DUBAI: When it comes to Saudi Arabian women and their fashion sense, there’s one preconception that particularly grates on Marriam Mossalli.
“That we eat, pray, sleep and bathe in our black abayas!” she says with a laugh. “They actually come off — and underneath, you will find the latest trends in fashion just like any other highly fashion-conscious society.”
That’s one of the main reasons the Jeddah-based entrepreneur, journalist and fashion consultant decided to use her platforms to change perceptions of women in her homeland, and to support local industry in the Kingdom.
Mossalli — founder of fashion website ShoesandDrama.com, as well as luxury consultancy firm Niche Arabia — recently added ‘author’ to her resumé with the release of her book “Under the Abaya: Street Style from Saudi Arabia.”
Released earlier this year, the publication explores “the Saudi female’s unique versatility” through a series of curated photographs — images as compelling as they are eccentric.
“Having worked in the fashion industry for over a decade, I always wanted to do something to highlight the diverse and insanely up-to-trend fashion scene in Saudi Arabia; but I also knew I wanted to do something for female empowerment even more,” Mossalli says. “So, when (Jeddah-based) Misk Art Institute invited me to participate in the first Art Books Fair (which took place in February), I felt it was as good a time as any to try to break the stereotypes of Saudi females often portrayed in Western media.”
It all started when the 32-year-old posted to her tens of thousands of Instagram followers about the project, inviting women to submit pictures representing their style.
“We had over 1,000 submissions within a week from a single social media post. The response has been truly overwhelming,” she says. “I shot my own images myself but the rest of the book was all submitted by doctors, yoga instructors, photographers, and fashionistas. We are currently open for submissions for the second edition.”
While the first publication was released in the Kingdom, the second is going global — it will launch on the sidelines of the Contemporary Muslim Fashion exhibition at the de Young Museum in San Francisco in September. A smart move, given the current political climate.
“I want to show the world that Saudi women are more than these muted, black figures you see on Fox News walking five feet behind her ‘mahram,’” Mossalli says. “We have opinions and ideas, and are making changes accordingly.”
The book, she adds, complements the online platform undertheabayaksa.com.
“(The website) is inspired by ‘Humans of New York,’ where people submit their own pictures and tell us who they are, what they do… their story. Our hope is to create positive connotations around Saudi women and Saudi Arabia.”
Proceeds from the book, which is produced by Niche Arabia, will be used toward scholarships for aspiring fashion design students.
Asked whether she has faced any criticism for the project, the fashionista says it has been the “complete opposite.”
“A few years ago, I had mentioned possibly doing a street-style book, and many women said they would participate but with cropped-out faces.” Now, however, it’s a different story, with 99% of those featured having no issue with showing their faces.
“In fact, many wanted to put their Instagram handles next to their names,” Mossalli explains. “It was honestly shocking for me to see the shift in societal taboos that has happened within a mere two years.”
It’s apparent that promoting Saudi, no matter the venture, is important to Mossalli.
“Since I moved back to Saudi after graduating from George Washington University, I have always been a champion of Saudi talent,” she says. “All my endeavors seem to be quite nationalistic.
“I entered adulthood in a post-911 world, where the media’s portrayal of Saudi Arabia was very one-dimensional. I believe I’ve been trying to counteract those depictions ever since my first job as a novice journalist.”
Recently, Mossalli and her Niche Arabia team were at the Cannes Film Festival: “We saw Saudi haute couture brand Ashi Studio dressing many celebrities on the red carpet. Niche Arabia was responsible for dressing Alessandra Ambrosio in Saudi fine jewelry brand — Nadine Jewellery — as well as styling Razan Alazzouni,” she says. “Alessandra said she got so many compliments from her Chopard-clad celebrity friends, and that she was so in love with the SAR 1 million multi-colored stone set she wished she could keep it. I told her, ‘Don’t we all?’ and carefully slipped it back into its case.”
Protecting million-riyal items aside, Mossalli now wants to focus on a few passion projects, including a graphic novel based in NEOM, the “transnational” city slated for construction in Tabuk, Saudi Arabia, with a Saudi female protagonist; launching another philanthropic venture with L’Azurde jewelry; and creating female-license-plate gold bracelets, the funds from which will go toward putting underprivileged women through driving school.
“I’ve also teamed up with Saudi designer Eman Joharjy and Emirati designer Fatma Al-Mulla to create active-wear abayas to reflect the busy lifestyles of Saudi women,” she adds.
So, she’s certainly keeping busy. And one thing is for certain: Saudi women will always be at the heart of whatever she does.
“We’ve always been ambitious achievers,” she says. “The only difference now is that we have our government and society championing us to go out there and be seen for who we are and what we do.
“What I hope to see is a future where Saudi women doing things isn’t labeled ‘a first,’ but rather that our participation is normalized. It will no longer be news, but the norm,” she continues. “Then we can stop being the first, and start being the best.”
Marriam Mossalli’s ‘Under The Abaya’ — changing the perception of Saudi Arabian women
Marriam Mossalli’s ‘Under The Abaya’ — changing the perception of Saudi Arabian women
Eva Longoria joins In Conversation lineup at Red Sea International Film Festival
DUBAI: Hollywood actress Eva Longoria has joined the all-star lineup of speakers at this year’s Red Sea International Film Festival in Jeddah, set to run from Dec. 5-14 in Culture Square in Al-Balad.
She joins previously announced speakers Egyptian star Mona Zaki and Oscar winner Viola Davis, as well as this year’s head of the jury Spike Lee.
The raft of speakers this year also includes filmmaker Michael Mann (“Ferrari”), Egyptian writer and director Mohamed Samy (“Detention Letter”) and Turkish stars Engin Altan Düzyatan and Nurgül Yeşilçay. Also joining the lineup are Indian superstars Ranbir Kapoor and Kareena Kapoor Khan.
In the festival’s Souk Talents program, aimed at up-and-coming creatives, Hollywood star Andrew Garfield will deliver a talk.
The festival will feature 120 films from 81 countries at the new venue — previous editions were held at the city’s Ritz-Carlton hotel — where five purpose-built cinemas and a large auditorium will host back-to-back screenings as well as In Conversation panels with celebrities.
Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio talks Saudi expansion amid ‘cultural revolution’
DUBAI: Fans of Italy-based luxury shoe brand Aquazzura are in good company, with the likes of Princess of Wales Kate Middleton, Beyonce and Meghan Markle showing off the label’s heels on numerous occasions. With new boutiques in Riyadh and Jeddah, creative director and founder Edgardo Osorio sat down with Arab News to discuss his decision to tap into the Saudi market.
The brand, founded in 2012, is going through a speedy expansion in the region with new boutiques opening in the Kingdom, Bahrain and Kuwait in 2024, with another UAE boutique sscheduled for 2025. This is after the brand’s first regional outlet opened in Dubai in 2018.
“It’s a very special time to be in Saudi and be a part of cultural revolution,” the Colombian designer said of his foray into Saudi Arabia at Riyadh’s Centria Mall and Jeddah’s Al-Khayyat Center — the brand’s first mono-brand concept stores in the country.
“We have a very large Saudi clientele already existing, at the shop here (in Dubai) the shop in London, and the shop in Paris, so for us it was a natural step.”
Fashion aficionados the world over will be familiar with Aquazzura’s often-copied designs, including the gem-encrusted Tequila Collection, the sparkling Gatsby Collection and the popular Twist line with its butter soft nappa leather and double padded insoles.
“The best sellers are the best sellers worldwide, but I think that Saudi women tend to dress up more,” Osorio said of Saudi footwear trends.
While a distinct focus on attention-grabbing heels is part of the Aquazzura design ethos, Osorio is keen to reiterate that the brand was born out of a desire to provide comfort.
“The reason (this) exists is because one summer I was invited to 13 weddings. I went to 12 … and I noticed women complaining about their shoes — and this was a time pre-designer sneakers, pre-there being all heel heights … Comfort was a dirty word in fashion at the time,” he said.
“And so I said … there’s an opportunity in the market to make beautiful, comfortable shoes because if you can choose, which one would you choose?”
That savvy insight proved to be the making of a designer who showed his fashion chops from a young age, interning at fashion companies in his native Colombia at the age of 14 before moving to London to study at the London College of Fashion at 16.
After dropping out to pursue a career at Italian accessories label Salvatore Ferragamo, Osorio found himself as the head of footwear at Roberto Cavalli at just 23.
His own venture began with the study of the human foot, a far cry of the glitz and glam of the red carpet where Osorio’s designs would end up.
“I worked with a technician who had been studying the human foot and making shoes for over 40 years and the way (our) shoes are constructed, the weight of your body is more evenly distributed … so our shoes are more ergonomic. The weight of your body is more evenly distributed between the front, the arch and the back.
“I also use extra-soft materials and I put in memory foam,” he said. “Almost nobody works like this. I don't know why except for me … and so obviously women feel the difference.”
Women and fashion’s leading awarding bodies, it seems, for Osorio has just been named Footwear News’s 2024 Designer of the Year — a prestigious prize in the international style industry.
Osorio was named Designer of the Year once before, in 2015, and he is part of a cohort of previous winners including Jordanian Romanian celebrity designer Amina Muaddi, London-based Charlotte Olympia Dellal and Italy’s Gianvito Rossi, among others.
“It’s obviously a huge honor to be recognised by my peers and by Footwear News … this is a very pivotal moment for the brand,” he said.
“(We are) part of a major expansion for the brand, in the major face of growth in a difficult moment, people are believing in us and people are choosing to buy and wear Aquazzura.
“When I launched Aquazurra, we were in the middle of an economic depression and everyone was telling me ‘you’re crazy to open a brand and to leave Cavalli’ … I read somewhere ‘crisis means opportunity’ … and in the moment of crisis is when you need to get crafty and creative,” he said.
Twelve years on, as his latest gilded boutique in the Middle East joins his growing list of international outlets, it seems the designer took a step in the right direction.
Red Sea International Film Festival 2024: The award contenders — part one
DUBAI: The first half of our rundown of the films in competition at this year’s RSIFF, which begins Dec. 5
‘Saify’
Director: Wael Abumansour
Starring: Osama Alqess, Aixa Kay, Baraa Alem, Nour Alkhadra
It’s no surprise that the Kingdom’s sole directorial representative in competition at this year’s Red Sea International Film Festival (several of the other films are Saudi-backed, however) comes from the groundbreaking Telfaz11 studio, of which Abumansour is the head. “Saify” — his second feature, following “Carnival City,” which opened the festival in 2020 — is set in the year 2000, and is a satirical take on Saudi Arabia’s conservative clerics that centers on the forty-something title character, a “washed-up confidence trickster who owes money to everyone, including his ex-wife,” who runs a small cassette shop where he sells banned hard-line religious sermons. “When Saify finds a tape containing a scandalous recording of the influential Sheikh Assad, he thinks he’s finally in the money,” the synopsis states. “Saify” seems set to continue Telfaz11’s practice of pushing cultural boundaries.
‘Superboys of Malegaon’
Director: Reema Kagti
Starring: Adarsh Gourav, Vineet Kumar Singh, Shashank Arora
Hindi-language comedy drama inspired by a 2008 documentary about a group of DIY filmmakers in the titular Indian city who make spoofs of Bollywood movies as a form of escapism. This film spans a couple of decades from the late Nineties, and centers on photographer and videographer Nasir Sheikh who runs a failing cinema with his brother Nihal. When Nasir starts to make Bollywood parodies tweaked to fit Malegaon’s local culture, he becomes something of a local celebrity — a situation his ego is ill-equipped to deal with. Variety said it is “a moving ode to filmmaking,” adding that “few films have been as adept at capturing why people still go to the movies.”
‘Hanami’
Director: Denise Fernandes
Starring:
Fernandes’ beautifully shot debut feature is set in her ancestral home of Cape Verde and is a coming-of-age tale spanning three periods of the life of the title character Nana. First as a toddler, after her mother Nia leaves the island in search of a better life, then in a magical-realist sequence in which Nana journeys to the foot of a volcano in the hope of curing her sickness, then with Nana as a teenager, reflecting on the community of women who have raised her and a reunion with her birth mother.
‘To a Land Unknown’
Director: Mahdi Fleifel
Starring: Angeliki Papoulia, Mahmood Bakri, Mohammad Ghassan
“To a Land Unknown” might be Fleifel’s fiction debut, but its themes will be familiar to anyone who has seen his documentaries. Chatila and Reda are Palestinian refugees living in Athens, trying to save up for fake passports so they can move to Germany. But when Reda blows all their money on heroin, Chatila is drawn into a risky smuggling operation. Variety called it “a confident, angry, fully-realized drama which should see its makers afforded further opportunities to craft similarly vital work.”
‘Moon’
Director: Kurdwin Ayub
Starring: Florentina Holzinger, Celina Sarhan, Andria Tayeh, Nagham Abu Baker
The award-winning Iraqi-Austrian filmmakers third feature tells the story of Sarah, a former mixed martial artist from Austria who thinks she’s found her dream job when she is hired to train the three daughters of a wealthy Jordanian family. But despite the luxurious surroundings, Sarah is soon feeling unnerved as she quickly discovers that the sisters are under constant surveillance and have little interest in learning to box.
‘Songs of Adam’
Director: Oday Rasheed
Starring: Azzam Ahmed Ali, Abdul Jabber Hassan, Alaa Najm
The Baghdad-born Arab American director blends drama and magical realism in this tale of two brothers — Adam and Ali. When they are instructed to witness their grandfather’s corpse being washed before burial, Adam, then aged 12, announces that he has decided not to grow up. And as the years pass, he doesn’t. The villagers, including Ali, believe he has been cursed. Only his two friends Iman and Anki see Adam’s condition as an innocence-preserving gift.
‘Red Path’
Director: Lotfi Achour
Starring: Ali Hleli, Yassine Samouni, Wided Dabebi
Tunisian director Achour drew on real-life events for this disturbing drama about a harrowing attack on two young shepherds by a violent jihadist group, leaving one dead and the other — 14-year-old Achraf — to take the head of his dead cousin back home as a warning to their community. Ali Hleli has drawn plaudits for his portrayal of Achraf. His casting was reportedly the result of a year-long audition process for the three main roles. The International Cinephile Society said the film was “a strong portrait of the horrors of regional violence and how children are often the collateral damage of this vicious cycle.”
‘Snow White’
Director: Taghrid Abouelhassan
Starring: Mariam Sherif, Karim Fahmy, Mohamed Mamdouh
Iman’s search for true love is complicated by her size — she stands just 119 centimeters tall. Since an arranged marriage is off the table, Iman takes to the internet, where her outsize personality and sense of fun can shine. But offline, her condition is still a problem, even causing her sister’s marriage offer to fall through once the family meet Iman. Egyptian filmmaker Abouelhassan’s film has already picked up awards at the Cairo Film Festival.
Saudi influencer Yara Alnamlah’s brand heads to Selfridges London
- Moonglaze’s UK launch is ‘just the beginning,’ founder tells Arab News
DUBAI: Moonglaze, the beauty brand founded by Saudi influencer Yara Alnamlah, is set to make history on Dec. 4 as the first Saudi beauty label to launch at Selfridges London.
For Alnamlah, this is much more than just a business accomplishment; it’s a cultural moment, she told Arab News.
“For Moonglaze to be the first Saudi beauty brand at Selfridges is an exciting and proud moment,” she said. “This isn’t just a win for us as a brand; it’s a moment of recognition for the Saudi and Arab beauty community as a whole. It shows that we’re not only consumers of global beauty trends but also creators who bring something unique to the table.”
Alnamlah emphasized that this launch will open doors for the brand beyond the Middle East.
“London is a beauty and fashion capital,” she said. “This exposure will undoubtedly help us expand beyond the Middle East, connect with international beauty lovers, and establish Moonglaze as a brand that brings Middle Eastern beauty innovation to the global market.”
The Selfridges debut will feature Moonglaze’s new blush range, designed to suit a variety of skin tones, Alnamlah said, adding that it represents the next step in Moonglaze’s evolution, complementing the brand’s existing highlighter sticks and multi-use brushes, which have already gained a loyal following.
The creation of Moonglaze has been a deeply personal one, shaped by Alnamlah’s background as a makeup artist. “Our products are inspired by my belief in healthy, glowing skin as the foundation of any great makeup look,” she said. This belief led her to begin her brand with skincare products before expanding to blushes and highlighters.
The use of ‘moon’ in the brand name is inspired by the fact that, in Arabic (qamar), it’s used as a description “someone who is perfectly luminous, just like the full moon,” according to Alnamlah.
“The idea of using makeup to highlight natural beauty rather than mask it is something that I wanted to reflect in every Moonglaze product,” Alnamlah added. “Growing up in Saudi Arabia, I’ve always been inspired by the cultural appreciation of beauty and the importance of glowing, radiant skin.”
Reflecting on the challenges and lessons of building her brand, Alnamlah shared how staying true to her vision has been key. “I’ve learned that beauty isn’t just about the products, but about how they make people feel,” she said.
Alnamlah has made a name for herself on the fashion circuit as a blogger, beauty influencer and makeup artist over the last few years. Besides her beauty brand, the architecture student is also an entrepreneur and has a coffee store called So Matcha in Riyadh.
In 2021, she was featured in French luxury fashion label Jean Paul Gaultier’s campaign as they celebrated Saudi Arabia’s 91st National Day — its first-ever launch dedicated to a Middle Eastern country.
The Selfridges launch marks a pivotal moment for Moonglaze, but Alnamlah’s ambitions extend far beyond London.
“The Selfridges launch is just the beginning,” she said. “We are excited to expand into more countries. As we grow, we’ll continue to innovate with new product launches and collections, like our blush range.
“The ultimate goal is to create a brand that empowers people to embrace their natural beauty,” she said.
Art under the stars: Noor Riyadh returns to dazzle Kingdom’s capital
- Fleet of drones illuminates Saudi capital for Noor Riyadh
- 18 Saudi, 43 international talents present light artworks themed ‘Light Years Apart’
RIYADH: The courtyards of the King Abdulaziz Historical Center in central Riyadh came alive on Tuesday evening with the launch of the Noor Riyadh Festival, attended by creatives from around the world.
London-based artist collective United Visual Artists transformed the night sky into a living canvas with a preview of their drone show “Aether.”
Featuring 1,500 drones, the seven-minute performance explored the silent harmony of the stars and planets.
Noor Riyadh Festival, a key initiative of the Riyadh Art, is being held under the theme “Light Years Apart” and will continue until Dec. 14.
This year, the festival will feature artworks by over 60 artists across three hubs: King Abdulaziz Historical Center, Wadi Hanifa, and Jax district.
Architect Khalid Al-Hazani, director of the Riyadh Art Program, said Noor Riyadh is designed to transform the city into an open-air art exhibition.
Festival director Nouf Al-Moneef told Arab News: “What’s great about these three is the connection between art, heritage, culture, nature — and also contemporary creativity in Jax.
“The most important thing in Noor Riyadh is accessibility for people. Noor Riyadh is under the umbrella of Riyadh Art, whose mission is to transform the city into a gallery without walls. Wherever you go and whatever locations or hubs that you go to, you find these spectacular art pieces.”
The festival aims to enhance the quality of life in the Kingdom’s capital and contribute to fostering creativity and presenting art to the community, he added.
It serves as a platform for artistic and cultural exchange in line with Riyadh Art’s objective to nurture local talent and boost the cultural economy of the capital.
In addition to 18 Saudi artists, 43 international artists are representing countries including Australia, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Montenegro, the Netherlands, Poland, Russia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Turkiye, the UK, the UAE, and the US.
Speaking about the theme, Al-Moneef said that “Light Years Apart” is inspired by the connection between the Earth and the sky, praising the curatorial team who came up with the idea.
The festival invites citizens, residents, and visitors to explore the city and to celebrate the deep connection between heritage and creativity.
Mohammed Al-Bahri, an Omani journalist, said what caught his attention the most during the opening ceremony was the stunning harmony between the lights and music, which created a unique and immersive sensory experience for the viewers.
In recent years, the Kingdom has witnessed cultural and artistic development, which has contributed to enhancing its position on the global art scene, he added.
“I expect that interest in artistic creativity will continue to grow in the future, especially with the increasing government support for arts and culture, as well as the growing awareness of the importance of art in people’s lives,” Al-Bahri said.
“Art will thus become an integral part of the social fabric. Moreover, the younger generation is more open and has a deeper appreciation for the arts, signaling a bright future for artistic creativity in the Kingdom,” he said.
Munirah Abdulrazaq, a Bahraini beautician, said: “The Noor Riyadh Festival is a remarkable celebration of light and art, transforming Riyadh into a luminous canvas that bridges the gap between tradition and modernity.
“The fusion of creativity, technology, and heritage enhances the cultural landscape and positions Saudi Arabia as a burgeoning hub for contemporary and public art. By celebrating local and global artists, the festival fosters a deep appreciation for artistic expression and cultural dialogue, highlighting the Kingdom’s dedication to nurturing creativity and inspiring future generations.”
