Mark Lowey, known by his Saudi friends as Abu Jack, offers rare images of Saudi Arabia’s Eastern Province during the 1970s

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Mark Lowey took what he calls an “early selfie” in the mirror of his room in the Abqaiq contractors camp, with his Olympus OM-2.
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Mark Lowey with his American friends Jim Sides and John Grimm, on a weekend desert excursion in 1979, near Shedgum. (Courtesy of Mark "Abu Jack" Lowey)
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A watermelon vendor in Hofuf in 1978. (Courtesy of Mark "Abu Jack" Lowey)
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A man carrying his purchases from Hofuf’s Qaisariah Souq. (Courtesy of Mark "Abu Jack" Lowey)
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An abandoned 1950 Ford truck in the desert in 1979. (Courtesy of Mark "Abu Jack" Lowey)
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Hofuf in 1978. (Courtesy of Mark "Abu Jack" Lowey)
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Alkhobar’s Kentucky Fried Chicken and Sizzler in 1978. (Courtesy of Mark "Abu Jack" Lowey)
Updated 23 September 2019
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Mark Lowey, known by his Saudi friends as Abu Jack, offers rare images of Saudi Arabia’s Eastern Province during the 1970s

  • A US oil engineer’s treasured photographs reveal a love affair with the Kingdom stretching back four decades
  • After working for two years in Saudi Arabia, Lowey took 12 months off to travel, including a trek in Nepal and India, and visits to Australia and New Zealand, before returning to California in 1981

DHAHRAN: From San Francisco, the hippie heartland of 1970s American counterculture, to Abqaiq, Aramco’s gated community and the largest oil facility in Saudi Arabia — Mark Lowey’s love of adventure took him on a journey that later defined his life. 

After graduating with a science degree specializing in construction engineering in 1977, Lowey was offered a job in San Francisco. But when the 21-year-old engineer heard that a friend had received an offer from another company that planned to send him to Saudi Arabia, he decided to take the leap.

“I was looking for adventure and ready to travel the world,” Lowey told Arab News. “It was pure luck that a company wanted to hire a graduate and send me to Saudi Arabia.”

For three months, he worked for Santa Fe International, a subcontractor, before being assigned to a remote job site in Abqaiq.  “We were building gas and oil-separation plants in Ain Dar and Shedgum,” he said. “The plants we built at that time still had flare shacks to burn the separated natural gas. Aramco’s gas-gathering program would begin 15 years later.”

As a project control engineer, Lowey was responsible for monitoring the progress of construction and scheduling work to be completed to a strict timetable.




The camel souq in Al-Ahsa in 1978. (Courtesy of Mark "Abu Jack" Lowey)

With no direct flights at the time, Lowey’s journey to Saudi Arabia took more than 24 hours, with connections in Atlanta, New York and London before arriving at today’s King Abdul Aziz air base, formerly known as Dhahran International Airport.

Fresh off the plane, Lowey was uncertain where to go as crowds of passengers crowded the airport. He walked into the arrivals hall where he spotted a man holding a sign bearing the company’s orange-colored Santa Fe International logo.

As the two men waited for other employees to arrive, Lowey observed different nationalities from the Arab world passing by. While some women were covered in black, others wore trendy, colorful clothing. 

“At Dhahran airport for the first time, I saw women wearing all kinds of clothes — modern and traditional. Many had niqabs (a piece of cloth that covered half of the face, revealing only the eyes). I think it was a time before wearing the niqab and hijab became a common trend,” he said.

Days before his trip, Lowey took time to study and learn about Saudi culture, history and its people. He found it fascinating that some Saudis lived in tents out in the desert. “It was the romantic version of the Arab culture I was expecting,” he said.

Lowey lived in the Abqaiq contractors camp, in a single room in a prefabricated modular building across the road from the Aramco community, where thousands of men from different countries worked for contracting companies supporting Aramco were housed.




Mark Liwey with with Abdulhadi Alsyari and his sons in their desert encampment in Fazran.  (Courtesy of Mark "Abu Jack" Lowey)

“There were Americans, Canadians, British. Other workers were from Thailand and the Philippines. There were Somalis and Egyptians. There were very few Saudi workers,” he said.

Living in the eastern deserts, Lowey wasn’t oblivious to events occurring in the region, but he recalled one memory that still stands out for him. “I was in Abqaiq when the shah of Iran fell in 1979. One American friend had fallen in love with a young woman from Tehran and was in Iran at that time. He had to leave his fiance and run away, over rooftops, to escape the ayatollah’s guards. He escaped back to Saudi, somehow. Much later, the woman was able to join him in the US and they were married.” 

Since 1979, the trend has been toward more traditional and conservative dress for women in the Middle East, he said.

“The Arab Spring in 2010-11 further accelerated the trend toward conservatism. Only now are we moving toward a more progressive Middle East.”

Growing up in California during the 1970s, life was easy and there were fewer rules. Arriving in Saudi Arabia, Lowey knew that there would be restrictions. He was worried that local people might dislike him and question why he was here — that feeling of discomfort familiar to those living in a foreign country. 




The Mystery Man in Blue: Bathan Mohammed Al-Ulayan Al-Marri, one of the Eastern Province's most famous water-well driller, responsible for finding more than 50 wells in the EP and Rub’ Al-Khali. 

Lowey had a friend, Rob Hardesty, who was in Alkhobar working for an irrigation company. Lowey looked him up, and found that he, too, was interested in exploring and meeting local people. “He introduced me to some of his Saudi friends and helped me get acquainted with the Kingdom.”

On one of their days off, the two men decided to venture into the desert in Hardesty’s pickup truck to test a new camera, an Olympus OM-2, which Lowey had bought in Alkhobar’s electronics souq.

“Both Rob and I were keen to become good photographers. We wanted to go out on weekends and experiment and take lots of photos,” he said.

Photographing people was not a simple matter, since some Saudis were not open to being photographed. The duo were discreet, however. With the Olympus hidden in a large bag, Lowey would take a picture and then quickly hide the camera from sight. “One time, my friends and I were in the women’s 

market in Hufof looking at some of the objects on display. I would say, ‘Hey, Rob, smile,’ and pretend to take a picture, but would photograph the woman behind him.

“We were probably a bit reckless, and if we had been seen by police or the Mutawa (religious police), they would object,” he said. “But I hardly saw any religious police in the Eastern Province during the 1970s. They were more common during the early 2000s.”

MYSTERYMAN

  • In 1978, while on a desert stroll with his friend Rob Harvesty, Mark Lowey encountered this Bedouin man walking alone near the Fazran Gas Oil Separation Plant. They stopped, exchanged a few words in their limited Arabic, and after he agreed to let Lowey photograph him, they went in opposite directions.
  • Throughout the years, Lowey wondered about this mysterious man in the navy-blue jacket, his story and and his tribe. When he returned to Saudi Arabia decades later, he asked his friend, Quriyan Al-Hajri, to help him solve the mystery. Al-Hajri was able to track down the man’s family, who told his story.
  • His name was Bathan Mohammed Al-Ulayan Al-Marri, and he was a famous water-well driller, responsible for creating more than 50 wells in the Eastern Province and Rub’ Al-Khali. “He would make water walls all around the desert,” Lowey explained. “Because the Bedouins had to have water, and before Aramco, there was no drilling of wells, they had to dig them by hand.”
  • Sadly, Lowey wasn’t able to meet Al-Marri, because he passed away in 2005.

Lowey wouldn’t have his photos developed in the Kingdom. Instead, he sent rolls of film out with friends going on vacation to the UK, US or Far East, and they would bring back prints. “Imagine the difference between seeing your photos on a digital camera or iPhone instantly. In 1978, I had to wait weeks to see my prints.”

After working for two years in Saudi Arabia, Lowey took 12 months off to travel, including a trek in Nepal and India, and visits to Australia and New Zealand, before returning to California in 1981.

“After living in Saudi and my Asia walkabout, I was changed. I had incredible experiences. I had met and become friends with people from so many different cultures.

“I thought of Saudi Arabia a lot. I loved my photos of the places I had visited and, especially, the pictures of the Bedouin.”

Lowey stayed in the US for five years, got married and then, as a newlywed, moved to Kuwait for a new job. He spent three years working in Kuwait, and his first son, Jack, was born there. In 1988, Lowey and his family left Kuwait and returned to the US.

Lowey never thought that one day he might return to Saudi Arabia. But his final project before retirement brought him back to the place where he first started working. In 2013, three decades after leaving the Kingdom, Lowey landed in Dhahran.

“My last project was representing the Projects Department as OE (Operational Excellence) representative and implementer. Starting in 2015, Aramco began using OE principles and methods to improve quality and reliability in the company,” he said.




Faleh Al-Hamra, renowned in Abqaiq as a “camel whisperer,” with his first-born son Bdah, swaddled according to Bedouin tradition. Bdah, now 41, is a shift supervisor at Aramco’s Shedgum gas plant.  (Courtesy of Mark "Abu Jack" Lowey)

During his time in Aramco, there were Bedouin families who lived near his job site. Lowey enjoyed watching them and was keen on getting to know them. “I frequently met Bedouin, either passers-by traveling on the migration routes, or families who camped for extended periods near the site, attracted by Aramco’s permanent water supply,” he said.

His brief encounters often involved nothing more than a simple wave, a smile and the traditional Arabic greeting.

“It wouldn’t be long before my minimal abilities in Arabic would be put to the test. I would soon embark on a lasting friendship with two Bedouin tribes — a friendship lost and rediscovered more than three decades later.”

Lowey returned in 2013 and again in 2016, and was reunited with the some of the same families that he befriended in the late 1970s.

“They were just overwhelmed with joy that I remembered them. I took the effort to become friends with them again, and they welcomed me as a brother and as a son. I am part of their family. They honored me with the title Abu Jack (father of Jack). I love the name.” 

After returning to the Kingdom, Lowey saw how much the Bedouin culture had changed. “The big difference has been the nomadic lifestyle. It has disappeared now, pretty much.”

Lowey said that living and working in the Kingdom during the 1970s would have been similar to the Old West in America during the 1800s. “A young guy like me, as a graduate, I could easily go and find work and make business as there were fewer regulations. I could succeed, learn a lot, and contribute to the economy and society,” he said. 

When Lowey and his wife visited Saudi in March this year for an Aramco expats reunion, he was able to witness the changes first-hand, including women driving, greater public freedoms, and the return of music and theater.

“We had been following the progress initiated by the late King Abdullah and Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman. It is refreshing, and we hope good and positive progress continues,” Lowey said.


Saudi foundation discovers largest recorded sea turtle nesting site in Red Sea

Updated 02 November 2024
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Saudi foundation discovers largest recorded sea turtle nesting site in Red Sea

  • Discovery of site marks significant milestone in Saudi Arabia’s environmental conservation efforts

RIYADH: The Saudi General Organization for the Conservation of Coral Reefs and Marine Turtles in the Red Sea announced on Saturday it had identified the largest recorded sea turtle nesting site in Saudi waters.

Located on the Four Sisters Islands in the Red Sea, the discovery of the site marks a significant milestone in Saudi Arabia’s environmental conservation efforts, the Saudi Press Agency reported.

Khaled Asfahani, the organization’s CEO, said that the Four Sisters Islands had been designated as a protected area for sea turtle species management.

“These islands are essential habitats for endangered turtle species in the Red Sea, including the green turtle and the critically endangered hawksbill turtle. Protecting these sites is vital for the survival of these species, given that they return to these same nesting grounds each year,” he said.

The Four Sisters Islands — Marmar, Daharb, Malatu and Jadeer — have been identified as critical nesting areas with more than 2,500 recorded turtle nests. The islands are a crucial breeding ground for endangered species in the region.

Asfahani said that conserving the habitats is a strategic priority, as their survival supports the broader Red Sea ecosystem, essential for maintaining biodiversity.

The organization is developing a management plan to protect more than 180 identified beach nesting sites along the Red Sea coast in Saudi Arabia.

Its environmental teams are also working to enhance sustainable tourism and eco-friendly entertainment opportunities around the ecosystems, Asfahani said.

Sea turtles are a vital component of the Red Sea ecosystem and contribute to the area’s biological and environmental balance.


Jeddah Motor Show attracts 300,000 visitors

Updated 02 November 2024
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Jeddah Motor Show attracts 300,000 visitors

  • The event highlighted a range of the latest vehicles and innovations

JEDDAH: The Jeddah Motor Show concluded on Saturday evening, having welcomed approximately 300,000 visitors and more than 250 journalists from around the world over its five-day run from Oct. 29 at Superdome Jeddah, according to the organizers.

The event highlighted a range of the latest vehicles and innovations, from cutting-edge electric vehicles to sports cars, passenger cars, motorcycles and intelligent driving systems. It also included the show’s first global premiere — the Kia Tasman — alongside the first appearances in the Kingdom of new models and advanced technologies from global brands including Peugeot, MG, Geely, Haval, Toyota, and Lexus.

The show appeared to have attracted many visitors considering purchasing new cars. One of them, Abdulaziz Al-Khalf, told Arab News that he had been waiting a long time for the show so he could select a new car for his family.

“Instead of moving around from one agent to another, I just waited to see all types of cars under one roof,” he said. “I made my decision and am looking forward to getting my contract signed at the agency’s showroom next week.”

The show also provided a glimpse of the future with concept cars. A visitor from Taif, Ahmed Al-Najjar, said: “It was a great opportunity for me to explore the latest advancements in automotive technologies, because for me it is what interests me most, since I specialize in innovation. I was really impressed to see the latest electric cars.”

Majed Al-Shikhi, a well-known car expert, described the Jeddah motor show as a testament to the evolving nature of the automotive industry in Saudi Arabia, from the rise of electric vehicles to brands’ commitment to sustainability and innovation. “The event provided valuable insights into the future of mobility,” Al-Shikhi said.

Beyond the cars, the show also offered entertainment and interactive experiences designed for all ages.


First public Day of the Dead celebration held by Mexican Embassy

Updated 02 November 2024
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First public Day of the Dead celebration held by Mexican Embassy

RIYADH: In a historic evening, the Embassy of Mexico in Riyadh publicly hosted the Day of the Dead celebration for the first time in Saudi Arabia, opening the doors for everyone to experience the country’s rich cultural heritage and ancient traditions.

“We are thrilled, we are very happy. This is the first time that we are celebrating this cultural tradition open to the public — most of the time we used to do some small gatherings inside the Embassy, but for the first time we are doing it open to the public,” Mexico’s ambassador to the Kingdom, Anibal Gomez Toledo, told Arab News.

“Since Saudi Arabia and its Vision 2030 is embracing the world’s cultural expressions, I think this is an opportunity to get together, to invite our Saudi friends, to invite the international community, and to get together all of us in this important cultural activity for Mexicans and Mexican supporters,” the ambassador explained.

The embassy’s celebration for Dia de Muertos, known as the Day of the Dead in English, was held at the UN World Tourism Organization in Riyadh on Friday and welcomed ambassadors from other countries, locals and Mexicans living in Saudi Arabia.

Samer Al-Kharashi, director of the UN World Tourism Organization’s regional office in Riyadh, gave the opening address, saying that in 2003, UNESCO proclaimed the festival an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

“Day of the Dead is an international celebration now, it is one recognized by UNESCO as a Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2003,” Toledo said.

“This means that it attracts the entire world — a lot of nationalities, and you can see here there are people here from Mexico, from Latin America, from Europe, from Saudi and the Middle East.”

During his remarks, the ambassador said that the Day of the Dead is one of Mexico’s most profound and ancient traditions because of its powerful significance in terms of history, culture, and tradition and the great interest it has captured throughout the world.

“Around the Day of the Dead, families visit the cemetery, arrange the graves, and gather to place altars and offerings for their late loved ones to welcome them back during their quick visit. In almost all Mexican houses, wherever we are, families set up an altar with traditional decorations, flowers, their favorite meals and drinks, and their pictures,” he explained.

During Friday’s event, an altar was featured dedicated to prominent Mexicans who have promoted Mexico internationally.

“Personalities such as Octavio Paz, winner of the Nobel Literature Prize; Alfonso García Robles, winner of the Nobel Peace Prize; and Frida Kahlo and Sor Juana Ines de la Cruz, recognized ambassadors of Mexican cinema and art,” the ambassador explained.

“We honor their memory with this event that we dedicate to them today.”

During his speech, Gomez underlined: “Besides vindicating an ancient Mexican tradition today, this cultural activity confirms Saudi Arabia’s current moment as a friendly country to the world’s cultural expressions.”

Traditional foods and drinks were served during the celebration, including bread of the dead and hot chocolate, which are usually enjoyed on the days of Dia de Muertos from Nov. 1-2.

On the sidelines of the event an exhibit of photographs by Mauricio Silerio showcased black and white skeletal symbols associated with the festivities.


Thrift stores in Saudi Arabia: A rising trend with surprising costs

Updated 02 November 2024
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Thrift stores in Saudi Arabia: A rising trend with surprising costs

RIYADH: Thrift shopping, long associated with affordable and unique finds, has taken Saudi Arabia by storm.

But what is catching the attention of fashion-conscious Saudis is not just the idea of sustainable fashion, but also the rising price tags attached to these second-hand gems.

While thrift stores globally offer a budget-friendly alternative to fast fashion, in Saudi Arabia, this trend comes with a twist: Items, though pre-loved, can be surprisingly expensive.

As sustainable fashion becomes more mainstream, the appeal of thrift shopping has transcended its traditional boundaries. Saudis now seek out vintage treasures and one-of-a-kind fashion pieces, even if it means paying a premium.

One of the key players in this evolving market is Darah, a textile recycling startup founded by Rawan Al-Deraibi.

Al-Deraibi explained how Darah differentiates itself from traditional recycling methods: “At Darah, we’re redefining textile recycling by transforming discarded clothes into new, exciting creations.

“Unlike traditional methods that focus solely on material recovery, we give textiles a second life as ‘flipped’ fashion items, unique home decor pieces and much more. Our approach emphasizes creativity and sustainability, turning waste into functional and stylish products that tell a story.”

While thrift stores globally offer a budget-friendly alternative to fast fashion, in Saudi Arabia, this trend comes with a twist: Items, though pre-loved, can be surprisingly expensive. (Source: @thriftanthrivee)

Winning a prestigious innovation award has propelled Darah to the forefront of sustainable fashion in Saudi Arabia, but for Al-Deraibi it is clear that this is only the beginning: “Our vision is to expand our presence in the fashion scene by deepening our collaborations with like-minded designers, sustainable brands and forward-thinking businesses. We’re excited to explore partnerships that push boundaries — whether through joint collections, upcycling workshops, or innovative fashion events that bring attention to the importance of circular fashion.”

For more information, follow Darah on Instagram: @darah.thrift.

On the other side of the spectrum is Thrift and Thrive, a small thrift store started by two friends, Norah and her partner, Alanoud Khaled, who share a passion for sustainable shopping. What makes their store unique is the personal touch they add to each item they sell.

“We’re two girls. We have different personalities and tastes, so, because of that, we had a variety of items — some vintage and some new,” said Norah.

Thrift and Thrive carefully curates its collection to maintain a balance between vintage treasures and modern trends, all while keeping sustainability at the heart of its business. “We listen to what our customers want and try to source what they want.”

Despite the growing trend of thrift shopping in Saudi Arabia, Norah was initially uncertain about how it would be received. “We decided to open a thrift shop knowing there’s almost no thrift site in Saudi: That’s what made us so excited to open one. We saw how people in Saudi felt open and comfortable about the thrifting concept.”

Thrift and Thrive’s popularity has continued to grow, fueled by the increasing interest in sustainable fashion and Norah’s commitment to expanding its impact. “With the rise of sustainability, we focus to grow Thrift and Thrive by inspiring people to embrace eco-friendly fashion. We want to reach more people who love this style and help the community thrive.”

Follow Thrift and Thrive on Instagram: @thriftanthrivee.

The public’s response to thrift shopping in Saudi Arabia reflects this growing trend, but not all experiences have been positive. While some shoppers are thrilled by the unique items they find, others have expressed concerns about the pricing.

Mohanned Saqar found that the prices he encountered in Saudi Arabia were much higher compared to his experiences abroad: “Thrifting is supposed to be cheap, but the prices here are very high, especially considering these are used items. Outside of Saudi Arabia, I’ve found great thrifted pieces at much lower prices. It just doesn’t make sense to pay so much for something that’s pre-owned.”

Nadia Yassin, another passionate thrift shopper, sees thrift shopping as both a creative and economic choice: “The idea that you find a unique piece with a story shared by the person who owned it before is fascinating. Then, matching it with a whole outfit adds to the experience.

“On the other hand, it helps reduce consumption by re-wearing items that are already made. The creative part in restyling the piece is what I find most exciting. Economically, I think it’s a more suitable option than buying new.

“Half of my wardrobe is thrifted, and when people ask about my outfit, I tell them I bought it for a certain amount and that it’s thrifted. A few people around me have been influenced and joined me, making it one of the most enjoyable experiences.”

For Sara Al-Ansari, thrifting is a chance to save money while finding one-of-a-kind items.

“Personally, thrift stores do really offer a unique experience,” she said. “Each piece of clothing carries a story, a history of the person who owned it before.

“When I thrift, I’m not just getting a low price, I’m connecting with those past lives and experiences. It’s like a tangible link to different times and places, allowing me to appreciate the individuality of each item. Plus, there’s something special about giving these clothes a new life, reducing waste and promoting sustainability.”

For those looking for more budget-friendly thrift options, Haraj remains a popular choice. Haraj markets sell everything you could ever think of, mostly used items ranging from furniture to clothing and electronics, often at prices significantly lower than in formal stores. Haraj Bin Qasim in Riyadh operates on a similar model, offering used goods at affordable prices, making it a haven for bargain hunters.

As more Saudis begin to appreciate the environmental and personal value of thrift shopping, the trend is expected to continue growing.

For those eager to explore this growing trend, @saudi.thrift is hosting an event in November 2024, where thrifting enthusiasts can gather and share in this sustainable fashion movement.

For now, thrift stores like Darah and Thrift and Thrive are not only thriving, but also helping to shape a new retail landscape — one where sustainability meets style, and where every item has a story waiting to be rediscovered.


Saudi Arabia condemns flare-up of violence in Sudan

Updated 02 November 2024
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Saudi Arabia condemns flare-up of violence in Sudan

  • Continued escalation of fighting in Sudan has impacted women and children

RIYADH: Saudi Arabia has condemned on Saturday the recent flare-up of violence in the eastern side of Sudan’s Al Jazeera State, which caused deaths among civilians.

The foreign ministry, in a statement, expressed the Kingdom’s concern over the continued escalation of fighting in Sudan that has impacted women and children, the Saudi Press Agency reported.

Saudi Arabia “condemns the recent [violence] in the eastern part of Al-Jazeera State, which resulted in a number of deaths and injuries among civilians, as this constitutes a violation of international law and the principle of protecting civilians.”

The Kingdom has also “urged the warring parties to ceasefire, end the conflict and facilitate the delivery of humanitarian aid to those affected. The Kingdom reaffirms its position in supporting the stability and unity of Sudan.”

Sudan plunged into conflict in mid-April 2023, when long-simmering tensions between its military and paramilitary leaders broke out in the capital Khartoum and spread to other regions including western Darfur.

The war has killed more than 24,000 people so far, according to Armed Conflict Location and Event Data, a group monitoring the conflict since it started.

Britain, which assumed the presidency on Friday of the Security Council for November, said the 15-member body would meet in Sudan on Nov. 12 to discuss “scaling up aid delivery and ensuring greater protection of civilians by all sides.”

“We will be shortly introducing a draft Security Council resolution ... to drive forward progress on this,” Britain’s UN Ambassador Barbara Woodward told a press conference.

She said the draft would focus on “developing a compliance mechanism for the warring parties’ commitments they made on the protection of civilians in Jeddah over a year ago in 2023 and ways to support mediation efforts to deliver a ceasefire, even if we start local ceasefires before moving to a national one.”

A resolution needs at least 9 votes in favor and no vetoes by the US, France, Britain, Russia or China to be adopted.

The move comes as a three-month approval given by Sudanese authorities for the UN and aid groups to use the Adre border crossing with Chad to reach Darfur with humanitarian assistance is due to expire in mid-November.

With agencies