LAHORE: Maavia and the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) made Pakistani fashion history on Friday, with the transgender model closing out the runway for designer Hamza Bokhari’s capsule craft collection.
A few days before the official start of the 11th edition of the PFDC’s Sunsilk Fashion Week (SFW), the council issued a press release for the curated concept show that would pave the way for the spring/summer fashion week.
Paired with jewelry by Reama Malik, the designers were tasked with producing ensembles that weaved within them Pakistani craftsmanship.
One of the designers was Bokhari, creative director of the label Jeem, who cast Maavia as his showstopper — the model who walks out the final look of a collection.
She made an impact in Pakistan’s fashion industry last year when she was shot for the first fashion editorial to feature a trans model.
Bokhari provided the clothing for the shoot, which was shot by students of Lahore Grammar School for a final project. That collaboration led to Maavia closing out his show.
The trans population in Pakistan is a visible and present minority. There have been gains, albeit slow, in terms of rights and recognition, but there is a long way to go.
Representation has been a dominating conversation across entertainment, the corporate world and fashion for some time, and in a country such as Pakistan, these steps toward inclusion can change the thread of a society’s fabric.
“The transgender community has expressed how happy they are about this, and some are even jealous,” said Maavia, laughing.
Bokhari told Arab News: “It was like a dream come true for me to see Maavia representing and providing diversity on our country’s biggest fashion platform.”
Fashion week began the day after International Women’s Day, and a day after the Aurat March (women’s march), whose participants demanded women’s rights, including for trans women.
“I want all diverse people to lead us to a place filled with love, divinity and empathy,” said Bokhari.
“Google trend data shows that people are searching gender equality more than ever. I hope we continue to support trans people in all walks of life.”
Trans model makes Pakistani fashion history
Trans model makes Pakistani fashion history
Recipes for success: Chef Jonas Plangger at Myra Jeddah offers advice and a fruit madeleine recipe
DUBAI: When German pastry chef Jonas Plangger first accepted the offer of a job in Saudi Arabia from Amro Bagedo, founder and CEO of Kraiv, three years ago (a job that has since involved overseeing the launch of the pattiserie and “all-day dining concept” Myra Jeddah, where he is the executive pastry chef), it nearly ended his marriage.
Plangger, no stranger to travelling abroad for work, took the job, he says, because his “gut feeling” once presented with the challenge made him say yes. Before he checked with his wife, who wasn’t especially impressed at not being consulted.
Fortunately, the move has paid off personally and professionally for Plangger and his family, who have now settled happily into life in the Kingdom.
And Myra, he says, is thriving. “Breakfast trade is extremely strong. The lunch trade is extremely strong. And then the evening trade is where the most people eat cake,” he tells Arab News. “So we have a very strong customer base throughout the whole day.”
It’s a customer base he describes as a tough crowd.
“The Saudi customer is very, very challenging,” Plangger says. “Wants everything, wants it now, is very picky… but once convinced is the most loyal customer you can experience.
“We’re ready to transfer the brand to Riyadh. That’s the next step. I’m really looking forward to this. The company is growing. It’s really exciting times. My staff, they’ve all been with me from the beginning. I’m really proud of them. They’re really, really strong pastry chefs. We are proud of what we’re doing. If you compare what else is on the market, I think we can put our chests out a bit.”
What’s your top tip for amateurs?
The secret to all cooking — at home, in a professional kitchen, wherever — is to plan ahead. Take a piece of paper, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and follow those steps. What (inexperienced) chefs do, what I did myself… You want to do everything right now, everything all together. But that doesn’t work. The to-do list is crucial. Work clean and organized, have an idea of what you’re doing. Plan it through. Is the oven ready? Do I have my bowls? Do I have my sieve? Do I have my ingredients? Because when you suddenly need the flour, and it’s in a cupboard somewhere, and you need to call your mom, it ends in disaster.
What one ingredient can improve any dish?
For me, vanilla bean. I think it’s the turbo for every dessert, it gives everything an elegant touch — a bit of luxury. I’m obsessed with it. It’s an expensive ingredient, but it just adds another layer of flavor to everything,
And what’s the most underrated ingredient?
Probably cinnamon. Everyone knows you’ll have it in an apple crumble or a cinnamon roll or whatever, but, especially in the Middle East, cinnamon is used for so many different things. Even in pastry, or just a normal vanilla sponge, you add half a gram of cinnamon and it just lifts the whole thing up, without tasting of cinnamon. It’s very nice and very, very underrated.
When you go out to eat do you find yourself critiquing the food? Or are you able to switch off your ‘chef brain?’
No, I can’t. I’m really pleased if I like something on a personal and a professional level, it makes me very happy. But of course I start nitpicking. It’s normal. But it goes both ways. Yes, (chefs are) more critical, but if I find someone who puts effort in and the service is good and the food is good and the whole experience is good then I love praising people.
And what’s the most common issue that you find in other restaurants?
Lack of seasoning. I can forgive a lot, you know? Like it might be a busy restaurant… so service (might suffer). Maybe it’s not to your personal liking. But if the food is bland, that’s just a lack of care. Because it means the chef didn’t taste his food.
What’s your favorite cuisine?
Italian. It’s the simplicity of it. Simplicity and flavor. I absolutely love pasta. I was in Italy recently and it’s a different game. It’s, like, four, five, six ingredients. I love it.
What’s your favorite dish to cook?
Black Forest gateaux. I’m from the Black Forest. We take that very, very seriously. It’s a joy to make. It’s where I come from. It’s my identity. That’s why I really enjoy doing it.
I’d imagine that’s quite a lot of pressure the first time you make one?
To be fair, at the bakery where I was an apprentice, we made like, 80 a day. I really learned it from scratch in the Black Forest.
What customer behavior most frustrates you?
When someone seasons the food without trying it. Yeah, I can’t deal. I think it’s very rude. It disrespects the chef. At least try it.
What’s the most difficult dish for you to perfect?
From a chef’s point of view, the most difficult is anything that is very clean and very neat, and you don’t have a lot of flavors going on. You have nowhere to hide. Obviously, pastry chefs are very good at hiding (things) by chocolate. I think sushi is one of the most difficult to get right, because you have rice and you have fish. That’s it. If the rice is not spot on, or the fish is not spot on, or the technique is not spot on… see you later. In the pastry world, I think that goes more for baking, like, a croissant, say. You make a simple mistake there, in the lamination or in the proving… People don’t understand how much effort goes into a single croissant.
In the kitchen, what are you like as a leader?
Firm but fair. I’m very passionate. Extremely passionate. Things get a bit wild. But I love to lead. I love to teach to let people grow. Discipline is crucial. I have a big Michelin background, and without discipline… don’t even start. My team is from all parts of the world, but we all have one common path to guide us; that’s the discipline.
Chef Jonas’ fruit madeleines
WARNING: You’ll need a madeleine baking pan (pan with small shell-shaped molds) and a piping bag.
INGREDIENTS
For the madeleine batter:
3 eggs; 10g honey; 100g sugar; 5g baking powder; 120g all-purpose flour; 1g salt; 2g vanilla essence; 110g melted butter
For the fruit mixture (all fruits should be dry): 50g dates; 50g apricots; 50g cherry; 50g mango; 50g raisins; 1 vanilla stick; zest of 1 orange; 3g cinnamon; 300g stock syrup
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Mix the eggs, honey and sugar in a bowl or processor for 3 minutes. Set aside.
2. Sieve together the baking powder, all-purpose flour and salt and fold under.
3. Add melted butter and vanilla essence.
4. Combine both mixtures together and mix until it becomes firm.
5. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, but ideally for 12 hours.
6. In a separate bowl, put all the ingredients for the fruit mixture, including the syrup, and allow to soak for at least 2 hours, but ideally for 12 hours.
7. Combine the batter with the fruit mixture, put in a piping bag. Line your madeleine molds with grease and flour. Pipe the mix into the molds.
8. Bake in a pre-heated oven at 165 C for 11-13 minutes.
Eva Longoria joins In Conversation lineup at Red Sea International Film Festival
DUBAI: Hollywood actress Eva Longoria has joined the all-star lineup of speakers at this year’s Red Sea International Film Festival in Jeddah, set to run from Dec. 5-14 in Culture Square in Al-Balad.
She joins previously announced speakers Egyptian star Mona Zaki and Oscar winner Viola Davis, as well as this year’s head of the jury Spike Lee.
The raft of speakers this year also includes filmmaker Michael Mann (“Ferrari”), Egyptian writer and director Mohamed Samy (“Detention Letter”) and Turkish stars Engin Altan Düzyatan and Nurgül Yeşilçay. Also joining the lineup are Indian superstars Ranbir Kapoor and Kareena Kapoor Khan.
In the festival’s Souk Talents program, aimed at up-and-coming creatives, Hollywood star Andrew Garfield will deliver a talk.
The festival will feature 120 films from 81 countries at the new venue — previous editions were held at the city’s Ritz-Carlton hotel — where five purpose-built cinemas and a large auditorium will host back-to-back screenings as well as In Conversation panels with celebrities.
Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio talks Saudi expansion amid ‘cultural revolution’
DUBAI: Fans of Italy-based luxury shoe brand Aquazzura are in good company, with the likes of Princess of Wales Kate Middleton, Beyonce and Meghan Markle showing off the label’s heels on numerous occasions. With new boutiques in Riyadh and Jeddah, creative director and founder Edgardo Osorio sat down with Arab News to discuss his decision to tap into the Saudi market.
The brand, founded in 2012, is going through a speedy expansion in the region with new boutiques opening in the Kingdom, Bahrain and Kuwait in 2024, with another UAE boutique sscheduled for 2025. This is after the brand’s first regional outlet opened in Dubai in 2018.
“It’s a very special time to be in Saudi and be a part of cultural revolution,” the Colombian designer said of his foray into Saudi Arabia at Riyadh’s Centria Mall and Jeddah’s Al-Khayyat Center — the brand’s first mono-brand concept stores in the country.
“We have a very large Saudi clientele already existing, at the shop here (in Dubai) the shop in London, and the shop in Paris, so for us it was a natural step.”
Fashion aficionados the world over will be familiar with Aquazzura’s often-copied designs, including the gem-encrusted Tequila Collection, the sparkling Gatsby Collection and the popular Twist line with its butter soft nappa leather and double padded insoles.
“The best sellers are the best sellers worldwide, but I think that Saudi women tend to dress up more,” Osorio said of Saudi footwear trends.
While a distinct focus on attention-grabbing heels is part of the Aquazzura design ethos, Osorio is keen to reiterate that the brand was born out of a desire to provide comfort.
“The reason (this) exists is because one summer I was invited to 13 weddings. I went to 12 … and I noticed women complaining about their shoes — and this was a time pre-designer sneakers, pre-there being all heel heights … Comfort was a dirty word in fashion at the time,” he said.
“And so I said … there’s an opportunity in the market to make beautiful, comfortable shoes because if you can choose, which one would you choose?”
That savvy insight proved to be the making of a designer who showed his fashion chops from a young age, interning at fashion companies in his native Colombia at the age of 14 before moving to London to study at the London College of Fashion at 16.
After dropping out to pursue a career at Italian accessories label Salvatore Ferragamo, Osorio found himself as the head of footwear at Roberto Cavalli at just 23.
His own venture began with the study of the human foot, a far cry of the glitz and glam of the red carpet where Osorio’s designs would end up.
“I worked with a technician who had been studying the human foot and making shoes for over 40 years and the way (our) shoes are constructed, the weight of your body is more evenly distributed … so our shoes are more ergonomic. The weight of your body is more evenly distributed between the front, the arch and the back.
“I also use extra-soft materials and I put in memory foam,” he said. “Almost nobody works like this. I don't know why except for me … and so obviously women feel the difference.”
Women and fashion’s leading awarding bodies, it seems, for Osorio has just been named Footwear News’s 2024 Designer of the Year — a prestigious prize in the international style industry.
Osorio was named Designer of the Year once before, in 2015, and he is part of a cohort of previous winners including Jordanian Romanian celebrity designer Amina Muaddi, London-based Charlotte Olympia Dellal and Italy’s Gianvito Rossi, among others.
“It’s obviously a huge honor to be recognised by my peers and by Footwear News … this is a very pivotal moment for the brand,” he said.
“(We are) part of a major expansion for the brand, in the major face of growth in a difficult moment, people are believing in us and people are choosing to buy and wear Aquazzura.
“When I launched Aquazurra, we were in the middle of an economic depression and everyone was telling me ‘you’re crazy to open a brand and to leave Cavalli’ … I read somewhere ‘crisis means opportunity’ … and in the moment of crisis is when you need to get crafty and creative,” he said.
Twelve years on, as his latest gilded boutique in the Middle East joins his growing list of international outlets, it seems the designer took a step in the right direction.
Red Sea International Film Festival 2024: The award contenders — part one
DUBAI: The first half of our rundown of the films in competition at this year’s RSIFF, which begins Dec. 5
‘Saify’
Director: Wael Abumansour
Starring: Osama Alqess, Aixa Kay, Baraa Alem, Nour Alkhadra
It’s no surprise that the Kingdom’s sole directorial representative in competition at this year’s Red Sea International Film Festival (several of the other films are Saudi-backed, however) comes from the groundbreaking Telfaz11 studio, of which Abumansour is the head. “Saify” — his second feature, following “Carnival City,” which opened the festival in 2020 — is set in the year 2000, and is a satirical take on Saudi Arabia’s conservative clerics that centers on the forty-something title character, a “washed-up confidence trickster who owes money to everyone, including his ex-wife,” who runs a small cassette shop where he sells banned hard-line religious sermons. “When Saify finds a tape containing a scandalous recording of the influential Sheikh Assad, he thinks he’s finally in the money,” the synopsis states. “Saify” seems set to continue Telfaz11’s practice of pushing cultural boundaries.
‘Superboys of Malegaon’
Director: Reema Kagti
Starring: Adarsh Gourav, Vineet Kumar Singh, Shashank Arora
Hindi-language comedy drama inspired by a 2008 documentary about a group of DIY filmmakers in the titular Indian city who make spoofs of Bollywood movies as a form of escapism. This film spans a couple of decades from the late Nineties, and centers on photographer and videographer Nasir Sheikh who runs a failing cinema with his brother Nihal. When Nasir starts to make Bollywood parodies tweaked to fit Malegaon’s local culture, he becomes something of a local celebrity — a situation his ego is ill-equipped to deal with. Variety said it is “a moving ode to filmmaking,” adding that “few films have been as adept at capturing why people still go to the movies.”
‘Hanami’
Director: Denise Fernandes
Starring:
Fernandes’ beautifully shot debut feature is set in her ancestral home of Cape Verde and is a coming-of-age tale spanning three periods of the life of the title character Nana. First as a toddler, after her mother Nia leaves the island in search of a better life, then in a magical-realist sequence in which Nana journeys to the foot of a volcano in the hope of curing her sickness, then with Nana as a teenager, reflecting on the community of women who have raised her and a reunion with her birth mother.
‘To a Land Unknown’
Director: Mahdi Fleifel
Starring: Angeliki Papoulia, Mahmood Bakri, Mohammad Ghassan
“To a Land Unknown” might be Fleifel’s fiction debut, but its themes will be familiar to anyone who has seen his documentaries. Chatila and Reda are Palestinian refugees living in Athens, trying to save up for fake passports so they can move to Germany. But when Reda blows all their money on heroin, Chatila is drawn into a risky smuggling operation. Variety called it “a confident, angry, fully-realized drama which should see its makers afforded further opportunities to craft similarly vital work.”
‘Moon’
Director: Kurdwin Ayub
Starring: Florentina Holzinger, Celina Sarhan, Andria Tayeh, Nagham Abu Baker
The award-winning Iraqi-Austrian filmmakers third feature tells the story of Sarah, a former mixed martial artist from Austria who thinks she’s found her dream job when she is hired to train the three daughters of a wealthy Jordanian family. But despite the luxurious surroundings, Sarah is soon feeling unnerved as she quickly discovers that the sisters are under constant surveillance and have little interest in learning to box.
‘Songs of Adam’
Director: Oday Rasheed
Starring: Azzam Ahmed Ali, Abdul Jabber Hassan, Alaa Najm
The Baghdad-born Arab American director blends drama and magical realism in this tale of two brothers — Adam and Ali. When they are instructed to witness their grandfather’s corpse being washed before burial, Adam, then aged 12, announces that he has decided not to grow up. And as the years pass, he doesn’t. The villagers, including Ali, believe he has been cursed. Only his two friends Iman and Anki see Adam’s condition as an innocence-preserving gift.
‘Red Path’
Director: Lotfi Achour
Starring: Ali Hleli, Yassine Samouni, Wided Dabebi
Tunisian director Achour drew on real-life events for this disturbing drama about a harrowing attack on two young shepherds by a violent jihadist group, leaving one dead and the other — 14-year-old Achraf — to take the head of his dead cousin back home as a warning to their community. Ali Hleli has drawn plaudits for his portrayal of Achraf. His casting was reportedly the result of a year-long audition process for the three main roles. The International Cinephile Society said the film was “a strong portrait of the horrors of regional violence and how children are often the collateral damage of this vicious cycle.”
‘Snow White’
Director: Taghrid Abouelhassan
Starring: Mariam Sherif, Karim Fahmy, Mohamed Mamdouh
Iman’s search for true love is complicated by her size — she stands just 119 centimeters tall. Since an arranged marriage is off the table, Iman takes to the internet, where her outsize personality and sense of fun can shine. But offline, her condition is still a problem, even causing her sister’s marriage offer to fall through once the family meet Iman. Egyptian filmmaker Abouelhassan’s film has already picked up awards at the Cairo Film Festival.
Saudi influencer Yara Alnamlah’s brand heads to Selfridges London
- Moonglaze’s UK launch is ‘just the beginning,’ founder tells Arab News
DUBAI: Moonglaze, the beauty brand founded by Saudi influencer Yara Alnamlah, is set to make history on Dec. 4 as the first Saudi beauty label to launch at Selfridges London.
For Alnamlah, this is much more than just a business accomplishment; it’s a cultural moment, she told Arab News.
“For Moonglaze to be the first Saudi beauty brand at Selfridges is an exciting and proud moment,” she said. “This isn’t just a win for us as a brand; it’s a moment of recognition for the Saudi and Arab beauty community as a whole. It shows that we’re not only consumers of global beauty trends but also creators who bring something unique to the table.”
Alnamlah emphasized that this launch will open doors for the brand beyond the Middle East.
“London is a beauty and fashion capital,” she said. “This exposure will undoubtedly help us expand beyond the Middle East, connect with international beauty lovers, and establish Moonglaze as a brand that brings Middle Eastern beauty innovation to the global market.”
The Selfridges debut will feature Moonglaze’s new blush range, designed to suit a variety of skin tones, Alnamlah said, adding that it represents the next step in Moonglaze’s evolution, complementing the brand’s existing highlighter sticks and multi-use brushes, which have already gained a loyal following.
The creation of Moonglaze has been a deeply personal one, shaped by Alnamlah’s background as a makeup artist. “Our products are inspired by my belief in healthy, glowing skin as the foundation of any great makeup look,” she said. This belief led her to begin her brand with skincare products before expanding to blushes and highlighters.
The use of ‘moon’ in the brand name is inspired by the fact that, in Arabic (qamar), it’s used as a description “someone who is perfectly luminous, just like the full moon,” according to Alnamlah.
“The idea of using makeup to highlight natural beauty rather than mask it is something that I wanted to reflect in every Moonglaze product,” Alnamlah added. “Growing up in Saudi Arabia, I’ve always been inspired by the cultural appreciation of beauty and the importance of glowing, radiant skin.”
Reflecting on the challenges and lessons of building her brand, Alnamlah shared how staying true to her vision has been key. “I’ve learned that beauty isn’t just about the products, but about how they make people feel,” she said.
Alnamlah has made a name for herself on the fashion circuit as a blogger, beauty influencer and makeup artist over the last few years. Besides her beauty brand, the architecture student is also an entrepreneur and has a coffee store called So Matcha in Riyadh.
In 2021, she was featured in French luxury fashion label Jean Paul Gaultier’s campaign as they celebrated Saudi Arabia’s 91st National Day — its first-ever launch dedicated to a Middle Eastern country.
The Selfridges launch marks a pivotal moment for Moonglaze, but Alnamlah’s ambitions extend far beyond London.
“The Selfridges launch is just the beginning,” she said. “We are excited to expand into more countries. As we grow, we’ll continue to innovate with new product launches and collections, like our blush range.
“The ultimate goal is to create a brand that empowers people to embrace their natural beauty,” she said.
