DUBAI: For a chef of Thomas Keller’s caliber — he has multiple restaurants with long-held three Michelin stars, has concepts that are regularly rated among the World’s 50 Best Restaurants and he has several James Beard awards under his belt — entering a new market is no light matter. With a successful career spanning more than 40 years behind him, and his name firmly embedded in the culinary world’s hall of fame as one of the greats, he probably does not even need to expand across the globe.
However, he has entered the Middle East region for the first time with not one but three outlets of Bouchon Bakery — one in Dubai and two in Kuwait — and he credits this entirely to Mohammed Al-Shaya, scion of the Al-Shaya retail and F&B empire that brought the franchise here.
“He made me come here. His organization and team gave me a great sense of confidence for us to be able to execute what we do at home, here,” said Keller, who made a whistle-stop trip to the region to officially launch the Dubai outlet recently.
“It’s all about relationships for me. Ours began over three years ago and he’s proven to me that not only is he a wonderful human being, we have a wonderful friendship that’s come out of this, but his business sense and ability to perform is unparalleled.”
Keller’s first encounter with the region was, in fact, nearly 10 years ago, when he had come here on a recce trip, during which time he had advised the authorities that they need to invest in farms and education to develop the culinary scene.
While that side of the industry has definitely evolved, he still feels that it might be a bit too premature to think about bringing some of his other upscale restaurant concepts — like The French Laundry and Per Se or even Bouchon Bistro — to the region.
“Right now, this is the right brand for me to put my foot into the Middle East, without becoming too ambitious,” he explained. “A restaurant is very different, you have to get too many different (fresh) ingredients and that requires a lot of time to source from the right people. It’s too early to start thinking about bringing other concepts here. We have to think about building relationships with suppliers, with the farmers and fishermen.”
Describing Bouchon Bakery as a traditional French boulangerie, Keller states clearly that he is not reinventing the wheel. “I’m trying to create a café that you would find in Paris, or Lyon or Marseilles… that’s always been what Bouchon Bakery is about, it’s what you would find in an urban area in France. And it’s nice to see all the little details we worked on come together here.”
All the Middle East-based locations manage to recreate that authentic French café vibe quite successfully — from the elegant, warm décor complete with bistro chairs, coffered walls and vintage lamps to the fittingly-traditional food.
The menu includes delectable pastries, artisanal breads, a selection of salads and sandwiches and mouthwatering macarons (they do gift boxes too) all freshly made on-site, plus Keller’s custom coffee blend created by Equator Coffees and Teas.
Some tweaks tailored to the region have been made, however.
“We’ve made certain modifications and introduced some things specifically for our Middle East outlets,” he said. “The rosewater Paris-brest or the mango éclair, for example, is very regional for us, but apart from a few items on the menu, most everything else is exactly as it would be at home (in the US).”
The standard of food and service is also on par with his international outlets, something Keller appears to be very happy with. “I’m so proud of the quality of work the team here does — the kitchen team, the baking team, the service team — I think they are doing an extraordinary job,” he says. “I had this meal prepared for me by some of our chefs in Kuwait and I was blown away with the food. The chefs here, they get it.”
This humility and generosity of spirit seems integral to the success story of this no-nonsense chef and astute restaurateur, although he puts it down to hard work and dedication. Passing on most of the credit to the team on the ground, he uses the analogy of a sports team to define his trajectory.
“Being a cook is exactly like being an athlete. We practice and practice, sometimes we succeed, sometimes we don’t — but we always want to come back and do it all again tomorrow. Every athlete is emotionally attached to their job — that’s what cooking is like,” he said. “And the other aspect is having a strong sense of collaboration with the team. I believe in recognizing people for what they’ve achieved, because the more elevated you become in your career, your job becomes that of being a leader, of teaching and mentoring and that’s very important. The chefs in my team are better than I am — if they weren’t, that means I haven’t done a good job.”
If his measures of success are a strong team and “giving guests an experience they will remember,” then do the numerous awards he has garnered mean anything?
“I can’t explain why I’ve got all these awards — I go to work, do my job. Someone wants to give me a medal, I say thank you very much and go back to work,” he said matter-of-factly. “But remember, every award that you receive is for what you did yesterday — what are you doing today and what you are going to do tomorrow, that’s more important. We’re working on today and tomorrow.”
Meet the world-renowned chef who is baking up a treat in the Middle East
Meet the world-renowned chef who is baking up a treat in the Middle East
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Madeo’s at VIA Riyadh
Madeo at VIA Riyadh offers a charming Italian experience, bringing the warmth and flavors of Italy to Saudi Arabia.
Known for its classic pasta and pizza, Madeo excels in creating dishes that are simple yet packed with flavor. The live pasta station allows diners to watch as chefs prepare favorites like penne Madeo, featuring tomato sauce, basil, and Parmigiano Reggiano — a comforting and classic Italian taste.
Another favorite is the melanzane alla parmigiana, a dish combining layers of eggplant, mozzarella, and tomato sauce to create a hearty, cheesy delight.
The pizza selection includes the four-cheese pizza, which brings together gorgonzola, mascarpone, goat cheese, and mozzarella, topped with a hint of truffle oil for an aromatic finish.
The burrata pizza, featuring fresh and sun-dried tomatoes, adds a balance of creamy and tangy flavors that’s simply delightful.
For dessert, diners can enjoy Madeo’s classic tiramisu or hazelnut-filled profiteroles, both of which bring a sweet, satisfying end to the meal. Drinks like the basil smash, a mix of basil leaves, apple juice, and tonic, and the amaretto sour with orange and lemon juice, add refreshing options to complement the Italian flavors.
One downside is that parking at VIA Riyadh is not complimentary, which could be inconvenient for some guests.
Nevertheless, Madeo’s warm ambiance, authentic Italian dishes, and live Italian music make it a perfect destination for anyone looking to enjoy Italian cuisine in a lively setting.
For more information, check their Instagram @madeoristorante.sa.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Otium Concept’ in Jeddah
- The dessert selection continues the theme of indulgence with offerings including rose lokum cheesecake adorned with fresh petals, and an apple tarte fine served with vanilla ice cream
Otium Concept is located in Fayfa Avenue Mall on Prince Sultan Road in Jeddah. It is a lifestyle store and restaurant/cafe inspired by the glamour of art deco salons.
The cafe offers a thoughtfully crafted menu that combines international comfort foods with artisanal ingredients. Breakfast options include classics such as eggs Benedict on brioche and the cafe’s signature Beirut breakfast, featuring foul, labneh, and halloumi.
For lighter options, there are wholesome choices like Greek yogurt bowls with granola and honey, or acai bowls topped with fresh berries.
Starters, including burrata with pesto and tomato caviar, and beetroot carpaccio with hazelnuts and goat cheese, are well-presented, while from the main courses, the grilled pistachio salmon is a highlight, offering a delicate-yet-rich flavor profile, while the honey mustard chicken provides a savory-sweet experience with a tender, juicy texture.
The dessert selection continues the theme of indulgence with offerings including rose lokum cheesecake adorned with fresh petals, and an apple tarte fine served with vanilla ice cream.
The menu also features hearty salads and sourdough open sandwiches including spicy chicken or lobster, offering a comforting and satisfying meal on the go, as well as fresh pasta dishes such as lemon spaghetti and penne arrabbiata.
With its sophisticated-but-inviting atmosphere, Otium promises a dining experience that is both comforting and refined, making it a great choice for any occasion. Otium also offers catering services.
The boutique provides a distinct shopping experience, showcasing handpicked pieces from celebrated European designers. The space feels like a curated gallery, with brands including Forte Forte, Jamin Puech, and Yavi offering clothing, accessories, shoes, bags, and even decorative home items.
Otium also embraces its cultural side with an impressive collection of art and antiques, curated by architect Ibrahim Radwan. The gallery space features an eclectic mix of sculptures and paintings, blending history with modernity. Notable pieces include a Napoleon III-era mantel clock, an antique bronze statue of a German soldier, and vintage French candelabras.
Check @otiumconcept on Instagram for more details.
Where We Are Going Today: ‘Le Relais de l’Entrecote’ in Jeddah
- No French meal would be complete without dessert, and Le Relais de l’Entrecote offers an array of indulgent options to finish on a sweet note
Le Relais de l’Entrecote, located at Fayfa Avenue on Al-Tahlia Street in Jeddah, offers a French dining experience that brings a piece of Paris to the city. Every element of this restaurant, from its traditional bistro decor to the attentive hospitality, reflects the essence of France.
The atmosphere inside is cozy and intimate, while the outdoor terrace provides an ideal setting for open-air dining when the weather is right.
Known for its single-dish concept, Le Relais de l’Entrecote serves only one main course: a classic steak and fries. This approach, honed since the restaurant’s beginnings in Paris in 1959, allows the chefs to perfect their offering.
The meal kicks off with a simple, flavorful green salad tossed in a mustard vinaigrette and garnished with crushed walnuts. Following this, diners are served a tender steak, cooked to their liking, and accompanied by crispy fries.
Though the menu is straightforward, the quality and attention to detail elevate the dining experience. While waiting for the main course, guests are treated to a basket of freshly baked French baguette. Be cautious, though — the bread is so delicious, it can be tempting to fill up before the main event arrives.
No French meal would be complete without dessert, and Le Relais de l’Entrecote offers an array of indulgent options to finish on a sweet note.
Among the choices are creme brulee, with its delicate, caramelized crust; a strawberry melba with fresh strawberries, vanilla ice cream, and a splash of red currant coulis; and chocolate profiteroles, which feature light pastry filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with warm chocolate sauce and toasted almonds.
Other delights include the rich Sevigne chocolate cake served with Chantilly cream; the refreshing raspberry sorbet with fresh berries and raspberry liqueur; and the Summer Vacherin, a mix of meringues, vanilla ice cream, and raspberry sorbet topped with raspberry coulis and Chantilly cream.
Though a two-course meal here may be on the pricier side, the quality of ingredients and the distinctive dining experience make it worth trying at least once in a lifetime — an ideal choice for a special occasion, rather than an everyday outing.
Check @lerelaisentrecote on Instagram for more details.
Ayman Al-Zubaidi: Bringing authentic Saudi flavors to London’s culinary scene
- The founder of London’s Hijazi Corner was hopeless in the kitchen, but his move abroad sparked a desire to recreate the cuisine of his homeland
LONDON: Ayman Al-Zubaidi — the acclaimed chef behind Hijazi Corner, London’s first Saudi Arabian restaurant — has cooked for dignitaries, diplomats, celebrities and even the Kingdom’s royal family. But his most discerning critics were waiting for him much closer to home.
In 2021, after several years living in London, Al-Zubaidi came home to Jeddah. But instead of the football shirt his family had pictured him wearing after his UK studies in sports science, he returned in chef whites. It was a transformation that no one saw coming — least of all him.
Growing up in Jeddah’s Al-Sabeel district with his sister and three brothers, Al-Zubaidi could barely boil his own water. The kitchen was strictly his mother’s territory, and his late-night culinary ventures didn’t go far beyond packets of instant noodles. But now, the tables had turned, and his mother was seated as his guest.
“When I first moved to the UK, I was clueless in the kitchen, so I called her for help,” Al-Zubaidi tells Arab News from his restaurant in London’s de facto Arab district of Edgware Road. It was her loving mentorship that laid the foundations for his culinary journey, shaping his path to becoming one of London’s most distinctive chefs.
“When any chef starts to speak about food, they talk about their mum. Her chicken kabsa is a bit oily, a bit shiny and looks amazing — even just talking about it now I become hungry,” Al-Zubaidi says. “But even if I had the same ingredients and made it the same way, hers would always taste better.”
Building on family recipes honed over decades by his ancestors in Yemen, Al Zubaidi’s Hijazi Corner is the only place in the UK capital where Saudis can find a true taste of home.
Lined with thick carpets and ornate window paneling evoking the buildings of Jeddah’s Al-Balad historical district, its menu is full of comforting favorites drawn from across the Kingdom’s western coastal region — chicken seelag, slow-roasted lamb haneeth and delicate, flaky samboosek.
“From the richest person to the poorest person in Saudi Arabia, we eat the same food,” he says. “When we celebrate, when we grieve, when we are happy or sad, we get masoub (banana pudding) or motabbaq (thin layers of pastry stuffed with meat).”
Al-Zubaidi’s path to the kitchen was anything but conventional. As a teenager eager to learn English, he set his sights on the UK, drawn by what he called “a love for the accent,” and made the leap in 2017. After completing his language course, he switched tracks to study sports. But somewhere between lectures and life abroad, homesickness hit in the form of a craving for the familiar flavors of Arabia.
“In London, you can find plenty of Turkish, Kurdish, Indian, even Malaysian options — but nothing from Saudi,” he explains. “So I decided to make it myself.” He began recreating the comforting dishes of home in his small Clapham flat, selling them cash-in-hand to fellow Saudis in search of an authentic taste of the Kingdom.
But the secret didn’t stay a secret for long. Soon, his passion found a new platform — Snapchat.
Al-Zubaidi shared short videos of his cooking process, garnishing each clip with personal moments and mouth-watering close-ups of Saudi dishes. His humble videos quickly gained a loyal fanbase, and orders poured in from every corner of the city — particularly as COVID took hold in the early months of 2020.
“People from the Saudi embassy added me, people from Aramco working in London added me. Saudis living here, working here, growing up here — plus lots of foreign people who had been to my country and tried this food before.”
What started as a side hustle quickly evolved into a pop-up, and by 2023, into a brick-and-mortar restaurant where Londoners could finally experience the authentic flavors of Saudi Arabia.
During the pop-up stage, Al-Zubaidi’s Snapchat followers became more than fans; they became enablers of his culinary vision, bringing a piece of Saudi Arabia to his London kitchen. Whenever one of his followers planned a trip from Saudi to the UK, they’d reach out, asking if he needed any hard-to-find ingredients.
Al-Zubaidi’s requests were simple but essential — fragrant spices, fresh dill, and most importantly, the special pastry sheets that he just couldn’t source in London.
“I’d say ‘I need the real pastry for samosa.’ And they’d bring it for me,” he says.
The enthusiasm was mutual. His followers were just as eager to bring these reminders of home, knowing he’d transform them into the dishes they missed.
Yet not everyone was as supportive. As he juggled his studies and the pop-up, criticism began to surface, especially from former friends back home.
“They mocked me,” he recalls. “They’d say things like, ‘You went to the UK to study, and now you’re just selling food?’”
Influencers he approached for social-media support brushed him off with dismissive remarks. But Al-Zubaidi was undeterred, finding new friends and switching his studies from sport to cooking. With a network of loyal clients and the backing of a few new investors he had met along the way, he began seriously considering a restaurant.
One wealthy friend, who had seen the young chef’s determination, urged him to take the plunge. After months of hard work studying knife skills, mastering Saudi dishes, and learning the restaurant business inside out, Al-Zubaidi took the leap.
Two years after opening its doors, Hijazi Corner is a definite success, becoming one of London’s top-rated Middle Eastern eateries. It’s perpetually packed with diners, and has become a go-to spot for celebrities, diplomats, and dignitaries from the Arab world and beyond, all seeking an authentic taste of Saudi Arabia.
After showcasing Saudi cuisine at several festivals and events, on National Day this September, Al-Zubaidi received a special honor — an invitation to the Kingdom’s embassy in London.
The recognition came after HRH Prince Khalid Bin Bandar Al-Saud, Saudi Arabia’s ambassador to the UK, visited Hijazi Corner and was so impressed that he mentioned it by name in his National Day speech. Al-Zubaidi, overcome with pride, shed tears of joy.
“I am proud of what I’ve achieved, but I haven’t finished yet,” he says. “This is just the beginning—there’s so much more of Saudi culture I want to share with the world.”
Where We Are Going Today: Raoul’s at VIA Riyadh
Raoul’s at VIA Riyadh transports diners to France with its elegant menu of French-inspired bites and desserts. The restaurant’s attention to detail and dedication to authentic flavors makes it a standout for those seeking a refined dining experience.
Start with the braised lamb, served on a crisp parmesan cookie and topped with a touch of tomato jam. This combination brings rich, savory flavors with a slight sweetness, capturing the essence of French cuisine.
The beetroot, feta and avocado mini-tart adds a refreshing, colorful bite to the meal, while the crispy crab beignets are light yet packed with flavor, offering a perfect contrast to the heavier dishes.
For dessert, Raoul’s sticky date pudding pops, coated in warm toffee sauce, provide a cozy, nostalgic sweetness, while raspberry profiteroles with a crispy biscuit finish the meal on a light, fruity note.
The drinks menu complements the French flavors, featuring options such as the Kir Royal, a sparkling blend of wine with cherry cordial, and the Pink Promise, which mixes sour soup juice, rose water, hibiscus tea and lime juice for a floral, refreshing taste. The ambiance is relaxed and sophisticated, with live music adding a touch of elegance to the dining experience.
However, parking at VIA Riyadh is not complimentary, which may be inconvenient for some diners. Despite this, Raoul’s dedication to authentic French techniques and modern twists makes it a fantastic choice for an elegant night out, offering dishes that are both classic and inventive.
For more information, check Instagram @raoulsrestaurant.sa