Saudi artists present new work at Diriyah Contemporary Art Biennale

Dana Awartani, Standing on the Ruins of Aleppo, 2021. (Supplied)
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Updated 20 January 2022
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Saudi artists present new work at Diriyah Contemporary Art Biennale

  • A selection of pieces specially commissioned for the Kingdom’s inaugural biennale, which runs until March 11 and includes work by Saudi and international artists

‘World Map’

Maha Malluh

The Jeddah-born artist’s piece is a continuation of one of her best-known series, “Food for Thought,” in which she uses found objects with a particular cultural resonance for Saudis to create images and/or words. Her “World Map” consists of 3,840 audio cassettes of religious readings, divided into 48 bread-baking trays. “Decades ago, people would gather to listen to these tapes, as if communing for a meal,” the show catalogue explains. “By incorporating cassettes, many works in this series also grapple with the shift in Arab society from the spoken word to a fast-paced, visual culture.” This particular piece, however, “alludes to new forms of global connectivity that emerged from the outbreak of COVID-19,” when — denied much of what constitutes our physical community — many of us found togetherness in the sharing of audiovisual media from across the world; from the streaming giants of Netflix and Amazon Prime to social media platforms such as Tik-Tok and YouTube.

‘Standing by the Ruins of Aleppo’

Dana Awartani

The Jeddah-born artist’s installation is typical of her focus on the destruction or erosion of cultural heritage. Its subject, the ancient Grand Mosque of Aleppo, was seriously damaged during the Syrian Civil War. Awartani has Syrian heritage (as well as Palestinian, Jordanian and Saudi) so the topic has a personal connection for her. She created a large-scale replica of the mosque’s courtyard using adobe bricks made from clay earth taken from across the Kingdom. She chose not to include a binding agent in the bricks, so her work will inevitably crack over time. “The work makes a lost piece of cultural heritage accessible again,” the catalogue states. “Meanwhile, Awartani’s use of adobe, a low-cost material suffused with meaning and collective memory through its role in vernacular architecture, suggests a note of hope and communal resilience.”

‘Birth of a Place’

Zahrah Al-Ghamdi

The Jeddah-based artist’s work “explores tensions between the country’s traditions and globalization, often through the lens of her hometown, Al-Baha,” according to the show catalogue. “She is inspired by the domestic architecture of the city as well as the natural beauty of the area, though her work also considers what is lost to the Kingdom as it undergoes breakneck urban development.” This particular piece, though, is based on the site of this biennial, Diriyah, and “serves as an elegy to the ancestral foundations of the town.” Al-Ghamdi spent time wandering the deserted clay houses in the area before creating the work, which consists of shapes that surely mimic the high-rise skylines typical of the rapid urban development witnessed in the Gulf in recent decades, and which Al-Ghamdi describes as “sky-high kicks of a fetus in a mother’s womb.”

‘Soft Machines/Far Away Engines’

Sarah Brahim

Brahim is a singer and dancer, and was commissioned to create this projection-mapped video performance — a “choreographic essay” — “to impart a sense of the transcendent.” The filmed performance consists of planned and improvised movements, and individual and group gestures. “As motion moves through the body to its border, there must be a point where it breaks through and becomes part of the social body, the transmission from individual to common territory,” the catalogue states. Brahim spoke to Arab News earlier this year about her use of “structured improvisation” in her work. “I use this approach because I care about capturing a specific feeling or experience and having it resonate in others,” she said. “Being open to the medium that works to communicate and being open enough to listen deeply to where things are coming from keeps me grounded.”

‘Manifesto: The Language & City’

Abdullah Al-Othman

Al-Othman is a poet as well as a multimedia artist. As such, he includes the written word in many of his artworks — often scripture from the Qur’an. “His work explores human struggles as he documents the people that inhabits the cities he visits,” the catalogue explains. This new piece is about his hometown, though — the Saudi capital city, Riyadh. Al-Othman used LED and neon lighting, lightboxes and found wooden signage from his city’s streets to create this fun, eye-catching large-scale installation in which he “condenses the city to its visual and architectural language. In this way, the work becomes an artistic manifesto of the city.”

‘This Sea Is Mine’ 

Marwah Al-Mugait

Al-Mugait’s work for the biennale is a video installation and performance-art piece that “uses vocals and movements to revive ancient practices and create a new form of transcultural solidarity in an era marked by geopolitical friction, mass migration, and diaspora.” The Riyadh-born artist uses traditional chants from three very different indigenous populations in this piece — one from the Far East, one from South Africa, and one from the Gulf. The latter — fijiri — is a traditional sea chant used as an “auspicious ritual” for sailors and pearl divers. “These disparate cultural forms come together to create unexpected human connections, highlighting the similarities between different cultures and proposing a metaphorical bond of solidarity between nations,” the catalogue states.

‘The Alphabet’

Lulwah Al-Homoud

Riyadh-born artist Al-Homoud presents a web of programmable LED neon strip lights which, when a visitor approaches, become brighter, beckoning them closer. The installation is, according to the catalogue “the culmination of Al-Homoud’s 20-year project investigating the relationship between geometry and the Arabic alphabet. Now a hallmark of her work, these patterns are made by deconstructing Arabic script and applying ancient mathematical principles to their forms, creating a new mode of expression within the revered tradition of calligraphy.” Al-Homoud has previously told Arab News that her calligraphy is not meant to be “read” in the straightforward traditional way: “It is not direct,” she said. “It will ask people to look more deeply to be able to figure out what is written.”


Eva Longoria joins In Conversation lineup at Red Sea International Film Festival

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Eva Longoria joins In Conversation lineup at Red Sea International Film Festival

DUBAI: Hollywood actress Eva Longoria has joined the all-star lineup of speakers at this year’s Red Sea International Film Festival in Jeddah, set to run from Dec. 5-14 in Culture Square in Al-Balad.

She joins previously announced speakers Egyptian star Mona Zaki and Oscar winner Viola Davis, as well as this year’s head of the jury Spike Lee.

The raft of speakers this year also includes filmmaker Michael Mann (“Ferrari”), Egyptian writer and director Mohamed Samy (“Detention Letter”) and Turkish stars Engin Altan Düzyatan and Nurgül Yeşilçay. Also joining the lineup are Indian superstars Ranbir Kapoor and Kareena Kapoor Khan.

In the festival’s Souk Talents program, aimed at up-and-coming creatives, Hollywood star Andrew Garfield will deliver a talk.

The festival will feature 120 films from 81 countries at the new venue — previous editions were held at the city’s Ritz-Carlton hotel — where five purpose-built cinemas and a large auditorium will host back-to-back screenings as well as In Conversation panels with celebrities.


Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio talks Saudi expansion amid ‘cultural revolution’

Updated 28 November 2024
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Aquazzura’s Edgardo Osorio talks Saudi expansion amid ‘cultural revolution’

DUBAI: Fans of Italy-based luxury shoe brand Aquazzura are in good company, with the likes of Princess of Wales Kate Middleton, Beyonce and Meghan Markle showing off the label’s heels on numerous occasions. With new boutiques in Riyadh and Jeddah, creative director and founder Edgardo Osorio sat down with Arab News to discuss his decision to tap into the Saudi market.

The brand, founded in 2012, is going through a speedy expansion in the region with new boutiques opening in the Kingdom, Bahrain and Kuwait in 2024, with another UAE boutique sscheduled for 2025. This is after the brand’s first regional outlet opened in Dubai in 2018.

The brand's new boutique in Riyadh. (Supplied)

“It’s a very special time to be in Saudi and be a part of cultural revolution,” the Colombian designer said of his foray into Saudi Arabia at Riyadh’s Centria Mall and Jeddah’s Al-Khayyat Center — the brand’s first mono-brand concept stores in the country.

 “We have a very large Saudi clientele already existing, at the shop here (in Dubai) the shop in London, and the shop in Paris, so for us it was a natural step.”

Fashion aficionados the world over will be familiar with Aquazzura’s often-copied designs, including the gem-encrusted Tequila Collection, the sparkling Gatsby Collection and the popular Twist line with its butter soft nappa leather and double padded insoles.

While a distinct focus on attention-grabbing heels is part of the Aquazzura design ethos, Osorio is keen to reiterate that the brand was born out of a desire to provide comfort. (Supplied)

“The best sellers are the best sellers worldwide, but I think that Saudi women tend to dress up more,” Osorio said of Saudi footwear trends.

While a distinct focus on attention-grabbing heels is part of the Aquazzura design ethos, Osorio is keen to reiterate that the brand was born out of a desire to provide comfort.

“The reason (this) exists is because one summer I was invited to 13 weddings. I went to 12 … and I noticed women complaining about their shoes — and this was a time pre-designer sneakers, pre-there being all heel heights … Comfort was a dirty word in fashion at the time,” he said.

“And so I said … there’s an opportunity in the market to make beautiful, comfortable shoes because if you can choose, which one would you choose?”

That savvy insight proved to be the making of a designer who showed his fashion chops from a young age, interning at fashion companies in his native Colombia at the age of 14 before moving to London to study at the London College of Fashion at 16.

The Aquazzura boutique in Riyadh’s Centria Mall. (Supplied)

After dropping out to pursue a career at Italian accessories label Salvatore Ferragamo, Osorio found himself as the head of footwear at Roberto Cavalli at just 23.

His own venture began with the study of the human foot, a far cry of the glitz and glam of the red carpet where Osorio’s designs would end up.

“I worked with a technician who had been studying the human foot and making shoes for over 40 years and the way (our) shoes are constructed, the weight of your body is more evenly distributed … so our shoes are more ergonomic. The weight of your body is more evenly distributed between the front, the arch and the back.

 “I also use extra-soft materials and I put in memory foam,” he said. “Almost nobody works like this. I don't know why except for me … and so obviously women feel the difference.”

The brand also boasts handbags and jewelry. (Supplied)

Women and fashion’s leading awarding bodies, it seems, for Osorio has just been named Footwear News’s 2024 Designer of the Year — a prestigious prize in the international style industry.

Osorio was named Designer of the Year once before, in 2015, and he is part of a cohort of previous winners including Jordanian Romanian celebrity designer Amina Muaddi, London-based Charlotte Olympia Dellal and Italy’s Gianvito Rossi, among others.

“It’s obviously a huge honor to be recognised by my peers and by Footwear News … this is a very pivotal moment for the brand,” he said.

“(We are) part of a major expansion for the brand, in the major face of growth in a difficult moment, people are believing in us and people are choosing to buy and wear Aquazzura.

“When I launched Aquazurra, we were in the middle of an economic depression and everyone was telling me ‘you’re crazy to open a brand and to leave Cavalli’ … I read somewhere ‘crisis means opportunity’ … and in the moment of crisis is when you need to get crafty and creative,” he said.

Twelve years on, as his latest gilded boutique in the Middle East joins his growing list of international outlets, it seems the designer took a step in the right direction.


Red Sea International Film Festival 2024: The award contenders — part one

Updated 28 November 2024
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Red Sea International Film Festival 2024: The award contenders — part one

DUBAI: The first half of our rundown of the films in competition at this year’s RSIFF, which begins Dec. 5 

‘Saify’ 

Director: Wael Abumansour 

Starring: Osama Alqess, Aixa Kay, Baraa Alem, Nour Alkhadra 

It’s no surprise that the Kingdom’s sole directorial representative in competition at this year’s Red Sea International Film Festival (several of the other films are Saudi-backed, however) comes from the groundbreaking Telfaz11 studio, of which Abumansour is the head. “Saify” — his second feature, following “Carnival City,” which opened the festival in 2020 — is set in the year 2000, and is a satirical take on Saudi Arabia’s conservative clerics that centers on the forty-something title character, a “washed-up confidence trickster who owes money to everyone, including his ex-wife,” who runs a small cassette shop where he sells banned hard-line religious sermons. “When Saify finds a tape containing a scandalous recording of the influential Sheikh Assad, he thinks he’s finally in the money,” the synopsis states. “Saify” seems set to continue Telfaz11’s practice of pushing cultural boundaries.  

‘Superboys of Malegaon’ 

Director: Reema Kagti 

Starring: Adarsh Gourav, Vineet Kumar Singh, Shashank Arora 

Hindi-language comedy drama inspired by a 2008 documentary about a group of DIY filmmakers in the titular Indian city who make spoofs of Bollywood movies as a form of escapism. This film spans a couple of decades from the late Nineties, and centers on photographer and videographer Nasir Sheikh who runs a failing cinema with his brother Nihal. When Nasir starts to make Bollywood parodies tweaked to fit Malegaon’s local culture, he becomes something of a local celebrity — a situation his ego is ill-equipped to deal with. Variety said it is “a moving ode to filmmaking,” adding that “few films have been as adept at capturing why people still go to the movies.” 

‘Hanami’ 

Director: Denise Fernandes 

Starring: 

Fernandes’ beautifully shot debut feature is set in her ancestral home of Cape Verde and is a coming-of-age tale spanning three periods of the life of the title character Nana. First as a toddler, after her mother Nia leaves the island in search of a better life, then in a magical-realist sequence in which Nana journeys to the foot of a volcano in the hope of curing her sickness, then with Nana as a teenager, reflecting on the community of women who have raised her and a reunion with her birth mother.  

‘To a Land Unknown’ 

Director: Mahdi Fleifel 

Starring: Angeliki Papoulia, Mahmood Bakri, Mohammad Ghassan 

“To a Land Unknown” might be Fleifel’s fiction debut, but its themes will be familiar to anyone who has seen his documentaries. Chatila and Reda are Palestinian refugees living in Athens, trying to save up for fake passports so they can move to Germany. But when Reda blows all their money on heroin, Chatila is drawn into a risky smuggling operation. Variety called it “a confident, angry, fully-realized drama which should see its makers afforded further opportunities to craft similarly vital work.” 

‘Moon’ 

Director: Kurdwin Ayub 

Starring: Florentina Holzinger, Celina Sarhan, Andria Tayeh, Nagham Abu Baker 

The award-winning Iraqi-Austrian filmmakers third feature tells the story of Sarah, a former mixed martial artist from Austria who thinks she’s found her dream job when she is hired to train the three daughters of a wealthy Jordanian family. But despite the luxurious surroundings, Sarah is soon feeling unnerved as she quickly discovers that the sisters are under constant surveillance and have little interest in learning to box. 

‘Songs of Adam’ 

Director: Oday Rasheed 

Starring: Azzam Ahmed Ali, Abdul Jabber Hassan, Alaa Najm 

The Baghdad-born Arab American director blends drama and magical realism in this tale of two brothers — Adam and Ali. When they are instructed to witness their grandfather’s corpse being washed before burial, Adam, then aged 12, announces that he has decided not to grow up. And as the years pass, he doesn’t. The villagers, including Ali, believe he has been cursed. Only his two friends Iman and Anki see Adam’s condition as an innocence-preserving gift.  

‘Red Path’ 

Director: Lotfi Achour 

Starring: Ali Hleli, Yassine Samouni, Wided Dabebi 

Tunisian director Achour drew on real-life events for this disturbing drama about a harrowing attack on two young shepherds by a violent jihadist group, leaving one dead and the other — 14-year-old Achraf — to take the head of his dead cousin back home as a warning to their community. Ali Hleli has drawn plaudits for his portrayal of Achraf. His casting was reportedly the result of a year-long audition process for the three main roles. The International Cinephile Society said the film was “a strong portrait of the horrors of regional violence and how children are often the collateral damage of this vicious cycle.” 

‘Snow White’ 

Director: Taghrid Abouelhassan 

Starring: Mariam Sherif, Karim Fahmy, Mohamed Mamdouh 

Iman’s search for true love is complicated by her size — she stands just 119 centimeters tall. Since an arranged marriage is off the table, Iman takes to the internet, where her outsize personality and sense of fun can shine. But offline, her condition is still a problem, even causing her sister’s marriage offer to fall through once the family meet Iman. Egyptian filmmaker Abouelhassan’s film has already picked up awards at the Cairo Film Festival. 


Saudi influencer Yara Alnamlah’s brand heads to Selfridges London 

Updated 28 November 2024
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Saudi influencer Yara Alnamlah’s brand heads to Selfridges London 

  • Moonglaze’s UK launch is ‘just the beginning,’ founder tells Arab News 

DUBAI: Moonglaze, the beauty brand founded by Saudi influencer Yara Alnamlah, is set to make history on Dec. 4 as the first Saudi beauty label to launch at Selfridges London.  

For Alnamlah, this is much more than just a business accomplishment; it’s a cultural moment, she told Arab News.  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by @moonglaze

“For Moonglaze to be the first Saudi beauty brand at Selfridges is an exciting and proud moment,” she said. “This isn’t just a win for us as a brand; it’s a moment of recognition for the Saudi and Arab beauty community as a whole. It shows that we’re not only consumers of global beauty trends but also creators who bring something unique to the table.” 

Alnamlah emphasized that this launch will open doors for the brand beyond the Middle East.  

“London is a beauty and fashion capital,” she said. “This exposure will undoubtedly help us expand beyond the Middle East, connect with international beauty lovers, and establish Moonglaze as a brand that brings Middle Eastern beauty innovation to the global market.”  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by @moonglaze

The Selfridges debut will feature Moonglaze’s new blush range, designed to suit a variety of skin tones, Alnamlah said, adding that it represents the next step in Moonglaze’s evolution, complementing the brand’s existing highlighter sticks and multi-use brushes, which have already gained a loyal following.  

The creation of Moonglaze has been a deeply personal one, shaped by Alnamlah’s background as a makeup artist. “Our products are inspired by my belief in healthy, glowing skin as the foundation of any great makeup look,” she said. This belief led her to begin her brand with skincare products before expanding to blushes and highlighters. 

The use of ‘moon’ in the brand name is inspired by the fact that, in Arabic (qamar), it’s used as a description “someone who is perfectly luminous, just like the full moon,” according to Alnamlah.  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by @moonglaze

“The idea of using makeup to highlight natural beauty rather than mask it is something that I wanted to reflect in every Moonglaze product,” Alnamlah added. “Growing up in Saudi Arabia, I’ve always been inspired by the cultural appreciation of beauty and the importance of glowing, radiant skin.”  

Reflecting on the challenges and lessons of building her brand, Alnamlah shared how staying true to her vision has been key. “I’ve learned that beauty isn’t just about the products, but about how they make people feel,” she said. 

Alnamlah has made a name for herself on the fashion circuit as a blogger, beauty influencer and makeup artist over the last few years. Besides her beauty brand, the architecture student is also an entrepreneur and has a coffee store called So Matcha in Riyadh.  

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A post shared by @moonglaze

In 2021, she was featured in French luxury fashion label Jean Paul Gaultier’s campaign as they celebrated Saudi Arabia’s 91st National Day — its first-ever launch dedicated to a Middle Eastern country. 

The Selfridges launch marks a pivotal moment for Moonglaze, but Alnamlah’s ambitions extend far beyond London.  

“The Selfridges launch is just the beginning,” she said. “We are excited to expand into more countries. As we grow, we’ll continue to innovate with new product launches and collections, like our blush range. 

“The ultimate goal is to create a brand that empowers people to embrace their natural beauty,” she said.  


Art under the stars: Noor Riyadh returns to dazzle Kingdom’s capital

Updated 28 November 2024
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Art under the stars: Noor Riyadh returns to dazzle Kingdom’s capital

  • Fleet of drones illuminates Saudi capital for Noor Riyadh
  • 18 Saudi, 43 international talents present light artworks themed ‘Light Years Apart’

RIYADH: The courtyards of the King Abdulaziz Historical Center in central Riyadh came alive on Tuesday evening with the launch of the Noor Riyadh Festival, attended by creatives from around the world.

London-based artist collective United Visual Artists transformed the night sky into a living canvas with a preview of their drone show “Aether.”

Featuring 1,500 drones, the seven-minute performance explored the silent harmony of the stars and planets.

Noor Riyadh Festival, a key initiative of the Riyadh Art, is being held under the theme “Light Years Apart” and will continue until Dec. 14.

This year, the festival will feature artworks by over 60 artists across three hubs: King Abdulaziz Historical Center, Wadi Hanifa, and Jax district.

Architect Khalid Al-Hazani, director of the Riyadh Art Program, said Noor Riyadh is designed to transform the city into an open-air art exhibition.

Festival director Nouf Al-Moneef told Arab News: “What’s great about these three is the connection between art, heritage, culture, nature — and also contemporary creativity in Jax.

“The most important thing in Noor Riyadh is accessibility for people. Noor Riyadh is under the umbrella of Riyadh Art, whose mission is to transform the city into a gallery without walls. Wherever you go and whatever locations or hubs that you go to, you find these spectacular art pieces.”

The festival aims to enhance the quality of life in the Kingdom’s capital and contribute to fostering creativity and presenting art to the community, he added.

It serves as a platform for artistic and cultural exchange in line with Riyadh Art’s objective to nurture local talent and boost the cultural economy of the capital.

In addition to 18 Saudi artists, 43 international artists are representing countries including Australia, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Montenegro, the Netherlands, Poland, Russia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Turkiye, the UK, the UAE, and the US.

Speaking about the theme, Al-Moneef said that “Light Years Apart” is inspired by the connection between the Earth and the sky, praising the curatorial team who came up with the idea.

The festival invites citizens, residents, and visitors to explore the city and to celebrate the deep connection between heritage and creativity.

Mohammed Al-Bahri, an Omani journalist, said what caught his attention the most during the opening ceremony was the stunning harmony between the lights and music, which created a unique and immersive sensory experience for the viewers.

In recent years, the Kingdom has witnessed cultural and artistic development, which has contributed to enhancing its position on the global art scene, he added.

“I expect that interest in artistic creativity will continue to grow in the future, especially with the increasing government support for arts and culture, as well as the growing awareness of the importance of art in people’s lives,” Al-Bahri said.

“Art will thus become an integral part of the social fabric. Moreover, the younger generation is more open and has a deeper appreciation for the arts, signaling a bright future for artistic creativity in the Kingdom,” he said.

Munirah Abdulrazaq, a Bahraini beautician, said: “The Noor Riyadh Festival is a remarkable celebration of light and art, transforming Riyadh into a luminous canvas that bridges the gap between tradition and modernity.

“The fusion of creativity, technology, and heritage enhances the cultural landscape and positions Saudi Arabia as a burgeoning hub for contemporary and public art. By celebrating local and global artists, the festival fosters a deep appreciation for artistic expression and cultural dialogue, highlighting the Kingdom’s dedication to nurturing creativity and inspiring future generations.”