Hollywood-loved Lebanese footwear designer Andrea Wazen to reopen flagship Beirut store
Wazen has grabbed the attention of celebrities such as Kylie Jenner, Beyonce and Jennifer Lopez
Updated 27 December 2022
Arab News
DUBAI: Lebanese footwear designer Andrea Wazen is reopening her flagship store in Beirut.
“I’m so happy to announce that we’re finally reopening an Andrea Wazen flagship store! More than two years later and where it all started, in Beirut,” wrote Wazen in an emotional Story post on Instagram.
“I honestly lost hope several times as many others I’m sure, but there is something about this city — the joie-de-vivre and positivity of its people, despite all the misery, that inspires me. I didn’t think I missed it this much, the comfort of having a home to my brand. Comfort which was taken away from me and many by force,” she continued, referring to the Aug. 4 blast that shook Beirut, and which forced Wazen to shut shop after damage to her wares.
Since launching her eponymous label in Beirut in 2013, Wazen has gone on to become one of the biggest names in footwear design, grabbing the attention of celebrities such as Kylie Jenner, Beyonce and Jennifer Lopez.
Saudi artist Fatimah Al-Nemer discusses her female-centric works and the ‘universe within’ Arab women
Updated 1 min 31 sec ago
Rawaa Talass
DUBAI: Saudi artist Fatimah Al-Nemer has devoted herself to depicting narratives of women through her multimedia art, which merges collage, photography and tapestry. From childhood, her life was shaped by the female presence, she says, whether that meant family members or characters in legends.
Al-Nemer comes from Al-Qatif in the Eastern Province, one of the oldest cities in the Kingdom. “Imagine,” she says, “it’s an area that existed 600 years before Jesus.” She now lives on Tarout Island just off the coast of Al-Qatif. The island’s name is possibly derived from Ishtar, the Mesopotamian goddess of love and war — it was here that she was expelled, abandoned by her community.
“Color of Life.” (Supplied)
Al-Nemer claims that every household in her hometown holds some form of artist within its walls. “Al-Qatif’s rich cultural history affected us all,” she says. “It was a magical city, attracting tradespeople from Persia and Anatolia. We grew up with these stories.”
Her mother, who had an eye for design, was her earliest supporter. She provided her daughter with art materials and didn’t even scold her for painting on the walls of their family home. “She even paid for my art classes,” Al-Nemer says. “She always called me the artist of the family. If my mother wasn’t by my side, it would have been impossible for me to become an artist.”
For the young Al-Nemer, drawing and painting was her only outlet for self-expression. “As a child, I was fearful and endured social anxiety, so I would only express myself through art,” she says. “It boosted my confidence. I used to draw on walls and on paper. If I was sad or happy, I would draw about what was making me feel that way. I was impacted by art and it became a language for me.”
Al-Nemer with “Malak,” one of her works. (Supplied)
By the time she was 18, Al-Nemer had shifted from taking art classes to teaching them, and had already participated in some exhibitions. She also worked as a jewelry designer in a gold factory. And in 2009 she took the decision to travel abroad to further her studies.
She went to Jordan, where she enrolled as an interior design student at the Philadelphia University in Amman, exposing herself to a cultural openness offered by the capital city.
“In Jordan, people were highly cultured. Its environment was rich with artists and poets. You’re not just studying art there, you’re also going to the theater. I even performed there,” she says.
In the early days of her art career, Al-Nemer experimented with oil paintings and charcoal, depicting classical, surrealistic and symbolist scenes. At one point, she was solely making self-portraits, which she says caused some issues with family members and others, particularly when they were published in magazines and newspapers.
“Gold.” (Supplied)
“I think I was saying: ‘I am Fatimah. Accept me for who I am. I am an artist and I represent this identity and my culture and I am proud of it,’” she explains.
Eventually, though, she expanded her focus to include women other than herself. She has been inspired by personal stories from fellow Saudi women. “I used to listen and live their stories as if I was the heroine of their tales,” she says.
In her large, detailed, carpet-like artworks, which are full of ornamentation and native cultural symbols, she pays tribute to Saudi and Arab women, adorned in traditional attire while holding objects related to her homeland, such as a musical instrument or an incense burner. They reflect her attachment to her roots.
“Princess of the North 1.” (Supplied)
“I try to embody the Arab woman with certain admirable qualities. She is the butterfly, the mother, the sister, the doctor. She is the giver,” says Al-Nemer. “She is not just a figure; there is a universe within her. It is like a letter of appreciation for all that she stands for and has given to society.”
She also treats these images, which she started making nearly a decade ago, as research-like documentation of traditional Saudi dress and cultural symbolism, focusing on specific areas of the Kingdom (beginning, of course, with her own hometown).
Often, she depicts women with their mouths or eyes covered. In part, this is to encourage viewers to focus on the details surrounding the women in her portraits, but it also reflects some of the creative limitations she experienced when younger, when it was frowned upon to make figurative art in the Kingdom. Now, however, as Saudi Arabia opens up, she feels more free in her practice.
“As artists, our lives have changed 180 degrees,” she says of the current Saudi cultural scene. “Art has become more than a profession.”
New visa rules have made it easier than ever for Gulf tourists to visit the island nation
Updated 16 min 12 sec ago
Shaistha Khan
TORONTO: Sri Lanka has long been a favored destination for visitors from the Gulf. Easy access, budget-friendly offerings, and diverse experiences – from cultural and historic landmarks to idyllic beach resorts and scenic treks – make it an ideal getaway destination. And now, there’s one more reason for Saudis to take a trip to the island nation. Last month, the Sri Lankan government announced that residents of Saudi Arabia, the UAE, Qatar, Oman, and 31 other countries can now visit without a visa.
The capital, Colombo, is probably the most popular destination in Sri Lanka, along with Kandy and Ella, but the less-frequented areas in the central and southern regions of the country are well worth considering.
The Summerville Bungalow in Hatton. (Supplied)
My Sri Lanka trip started in Hatton, in the Nuwara Eliya region. Often called “Little England,” the region is a reminder of the country’s former colonial rule, with Tudor-style architecture and sprawling tea estates named after their former British proprietors.
The central province is home to Sri Lanka’s renowned tea highlands. Tea is an integral part of the island’s history and culture — as its former name, Ceylon, suggests.
My encounter with Ceylon tea starts at the Dunkeld Tea Factory, owned by The Dilmah Group, a family-run business that has become a global name. The tea is single-origin — meaning it is picked, cultivated, and packed from the lush, rolling terraces of the region. The tour takes guests through the history of Ceylon tea, which actually began with coffee plantations in the 18th century. But leaf disease devastated those plantations, leading to the demise of the short-lived coffee industry in Sri Lanka. In 1867, James Taylor, a Scottish man, planted the first tea clearing in Kandy. By the late 19th century, the country had become one of the largest tea producers in the world. Guests are also invited to a tea-tasting experience, including the Orange Pekoe, the robust tea blend that is a specialty of the region.
The terraces of a tea plantation around the Ceylon Tea Trail. (Supplied)
I stayed at Summerville, one of the five palatial bungalows once home to English plantation owners which have now been refurbished into boutique properties by the Ceylon Tea Trails Hotel under the Resplendent Ceylon Group. Perched at nearly 4,000 feet and set across 2,000 hectares, the bungalows are perfect for those seeking a slow, luxurious vacation. Guests can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the emerald hilltops from various vantage points or unwind in the several tranquil lounge spaces scattered throughout the bungalows. Or — with a private chef and butler on hand — choose to indulge in a five-course dinner that features the likes of a Yatawatte tea-infused roasted chicken or the Earl Gray fondant.
The tea trails, ranging from four to 15 kilometers long, connect the various bungalows, offering scenic hikes through the valleys. For those seeking adventure, the newly-inaugurated Pekoe Trail (a 300-km route with 22 phases) allows tourists to explore the rich biodiversity of the area. This trail can be experienced on foot or by rail.
The Wild Coast Tented Lodge in Sri Lanka. (Supplied)
The next leg of my trip was drastically different. As we were making our way down from the central region to Sri Lanka’s southern tip, the hilltops, winding roads, and cool weather gave way to palm trees, speedy tuk-tuks, and tropical weather.
In the Hambantota district, the biggest draw is undoubtedly Yala National Park, the second largest national park of the country, and the one with the highest density of leopards. An early morning or afternoon game drive provides ample opportunities to spot wildlife, including the elusive leopard, sloth bears, and elephants.
After the adrenaline rush of a wildlife safari, I head to our ‘glamping’ lodge — the Wild Coast Tented Lodge, another one of Resplendent Ceylon’s properties. The luxury camp is unfenced and wildlife will often wander into the premises from the park, giving guests a sometimes-gleeful, sometimes-terrifying experience.
The lodge itself is an architectural delight, focusing on sustainable design and the use of organic materials, including bamboo. It includes 28 “cocoons” or pods scattered throughout the jungle wilderness. The interiors feature rustic touches like cooper hardware, a leopard-claw bathtub, and vintage leather furniture.
It’s also here that the jungle meets the Indian Ocean. As I wandered along the rugged coastline or enjoyed a sundowner, I was once again reminded of the serenity that Sri Lanka has to offer.
Best and Worst: Saudi gamer Xzit Thamer talks gaming, favorite shows
Updated 21 min 52 sec ago
Shyama Krishna Kumar
DUBAI: The Saudi gamer, streamer and social media personality talks gaming, favorite shows and how to have a productive day.
Best TV show you’ve seen?
“The Walking Dead.” They knew how to make a story about zombies and survival horror in a very good way. I've watched a lot of things related to zombies, but the story for “The Walking Dead” was perfect.
Worst TV show you’ve seen?
“Friends.” It felt very fake. I hate it so much.
Best advice for an up-and-coming gamer/streamer?
Don’t give up. Consistency is the key. I've been creating content for more than 11 years now. It took me six years to get to a million followers — it took me so many years to succeed. But I didn't give up. And I was consistent. So keep trying. Keep pushing.
Worst advice for an up-and-coming gamer/streamer?
To change what you’re doing. Like, I'm a gamer; if I change my content to something else that I don't love, I wouldn’t succeed.
Best advice you've ever been given?
Don’t overthink. You know what you know. Just get started.
Worst advice you've ever been given?
I was told I was wasting my time.
Best game you’ve ever played?
“Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas.” It has the best storyline. It’s about someone who left home to start a new life and then his mom dies and he has to come back to try and fix things. It also has cool gameplay and it’s the game that made me famous on streaming.
Worst game you’ve ever played?
I hate all horror games. I played “Resident Evil” when I was very young and it was so scary that I threw the disc off the top of my building. I was so traumatized.
Best gaming console?
The PlayStation 5. I don’t see the PS5 as a console, I see it as a family member or, like, a teacher. I learned to speak English back in the day because of the PlayStation. I kept a small dictionary with me — this was before I had the internet — so I could understand the games I was playing. Now, after all these years, I’m part of the PlayStation Playmakers team.
Worst gaming console?
It’s not a console but I don’t enjoy PC gaming. It’s got great graphics and everything but it’s not very comfortable for playing games. It’s not as fun.
Best subject at school?
Sports. I loved playing football. And, to be honest, I loved sports because then I didn’t have to be studying.
Worst subject at school?
I sucked at maths. Never got it.
Best holiday destination?
My favorite city is Dubai. I love going there. I’ve been there more than 30 times. I just can’t get enough. It’s the perfect city.
Worst holiday destination?
I went to Italy and I found it so boring. Plus, the food wasn’t great and, if you’re travelling, good food is a must.
Best way to have a productive day?
Wake up early. If I wake up late, I’m in a bad mood. I’m usually up between 5 or 6 a.m.
Worst way to have a productive day?
Overthinking. If you get stuck thinking about a bad interaction or incident, you know you’re going to kill your time.
Sotheby’s to stage first live auction in Saudi Arabia in February 2025
The inaugural auction and public exhibition will take place in the Saudi heritage site of Diriyah
Updated 07 November 2024
Rebecca Anne Proctor
DUBAI: Sotheby’s has announced it will stage the first ever live auction in Saudi Arabia in February 2025. Taking place in the historic town of Diriyah, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the birthplace of the Saudi state, located northwest of Riyadh, the auction will offer modern and contemporary artworks, Islamic objects, jewelry, watches, cars, sports memorabilia and handbags, among other items.
Titled “Origins,” the live auction will take place on Feb. 8, 2025, presenting global offerings and fine art by both home-grown Saudi artists and leading names in international art history.
Ahmed Mater, Untitled (Diptych from The Illumination Series), Offset lithograph and gold leaf on paper with tea and pomegranate toning, 174 by 225cm, 2012. (Courtesy Sotheby's)
The auction will take place as a two-part evening auction and will be preceded by an exhibition of the contents of “Origins,” that will be showcased in a free, public exhibition, open from Feb. 1 – 8.
“This auction - and indeed our incorporation - is the culmination of many years of supporting cultural initiatives in the Kingdom, and a natural evolution of our business,” Edward Gibbs, chairman of Sotheby’s Middle East & India, told Arab News.
“We have been travelling to Saudi for a number of years, working with clients who are based there, as well as meeting new collectors in the region, and have been supporting the Ministry of Culture’s exciting endeavors –not least with all of the editions of the biennale, where we have provided an educational component, with specialist talks and tours,” he added.
Increasingly, said Gibbs, Sotheby’s saw that Saudi Arabia was a space rife for a growing art market and live auctions, proven by its fast paced development, young demographic, growing collector base and the increasing presence of the regional and international art community.
“The auction comes hand in hand with our opening of an office in Riyadh, so marks a new chapter in our activities in Saudi — a phase that we are entering with great optimism and ambition,” Sebastian Fahey, managing director of Sotheby’s Global Fine Arts, told Arab News. “Alongside the inaugural sale, our activities will also continue to include educational offerings around art, luxury and collecting, as this is something we strongly believe in.”
The auction and exhibition will be staged in the historic Diriyah, the ancestral heart of the nation, where the
First Saudi State was inaugurated just under two decades before Sotheby’s was established in 1744. (Supplied)
“The art market has never been quite so international, and this opening complements our global network, particularly in the Middle East, which has long been a region we have believed in and invested in,” stressed Fahey.
Diriyah is a significant place to stage Saudi Arabia’s first-ever live auction. In the historic town, now developing as one of the Kingdom’s gigaprojects, the First Saudi State was inaugurated just under two decades before Sotheby’s was established in 1744.
At present, Diriyah is transforming into a local and global hub for art, culture and high profile events in the Kingdom, connecting its past and present through heritage and creativity.
Inside Elie Saab’s fashion empire ahead of his Riyadh showcase
Ahead of his show in Riyadh this week, Arab News looks back at the acclaimed Lebanese designer’s career
Updated 07 November 2024
Claire Carruthers
DUBAI: Reinvention is a term the fashion world is very familiar with: Heads of houses come and go, archival signatures are foraged and flipped, collections strategically expanded or cut according to social media impressions or sales success. For most brands there’s a continuous necessity to pivot. Not Elie Saab. The Lebanese designer has cleverly curated an empire with slow, measured precision, bolstered by an absolute belief in the art of craftsmanship.
“The code of my collections will always remain the same,” the glamour-focused Saab has often stated, referring to his luxury pairing of Western silhouettes with a Middle Eastern flair for ornamentation and embellishment. Rather than reinvent the wheel, he fine-tunes, dreaming up multi-generational investment pieces that are studied, worked and tweaked to perfection — an approach that has garnered him a loyal following and an impressive 45-year legacy.
To mark this anniversary (and simultaneously show some love to his longtime Saudi supporters), Saab is joining forces with Riyadh Season to host what promises to be an immersive one-of-a-kind fashion spectacle in the Saudi capital on Nov. 13. Titled “1001 Seasons of Elie Saab” — a nod to the famed “One Thousand and One Nights” collection of Arabic folktales — the event will forgo a standard runway presentation in favor of a theatrically orchestrated tableau of models, live music and 300 fresh looks for Fall 2025.
“We will be preparing something unprecedented and new to mark this important occasion,” Saab said during a press conference in London earlier this year, “and celebrate the city of Riyadh as it continues to support creativity and the diversity of culture in the region.”
Whether by way of the soundtrack, set design or the clothing itself (which will be styled by former French Vogue editor, Carine Roitfeld), a nod to his hosts’ aesthetic sensibilities seems inevitable. After all, his relationship with the Kingdom is an important one, cemented last year with the opening of a spacious flagship store in VIA Riyadh that carries his most recent ready-to-wear and bridal collections, childrenswear, accessories and fragrances, in addition to a private haute couture salon. The space itself — all white walls, marble floors and plush carpets — was designed and furnished by another of his exploits, Elie Saab Maison.
Carolina Mendes, Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld, Elie Saab Jr, Designer Elie Saab and Carine Roitfeld attends the Elie Saab Paris Womenswear Spring-Summer 2025 show as part of Paris Fashion Week on September 28, 2024. (Getty Images)
Such a broad portfolio might be the norm for fashion’s biggest conglomerates with major financial backing, the likes of LVMH or Kering, say, but in Saab’s case, as an independent designer, it’s especially impressive given where he started from. Born and raised in Damour, a coastal suburb of Beirut, he was barely 10 years old when he began teaching himself how to sew. Apart from a single year spent at a fashion school in Paris, his education was shaped by instinct, imagination and circumstance. Long before the rest of the fashion world woke up to their environmental misdemeanours, Saab was dressing his sister in scraps of fabrics from their mother’s closet. Sustainable design was simply a necessity.
In 1982, aged 18, he opened his own studio in war-torn Beirut — an act of loyalty to the city he refers to as his “Queen” — and navigated his way through a civil war that had been raging in Lebanon since 1975, displacing almost a million people including members of Saab’s own family. His commitment to his heritage, to the Lebanese people, their resilience, optimism and creativity, is unshakeable. Following the Beirut Port blast on Aug. 4, 2020, which caused 218 deaths, thousands of injuries and US$15 billion in property damage, Saab responded with a tribute collection titled “Beyrouth, Source Eternelle.”
Claudine Saab, designer Elie Saab, Jennifer Lopez and Elie Saab Jr pose at the backstage prior to the Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 show. (Getty Images)
“I want people to talk about Beirut in a positive way,” he told Arab News in March 2021, “and remember that (the city) is not all those bad things they are seeing.”
Saab’s determination to make the best of a truly bad situation is a common trait in his country where, despite it all, creativity is flourishing. Beirut remains the region’s home of couture, spawning a design collective that includes Zuhair Murad, Georges Hobeika, Georges Chakra and Rabih Kayrouz, plus an ever-expanding roster of rising talent: Racil, Roni Helou, Hussein Bazaza, Cynthia Merhej, and Sandra Mansour, who trained under Saab and recognises his influence within her choice of diaphanous fabrics and delicate embroidery.
“The biggest lesson I learned (from working with Saab) is the importance of staying true to your vision,” says Mansour. “He has always had a deep understanding of what women want to feel when they wear a dress — powerful, elegant, and confident — and his attention to detail and craftsmanship is unmatched…that’s what makes it timeless.”
Halle Berry brought Saab to the attention of Hollywood when she accepted her 2002 Academy Award in a standout sheer embroidered gown with a crimson taffeta skirt of his design. Since then, he has found himself dressing everyone from Middle Eastern royalty (Queen Rania of Jordan famously wore one of his gowns for her coronation ceremony in 1999) to Julia Roberts and Beyoncé.
Halle Berry accepting her 2002 Best Actress Oscar in an Elie Saab gown. (AFP)
“It is true that I know all of them and that we are friends — the person matters to me and how the relationship started and goes on,” Saab told Arab News in March 2021. “When you deal with Meryl Streep, (for example), even with all her glory and despite all the awards she has won, you feel how simple she is. I like people who are modest.”
“Fast-fashion,” “trend-led” and “disposable” are not part of Saab’s vocabulary and despite an increasingly digitally focused market, he remains one of few designers able to prioritize perfectionism and the personal touch. A year after his Oscars moment, he became the first Arab designer to be admitted to the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, where he continues to present his most creatively elaborate work. For now, though, fashion’s spotlight and the female gaze is set firmly on Saab’s return to Riyadh and a hotly anticipated front row.
