DUBAI: First off, a trip to South Korea is expensive. There’s no two ways about it. A return trip from Dubai costs in excess of $2,300 unless you opt to spending two days travelling in each direction. I chose the former.
There’s a perception that if you love Japan, you’ll also love South Korea. In fact, I found that South Korea was nothing like Japan. But why should it be? The Japanese dynasty ended a long time ago. Korea feels more humble, less in-your-face.
Seoul — the capital city — is large, clean, and very Western. The Metro system is busy and frequent, but unlike the public transport networks in the West, it feels safe. People are conscious of each other’s personal space and with a population of just over 10 million they need to be. But there’s no obvious fear of crime, everyone seems to have their heads buried in their phones. (For tourists, that might be because they’re checking their Korean translation app, an absolute necessity.)
Starfield library. (Shutterstock)
To get the real vibe of this sprawling city — which is not dissimilar to Manhattan in New York — it’s worth walking the skyscraper-lined streets.
There are coffee shops pretty much everywhere you look. And in the malls, food courts are filled with baked goods, noodles and all varieties of meat. And while the fare is OK, none of it feels especially Asian, and judging by comments made by chefs this writer knows, Korea is not a place for foodies.
There’s a wide assortment of tours on offer — including a full day at the Demilitarized Zone on the North Korean border, which costs around $100 but is worth the effort and investment just to see across to the North with the guard posts in the distance and the 100-meter-high mast carrying the North Korean flag. You can also walk along a very claustrophobic tunnel dug by the North Koreans into the south.
Jeju Island. (Shutterstock)
Back in Seoul, the Starfield Library boasts a vast collection of 50,000 books in shelves that scale two floors – a must for those seeking an Instagrammable moment. There’s also a kitsch tribute to the novelty pop hit “Gangnam Style” — if indeed that is your style.
Seoul’s Anguk area is worth spending some time in; the art galleries and cafés have a youthful buzz and the Artist Bakery offered some beautifully mellow coffee and a huge selection of moreish salted butter bread treats.
There’s much to see in South Korea outside of Seoul, of course. And a three-hour trip on the bullet train takes you to the small(ish) city of Busan in the south east of the peninsular, where things feel much less Westernized. It’s a city crammed with markets and malls, selling anything and everything.
Find a hotel overlooking the water — there’s a lot of it and the fish market offers the chance to eat pretty much anything that is found in there. Be warned though, this place might look like a budget meal awaits you, but you can easily spend in excess of $40 for some octopus and something called “spoon worm” sashimi — the latter resembling a very particular internal organ.
Gamcheon Cultural Village. (Shutterstock)
Gamcheon Cultural Village — an assembly of narrow lanes and small pastel-colored houses on the side of a hill — provides stunning views down the valley towards the sea; another place for Insta-moments. And the Songdo cable car is worth a ride for the equally spectacular photo-ops.
Busan also provides plenty of opportunity to sample authentic and delicious Korean street food, just don’t be put off by the aesthetics of some of the outlets.
My final stop was Jeju Island — an hour away by plane — where I spent a few days ambling about, taking in the beautiful coastline with its jagged volcanic rocks. From the many bus tours on offer, the east and south were the highlights. The Yeha Bus Tour is particularly good, with stops including Stone Park, an ancient village, and the 600-step climb up Seongsan Sunrise Peak for some stunning panoramic views of the volcanic crater and surrounding area (followed by the slow hobble back down).
South Korea is certainly a destination worth visiting, but with a necessary proviso: Make sure you have plenty of disposable income so you can create memories that don’t break the bank.
