British baker challenges Islamophobia one cake at a time

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Ali Imdad, the British baker challenging Islamophobia with dessert. Pictures by Felicity Millward
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Ali Imdad, the British baker challenging Islamophobia with dessert. Pictures by Felicity Millward
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Ali Imdad is bringing the culinary traditions of his Pakistani heritage and other countries across the Islamic world to the trendy London borough of Hackney. Pictures by Felicity Millward
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Ali Imdad is bringing the culinary traditions of his Pakistani heritage and other countries across the Islamic world to the trendy London borough of Hackney. Pictures by Felicity Millward
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Ali Imdad, the British baker challenging Islamophobia with dessert. Pictures by Felicity Millward
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Ali Imdad is bringing the culinary traditions of his Pakistani heritage and other countries across the Islamic world to the trendy London borough of Hackney. Pictures by Felicity Millward
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Ali Imdad, the British baker challenging Islamophobia with dessert. Pictures by Felicity Millward
Updated 09 May 2018
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British baker challenges Islamophobia one cake at a time

  • The backbone of each recipe is British, but the essence of his cakes comes from the East.
  • In the charged political climate since Britain’s decision to leave the European Union, Imdad said that he has encountered more instances of Islamophobia.

LONDON: Ali Imdad is drizzling almond oil into a delicious-smelling dessert ready for the after-work crowd that will pile into Milk Cafe later to enjoy a slice of cake infused with flavours from across the Muslim world.

Like Imdad, who was born and raised in the UK, the backbone of each recipe is British, but the essence of his cakes comes from the East, bringing the culinary traditions of his Pakistani heritage and other countries across the Islamic world to the trendy London borough of Hackney where, he hopes, they will inspire a different dialogue about what it means to be Muslim.

Imdad, 30, who was runner-up on the popular Great British Bake Off TV show, says he wants to encourage a “more wholesome” perception of Islam in the UK through his pop-up cafe, which is entering the final phase of a successful four-week run.

 

“Muslims historically haven’t just focused on religion,” says Imdad, citing the impact of Islamic culture on the arts, sciences and literature as well as cuisine. “Food has been integral to Muslims since the dawn of Islam, but people are surprised to hear that it was Muslims who brought orange juice here.”

Growing up in the “very Asian community” of the Alum Rock suburb of Birmingham, Imdad never considered his Muslim identity. “I didn’t really think about what being Muslim meant, it was just something I was.” Never having reason to question his place in society, he felt “just as British as the next person.”

But after 9/11 he noticed a shift. On the bus, he would overhear people discussing his religion and on more than one occasion he was asked to explain the Taliban’s motives. “For the first time I felt like the other.”

In the charged political climate since Britain’s decision to leave the European Union, Imdad said that he has encountered more instances of Islamophobia, from racial slurs to ripping off women’s hijabs, than he cares to remember.

“We’re on dangerous territory,” he said, concerned by the “increasing acceptance” toward anti-Islamic sentiment, popularised by certain prominent politicians and academics who are “welcoming far-right hate speech.”

When an anonymous letter was circulated last March naming April 3 as “Punish a Muslim Day” and calling for attacks against Muslims, he decided to act. He posted a tweet on social media saying that although ”hatred doesn’t scare me” that ”my mum is sitting reading the Qur’an and praying for safety ... That she feels she has to pray to stay safe just for being a Muslim. When did we go back to the 1930s again?”

He said that he felt a responsibility to “call them out.” After the Manchester bombing in May last year he noticed a surge in Islamophobic comments over social media. “As a Muslim you need to defend other Muslims,” he said, explaining that for him as a baker, it was about creating an environment where people could discover the culinary culture of Islam.

“It’s a more subtle approach toward introducing people to the different cultures of Islam, they can come and discuss the religion, or just enjoy the food and see, through my desserts, how Muslims have contributed to world cuisine.”

“We’re real foodies,” he says, slicing a tray of brownies into thick wedges for his most popular recipe, which infuses dates, figs and chocolate into the popular English pudding. His menu, which also stars a delectable Moroccan-inspired orange and pomegranate drizzle cake and a Pakistani-themed chai-spiced chocolate sphere, aims to reflect the diversity of the Muslim world.

“I want to remind people that there isn’t a single Muslim culture; there are cultures within the Muslim field and my desserts aren’t just Muslim desserts, they’re from Malaysia, Morocco, Egypt, Iran, Pakistan, Egypt and beyond.”

There’s only so much that can by achieved with a menu of cakes — however inspired the recipes — and Imdad is the first to acknowledge this, but he feels that an “accessible”, “grassroots” approach is what’s lacking in efforts to combat the rising tide of Islamophobia in Britain.

“There are plenty of people talking on our behalf at the political level, but not everybody is interested in politics … this is for people who want to talk about Islam in terms of the history, or the food, or the culture, rather than discussing terrorism, bombs or wars.”

His latest recipe, which is emitting a mouthwatering perfume from the bowl as we speak, was dreamed up on the train here as he sifted through the memories of a visit to Egypt 10 years ago. Although it is the first time he has made it, he is sure that the flavours — almond cake infused with cinnamon syrup and a vanilla and ginger gelato, will work and conjure up his experience of Egypt for his customers.

Imdad said that it is a subtle, but powerful platform: “Everyone’s interested in food and what better way to bring everyone together?” Back at home Alum Rock, he said that he is conscious of the deepening divisions in British society.

“When I was younger there used to be quite a few white families living there, but now, 20 years later, they’re all gone, I don’t remember the last time I saw a white face there.”

Much has been said at the political level about addressing the issues surrounding the integration of minority communities in the UK, but the starting point for change, Imdad said, is conversation. “We can’t keep living separate but together … dialogue is the only way to bridge that divide, ideally over cake.”

  • Milk Cafe will open at Bake Street cafe in London, from 5.30pm to 11pm until May 13. Reservations can be made over social media or by emailing [email protected]

FASTFACTS

Anti-Muslim hate crimes in the UK increased by 40 percent between January 2017 and January 2018, with 1,678 incidents reported in the capital, up from 1,205 the previous year, according to figures released by the Mayor of London, Sadiq Khan.


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Nakhat Alshraq’ authentic northern Indian cuisine

Experience the richness of Royal Biryani – a vibrant mix of basmati rice, fresh vegetables, and signature spices. (Supplied)
Updated 25 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Nakhat Alshraq’ authentic northern Indian cuisine

  • Prices are reasonable, making Nakhat Alshraq an excellent option for those seeking quality Indian food without breaking the bank

Nakhat Alshraq is a haven for those craving authentic northern Indian cuisine, with branches in Riyadh, Dammam, and Alkhobar.

Known for its dedication to fresh ingredients and bold spices, this restaurant has become a favorite for families and food enthusiasts.

The menu boasts a variety of classics like butter chicken for SR59 ($16), chicken tikka masala, and chicken biryani, all expertly prepared and bursting with flavor.

The royal biryani stands out as a signature dish, with its rich blend of basmati rice, fresh vegetables, and perfectly balanced Indian spices.

Asian flavors meet Indian flair in these Singapore noodles – light, savory, and unforgettable. (Supplied)

The Singapore noodles is an Asian fusion option that delivers a unique twist to the dining experience. The dishes are meticulously presented, showcasing attention to detail that elevates the overall meal. The vibrant and cozy ambiance creates a welcoming environment for gatherings, whether casual or celebratory.

Prices are reasonable, making Nakhat Alshraq an excellent option for those seeking quality Indian food without breaking the bank.

Additionally, the restaurant caters to a diverse palate, offering both mild and spicy dishes, ensuring something for everyone.

However, the restaurant’s popularity is both a blessing and a curse. Nakhat Alshraq is frequently crowded, particularly during peak dining hours, which can make securing a table a challenge. For those who plan ahead, this minor inconvenience is outweighed by the consistently excellent food and service.

For more information, check their Instagram @nakhatalshraq.

 


Where We Are Going Today: Crosto bakery in Dammam

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Updated 23 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: Crosto bakery in Dammam

  • The Crosto Om Ali provided a warm, creamy, comforting conclusion to the meal

If you’re in Dammam and looking for a flavorful brunch or a light meal, the recently opened bakery Crosto offers a cozy atmosphere and a versatile menu catering to different tastes.

The maple shrimp for SR46 ($12) was the highlight of our visit — perfectly cooked shrimp complemented by a sweet maple glaze. The chicken sliders (SR33) were another favorite — juicy, tasty, and served on fresh buns. The Turkish shakshuka and Crosto avocado are worth trying too.

The Crosto Om Ali provided a warm, creamy, comforting conclusion to the meal.

Crosto’s Turkish Coffee is a must-have for coffee enthusiasts. Its authentic preparation and rich taste paired perfectly with the desserts, enhancing the overall dining experience.

The atmosphere at Crosto is welcoming and casual. However, the service during our visit was a little slow, which might be a concern if you’re in a rush.

With its mix of regional and international flavors, Crosto could be a good choice for your next outing in Dammam.

For more information, check their Instagram @crosto.sa.

 


Italian and Saudi flavors blend in embassy dinner and cooking competition

Risotto competition at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)
Updated 22 November 2024
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Italian and Saudi flavors blend in embassy dinner and cooking competition

  • Highlighting similarities between Italian and Saudi cultures that can be sensed in their cuisines, Chiari said: “Both Italy and Saudi Arabia place great importance on hospitality, family, and the tradition of sharing meals

RIYADH: A group of 15 Saudi and Italian chefs created a seven-course dinner titled “Italy meets KSA,” combining both cuisines at Ritz Carlton’s Azzuro Restaurant.

Daniele Chiari, Italian chef and head of Dinner Incredible, the hosts of the event, told Arab News: “Tonight’s event in Riyadh is inspired by the shared love for storytelling and culture through cuisine. As a chef, I see food as a universal language that connects people, and Saudi Arabia’s culinary traditions are incredibly rich and diverse, just like Italy’s.”

Mozzarella demonstration at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)

The event featured a culinary risotto competition between top Saudi chefs, which was won by Omar AlKhaldi, who received a scholarship fund from ALMA, the School of Italian Culinary Arts.

The event also had a display of fresh mozzarella cheese for tasting, made in the Kingdom by Sana cheese company, which specializes in Italian cheeses.

Risotto competition at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)

“This evening, we aim to create a bridge between these two cultures, highlighting how local Saudi ingredients and techniques can harmonize beautifully with Italian culinary artistry,” Chiari said.

The evening concluded with a seven-course tasting dinner highlighting Italian and Saudi flavors. The menu included a pumpkin tart, cream of beans soup with shredded camel meat, a Red Sea grouper served with truffle, and a Saudi-coffee twist on the famous tiramisu.

Red Sea grouper at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)

Highlighting similarities between Italian and Saudi cultures that can be sensed in their cuisines, Chiari said: “Both Italy and Saudi Arabia place great importance on hospitality, family, and the tradition of sharing meals. In terms of food, there’s a deep respect for natural, high-quality ingredients in both cuisines. Just as Italians value simplicity and the authentic taste of their produce, Saudis take pride in the purity and flavor of their spices, grains, and meats.”

Chiari spoke about the ability of food to cross international borders and connect communities.

Rosewater-glazed lamb at the "Italy meets KSA" dinner at the Ritz Carlton Hotel. (AN photo)

“Food is one of the most powerful ways to build connections and foster understanding between cultures. It transcends language, politics, and borders, allowing people to experience something deeply personal yet universally relatable. By crossing international borders through food, we’re not just sharing recipes — we’re sharing history, values, and creativity.”

The competition was organized by the Italian Embassy in Riyadh, the Italian Trade Agency, and ALMA, the School of Italian Culinary Arts, in collaboration with Sitaf and the Royal Protocol.

 

 


Where We Are Going Today: Soul Bowl restaurant in Riyadh

Updated 21 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: Soul Bowl restaurant in Riyadh

Soul Bowl, an on-the-go healthy meal station is catching the eye of Riyadh’s foodie and wellness fiends with their nutritious bowls and sandwiches.

While most tend to order for delivery, you can enjoy a comfortable and quaint indoor dining experience in their store in As Sahafah; where the neutral colors, soft warm lighting, and pop of green offer a welcoming atmosphere for both solo and social dining.

Soul Bowl’s menu offers a wide selection of salads, bowls, flatbread sandwiches, wraps, soups, and rice meals, as well as fresh juices, desserts and acai bowls. 

Their wraps and bowls are a hit, with the chicken chipotle wrap and the Mexican bowl as big standouts. 

The chicken used is clearly of high quality and cooked very well, and the rest of the ingredients, such as the greens, rice, sauces, feel very fresh. The flatbread sandwiches, however, are a bit of a hit or miss.

The main courses they offer range from tandoori chicken to beef stroganoff.


Where We Are Going Today: ‘Gosha’ bakery in Riyadh

Updated 20 November 2024
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Where We Are Going Today: ‘Gosha’ bakery in Riyadh

Gosha, with several branches in Riyadh, has gained a loyal following for its fresh-baked flatbreads and creative flavor combinations.

This modern bakery is the go-to spot for fans of stone-baked delights, offering a unique twist on traditional recipes. 

The thyme with pomegranate flatbread is the star of the menu. Its tangy, earthy flavors are perfectly balanced and complemented by the crispness of the bread. Another top pick is the honey labneh flatbread, offering a delightful sweet-and-savory profile. The falafel wrap also deserves praise for its crispy, flavorful filling that feels hearty and fresh.

Gosha’s menu caters to those seeking variety, offering several options suitable for breakfast or light snacks. 

However, one thing missing from the experience is the addition of fresh beverages. It would be great to pair these delicious flatbreads with fresh juice, tea, or coffee, creating a more complete dining experience.

Overall, Gosha impresses with its innovative take on traditional flavors, vibrant presentation, and consistently high quality.

This is a great option for anyone looking for a quick, delicious bite in Riyadh.

For more information, check the bakery’s Instagram @qooshah.