cultural events, including the AlUla World Archaeological Symposium and the Ancient Kingdom’s Festival,” he said. 


Michael Buble to perform in Abu Dhabi

Updated 08 November 2024
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Michael Buble to perform in Abu Dhabi

DUBAI: Globally acclaimed artist Michael Buble will perform in Abu Dhabi on Jan. 16, 2025, during the second edition of Saadiyat Nights.

The Canadian singer-songwriter joins an impressive lineup for the three-month outdoor concert series.

The performers include pop icon Robbie Williams on Dec. 28, Iranian music legend Ebi on Jan. 4, American vocal harmony group Boyz II Men on Jan. 25, Egypt’s renowned composer Omar Khairat on Feb. 1, and US pop sensation Christina Aguilera on Feb. 15.

Buble, celebrated for his signature blend of swing and jazz, has delighted fans around the world with hits including “Home,” “Sway,” and his rendition of “Feeling Good.”

The Grammy Award-winning artist has sold over 75 million albums globally, making his upcoming performance a highly anticipated event.

 

 


Saudi artist Fatimah Al-Nemer discusses her female-centric works and the ‘universe within’ Arab women

Updated 08 November 2024
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Saudi artist Fatimah Al-Nemer discusses her female-centric works and the ‘universe within’ Arab women

DUBAI: Saudi artist Fatimah Al-Nemer has devoted herself to depicting narratives of women through her multimedia art, which merges collage, photography and tapestry. From childhood, her life was shaped by the female presence, she says, whether that meant family members or characters in legends.  

Al-Nemer comes from Al-Qatif in the Eastern Province, one of the oldest cities in the Kingdom. “Imagine,” she says, “it’s an area that existed 600 years before Jesus.” She now lives on Tarout Island just off the coast of Al-Qatif. The island’s name is possibly derived from Ishtar, the Mesopotamian goddess of love and war — it was here that she was expelled, abandoned by her community.  

“Color of Life.” (Supplied)

Al-Nemer claims that every household in her hometown holds some form of artist within its walls. “Al-Qatif’s rich cultural history affected us all,” she says. “It was a magical city, attracting tradespeople from Persia and Anatolia. We grew up with these stories.”  

Her mother, who had an eye for design, was her earliest supporter. She provided her daughter with art materials and didn’t even scold her for painting on the walls of their family home. “She even paid for my art classes,” Al-Nemer says. “She always called me the artist of the family. If my mother wasn’t by my side, it would have been impossible for me to become an artist.”  

For the young Al-Nemer, drawing and painting was her only outlet for self-expression. “As a child, I was fearful and endured social anxiety, so I would only express myself through art,” she says. “It boosted my confidence. I used to draw on walls and on paper. If I was sad or happy, I would draw about what was making me feel that way. I was impacted by art and it became a language for me.”  

Al-Nemer with “Malak,” one of her works. (Supplied)

By the time she was 18, Al-Nemer had shifted from taking art classes to teaching them, and had already participated in some exhibitions. She also worked as a jewelry designer in a gold factory. And in 2009 she took the decision to travel abroad to further her studies. 

She went to Jordan, where she enrolled as an interior design student at the Philadelphia University in Amman, exposing herself to a cultural openness offered by the capital city.  

“In Jordan, people were highly cultured. Its environment was rich with artists and poets. You’re not just studying art there, you’re also going to the theater. I even performed there,” she says. 

In the early days of her art career, Al-Nemer experimented with oil paintings and charcoal, depicting classical, surrealistic and symbolist scenes. At one point, she was solely making self-portraits, which she says caused some issues with family members and others, particularly when they were published in magazines and newspapers.  

“Gold.” (Supplied)

“I think I was saying: ‘I am Fatimah. Accept me for who I am. I am an artist and I represent this identity and my culture and I am proud of it,’” she explains.  

Eventually, though, she expanded her focus to include women other than herself. She has been inspired by personal stories from fellow Saudi women. “I used to listen and live their stories as if I was the heroine of their tales,” she says. 

In her large, detailed, carpet-like artworks, which are full of ornamentation and native cultural symbols, she pays tribute to Saudi and Arab women, adorned in traditional attire while holding objects related to her homeland, such as a musical instrument or an incense burner. They reflect her attachment to her roots.

“Princess of the North 1.” (Supplied)

“I try to embody the Arab woman with certain admirable qualities. She is the butterfly, the mother, the sister, the doctor. She is the giver,” says Al-Nemer. “She is not just a figure; there is a universe within her. It is like a letter of appreciation for all that she stands for and has given to society.”   

She also treats these images, which she started making nearly a decade ago, as research-like documentation of traditional Saudi dress and cultural symbolism, focusing on specific areas of the Kingdom (beginning, of course, with her own hometown).  

Often, she depicts women with their mouths or eyes covered. In part, this is to encourage viewers to focus on the details surrounding the women in her portraits, but it also reflects some of the creative limitations she experienced when younger, when it was frowned upon to make figurative art in the Kingdom. Now, however, as Saudi Arabia opens up, she feels more free in her practice.  

“As artists, our lives have changed 180 degrees,” she says of the current Saudi cultural scene. “Art has become more than a profession.”  


Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka 

Updated 08 November 2024
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Off the beaten track in Sri Lanka 

  • New visa rules have made it easier than ever for Gulf tourists to visit the island nation 

TORONTO: Sri Lanka has long been a favored destination for visitors from the Gulf. Easy access, budget-friendly offerings, and diverse experiences – from cultural and historic landmarks to idyllic beach resorts and scenic treks – make it an ideal getaway destination. And now, there’s one more reason for Saudis to take a trip to the island nation. Last month, the Sri Lankan government announced that residents of Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Qatar, Oman, and 31 other countries can now visit without a visa.  

The capital, Colombo, is probably the most popular destination in Sri Lanka, along with Kandy and Ella, but the less-frequented areas in the central and southern regions of the country are well worth considering.  

The Summerville Bungalow in Hatton. (Supplied)

My Sri Lanka trip started in Hatton, in the Nuwara Eliya region. Often called “Little England,” the region is a reminder of the country’s former colonial rule, with Tudor-style architecture and sprawling tea estates named after their former British proprietors.  

The central province is home to Sri Lanka’s renowned tea highlands. Tea is an integral part of the island’s history and culture — as its former name, Ceylon, suggests. 

My encounter with Ceylon tea starts at the Dunkeld Tea Factory, owned by The Dilmah Group, a family-run business that has become a global name. The tea is single-origin — meaning it is picked, cultivated, and packed from the lush, rolling terraces of the region. The tour takes guests through the history of Ceylon tea, which actually began with coffee plantations in the 18th century. But leaf disease devastated those plantations, leading to the demise of the short-lived coffee industry in Sri Lanka. In 1867, James Taylor, a Scottish man, planted the first tea clearing in Kandy. By the late 19th century, the country had become one of the largest tea producers in the world. Guests are also invited to a tea-tasting experience, including the Orange Pekoe, the robust tea blend that is a specialty of the region. 

The terraces of a tea plantation around the Ceylon Tea Trail. (Supplied)

I stayed at Summerville, one of the five palatial bungalows once home to English plantation owners which have now been refurbished into boutique properties by the Ceylon Tea Trails Hotel under the Resplendent Ceylon Group. Perched at nearly 4,000 feet and set across 2,000 hectares, the bungalows are perfect for those seeking a slow, luxurious vacation. Guests can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the emerald hilltops from various vantage points or unwind in the several tranquil lounge spaces scattered throughout the bungalows. Or — with a private chef and butler on hand — choose to indulge in a five-course dinner that features the likes of a Yatawatte tea-infused roasted chicken or the Earl Gray fondant. 

The tea trails, ranging from four to 15 kilometers long, connect the various bungalows, offering scenic hikes through the valleys. For those seeking adventure, the newly-inaugurated Pekoe Trail (a 300-km route with 22 phases) allows tourists to explore the rich biodiversity of the area. This trail can be experienced on foot or by rail. 

The Wild Coast Tented Lodge in Sri Lanka. (Supplied)

The next leg of my trip was drastically different. As we were making our way down from the central region to Sri Lanka’s southern tip, the hilltops, winding roads, and cool weather gave way to palm trees, speedy tuk-tuks, and tropical weather. 

In the Hambantota district, the biggest draw is undoubtedly Yala National Park, the second largest national park of the country, and the one with the highest density of leopards. An early morning or afternoon game drive provides ample opportunities to spot wildlife, including the elusive leopard, sloth bears, and elephants.  

After the adrenaline rush of a wildlife safari, I head to our ‘glamping’ lodge — the Wild Coast Tented Lodge, another one of Resplendent Ceylon’s properties. The luxury camp is unfenced and wildlife will often wander into the premises from the park, giving guests a sometimes-gleeful, sometimes-terrifying experience.  

The lodge itself is an architectural delight, focusing on sustainable design and the use of organic materials, including bamboo. It includes 28 “cocoons” or pods scattered throughout the jungle wilderness. The interiors feature rustic touches like cooper hardware, a leopard-claw bathtub, and vintage leather furniture. 

It’s also here that the jungle meets the Indian Ocean. As I wandered along the rugged coastline or enjoyed a sundowner, I was once again reminded of the serenity that Sri Lanka has to offer.