Growing up in an artistic household will surely nurture any creative inclinations an individual may have, and so was the case with Samar Nasraldin. Born and raised in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, Nasraldin was brought up immersed in her mother’s artistic ambiance of surrealist paintings and calligraphy. Aside from being an artist, Nasraldin describes her mother as “a visionary teacher who taught her daughter how to observe and create.” Grounded firmly in this inspired foundation, Nasraldin seemed destined to enter the innovative world of fashion design.
Nasraldin planned her path early on in her life. Even at the young age of 13, she was determined to pursue a career in fashion design. Her resolve led to teaching herself pattern making and sewing. In 2007, she graduated from a vocational high school in which she specialized in fashion and textile. For the following two years she studied at the Millennium Institute of Technology in Jeddah, where she earned a diploma in Fashion Design and Technology. Next, she spent six months of vigorous training at the respected Central Saint Martins as well as London College of Fashion (two colleges among the several that make up The University of the Arts London). There, she concentrated on 3D fashion design, creative pattern making, and couture sewing techniques. In order to continue her education, she remained in Europe, however she moved to Paris, France for two years. In Paris, she earned a Bachelor of Arts degree in Stylisme et Technologie de la Mode (Fashion Design & Technology) from the International Fashion Academy (IFA) in 2013. While at the IFA, Nasraldin was selected to partake in their fashion show at the historic Salle Erard. Inspired by the commonalities between Sufism and Surrealism and the “unity of contradictions,” she created her graduate collection. During her time in Paris, Nasraldin was chosen along with seven other fashion students from around the world by The Arts of Fashion Foundation to participate in their four week Summer Fashion Masterclass Program in 2012. The program involved working on a project, which was a collaboration with Maison Lesage. Les Arts Decoratifs hosted the exhibition of this collaboration at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs. “The event was covered by Le Figaro Madame and other distinguished audience members,” she explains. Aside from these recent accomplishments and events, Nasraldin has worked locally (Sotra, Lomar, and Maha Ghalayini) and internationally during the Paris Fashion Week at various positions (Thamanyah, Kenzo, and Ungaro among others) since 2007.
In 2014, Nasraldin partnered with the Saudi-based, Ot Kutyr fashion house, which supports up and coming designers, to establish the brand Atūlier. Since then, her designs have been asserting masterful originality on catwalks in London, Paris, and New York. “I want people to be conscious about what they are wearing and appreciate new aesthetics, and realize that it is ok to not wear what is provocative or extremely feminine.” Atulier pieces are simple yet intense, elegant yet sharp, classic yet with a hint of edginess. She wants women “to feel distinctive, strong, but in a fragile way.” Despite Nasraldin’s acknowledgment that her designs require a level of courage to be worn, and therefore have encountered hate, many have embraced Atūlier, which is a testament to the raw and pure talent and passion it exudes. In an interview with Arab News, Nasraldin shares her process, her vision for Atūlier, as well as what she is working on next.
Please tell us about Atulier.
Atulier is a play on the word “atelier,” which means a studio, and was used to emphasize fine craftsmanship. The “u” with the dash symbolizes the souvenirs.
The story of the brand is that the designer goes through a mystical journey and each collection is a souvenir that is brought back to the audience. It is available in Jeddah at Rubaiyat Department Store in Stars Avenue, at Ot Kutyr fashion house as well as the website www.atulier-online.com.
While creating your designs, where do you find inspiration?
I like to start with a word and look up its definition and then I interpret an abstract feeling/state of mind associated with the word, I then try to apply it into a 3D form and play along with that. Next, I put that feeling into textures and colors as well. They all come together magically.
In your opinion, what sets Atulier apart from the rest?
I believe that creating something “conceptual” is very hard these days, as the fashion industry is leaning toward commerciality and what is popular. Atūlier is the exact opposite of that; its aim is to accentuate the craftsmanship and to bring new perspectives through the clothes.
Your designs give an air of sophistication and boldness, what kind of feedback do you receive from clients about your pieces?
They either hate it or fall madly in love with it, and I love that contradiction of feelings in people. I understand it takes courage to wear my pieces, so if you want to wear a plain t-shirt you can simply find that at Zara.
Are there any updates or news that you can share about your brand for the upcoming year?
The upcoming year will be exciting! Spring/Summer 2016 will be in stores soon. And we are working on two capsules currently, one for Ramadan and another for Fall/Winter 16/17! Also, I’m proud to announce that Atulier was chosen as a finalist for the Vogue Fashion Experience hosted by Vogue Italia and Rubaiyat.
For more information and updates from the innovative designer follow Atulier by Samar Nasraldin on Instagram (@atulier) or for inquiries, e-mail ([email protected]).
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Email: [email protected]
Atulier by Samar Nasraldin: A new perspective through craftsmanship
Atulier by Samar Nasraldin: A new perspective through craftsmanship
Queen Rania celebrates Crown Prince Hussein’s birthday with a portrait featuring Princess Rajwa
DUBAI: Jordan’s Queen Rania celebrated her son Crown Prince Hussein bin Abdullah’s birthday on Instagram with a newly released portrait of him and his wife, Princess Rajwa.
In the photo, the pregnant Princess Rajwa, who is Saudi, is seen wearing a light, creamy yellow midi dress from the Spanish brand Rabanne. The dress features short sleeves, a round neckline and a gathered detail along one side, adorned with a row of buttons.
The crown prince was wearing a navy blue shirt and matching trousers.
“Happy birthday my dearest Hussein. Can’t wait to see you and Rajwa as parents,” the queen captioned the post.
The royal couple, who announced their pregnancy in April, are expecting their first child this summer.
High fashion: Saudi label Ashi Studio unveils Riyadh Air cabin crew uniforms in Paris
PARIS: Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi, founder of the Paris-based label Ashi Studio, has unveiled the inaugural cabin crew uniforms for the Kingdom’s new airline, Riyadh Air, which is on track to make its maiden flight in 2025.
The glittering event took place after the couturier’s Haute Couture Week show in the French capital on Thursday.
“What we’ve done is, we’ve taken the golden age of aviation and we are representing it in the current day; it’s a relevant collection,” Ashi said at the grand reveal of his collaboration with Riyadh Air on Thursday evening.
“It’s not cabin crew ‘uniforms,’ it’s cabin crew fashion,” Tony Douglas, the CEO of Riyadh Air, told the crowd at the runway show.
The luxury line is comprised of timeless cashmere outerwear, elegant dresses and trousers made of fine wools, custom leather footwear, amethyst earrings, and pillbox hats, all of which were inspired by 1950s airline fashion, widely considered the “golden age” in aviation - but with an Ashi twist.
For the uniforms, Ashi created an entirely new color tone — Electric Amethyst for womenswear and Dark Amethyst for menswear. The unique amethyst shades pay homage to Saudi Arabia’s lavender fields and are rooted within Riyadh Air’s bold color scheme. The process of creating the color alone took six months, according to show notes.
The fashion collection will be worn by Riyadh Air cabin crew, pilots, concierge agents and airport staff. They will be changed seasonally to keep the looks fresh.
“We feel that he has actually done an incredible job of connecting back to those halcyon days of commercial aviation, the kind of Pan Ams the TWA used (from the 1950s), the “Catch Me If You Can” — with a real modern twist,” Douglas shared, referring to the hit 2002 film.
“What Ashi and his studio have created brings back glamor,” Douglas added.
Ten womenswear looks were shown on the Paris runway, each of which were accompanied by accessories such as shoes, purses and hats. Five menswear looks were also unveiled, with the rest being kept under wraps.
Ashi included distinctive Riyadh Air elements within the concepts, such as adding the canopy twist found in the Riyadh Air brand logo into the silhouettes of some of the pieces.
There were some modest options, including a turban for women, as well as trousers. The skirts were below the knee and embodied a sleek clean design with some high collars on show.
“For a start-up airline to be showcasing our new fashion collection during Haute Couture Week in Paris shows what an impact Riyadh Air is having globally,” Douglas told the crowd to mark the launch. “Working with Ashi on these designs has been a tremendous experience for all of us and we’re all very proud to be able to show off the creations and the full range early next year.”
He was quick to point out that the elegant and chic designs will soon be recognizable in airports around the world.
“The designs will leave a lasting impression on our guests by the proud team members that wear them. When you get up close to the garments you can see the level of detail and intricacy that Ashi has included, which is in complete alignment of our values and attention to detail at Riyadh Air,” Douglas added.
“Designing for the new national airline from Saudi Arabia has had a big impact on me knowing that we are making a mark in history,” Ashi said. “Fashion and aviation have seen collaborations in the past, but its pinnacle was over 50 years ago, and I was keen to be inspired by that time. This is an amazing collaboration where fashion is helping to make an airline modern with completely unique looks. It shows that Riyadh Air has no limits and that luxury and attention to detail is key across every aspect of the experience.”
Riyadh Air will take its maiden flight in mid-2025, connecting the Saudi capital to more than 100 destinations by 2030. Ashi — or at least his creations — will be along for the ride.
Saudi-helmed Ashi Studio showcases new collection at Paris Haute Couture Week
- ‘Sculpted Clouds’ draws on ‘pure emotions’
PARIS: Paris-based label Ashi Studio, which was founded by Saudi designer Mohammed Ashi, has showcased its Fall/Winter 2024-25 Collection, called “Sculpted Clouds,” as part of the Paris Haute Couture Week.
Guests were escorted from the scorching summer heat into a darkened room with booming sounds, creating an other-worldly atmosphere. The catwalk wrapped around the small, intimate space as the audience was immersed in Ashi Studio’s avant-garde designs, a collection that captures its signature style — merging the theatrical with elements of nature.
From dark to light to dark again, the billowing yet structured garments playfully juxtaposed the different styles and textures, and produced a dazzling array of silhouettes, easily slipping between the hard and the soft, the feminine and the masculine.
It is a collection that heavily draws from nature as well. The models wore slick-back buns and minimal makeup and offered a clean canvas to go alongside the dramatic designs.
Ashi said: “My collection is born of pure emotions, translating the human experience.
“At the creative onset, feelings appeared like flashes to me — courage and determination, grace, and protection. I imagine a world where the soul moves from one place to another.
“My muse is the woman who is always searching. She embraces her fate, whatever it may be.”
Ashi became the first couturier from the region to join the Federation de la Haute Couture in Paris as a guest member in 2023.
He is also scheduled to unveil uniform design concepts for the much-anticipated Riyadh Air launch.
Ashi’s designs have been worn by celebrities such as Beyonce, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Hudson, Kylie Minogue, Penelope Cruz, Deepika Padukone, Sonam Kapoor, and Queen Rania of Jordan.
Elie Saab, Zuhair Murad dazzle with Fall/Winter 2024 collections at Paris Haute Couture Week
- Saab presented fairytale brides, silver foliage, midnight shadows
- Murad featured rich fabrics with beadwork, sequins, embroidery
DUBAI: Lebanese designers Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad have wowed the fasion world with their fall and winter 2024 to 2025 collections, presented during Paris Haute Couture Week.
Saab presented touches of magic and splendor for his guests which included Avril Lavigne and Ellie Goulding at Paris’ Musee des Arts Decoratifs.
With silks and velvet, the Lebanese couturier once again conjured a fantastical, almost fairytale world of bridal queens, gleaming foliage and midnight shadows.
This season, the fashion world also had another peek at couture for men, which is a growing phenomenon.
The couturier’s fall collection was presented dramatically at midnight to elicit a dark mood. Models in black leather opera gloves and graphic bands of black satin set the tone.
Men’s couture capes, part of Saab’s theme since fall 2022, were embroidered with sequins and gleaming threads, resembling silver foliage kissed by morning dew. Saab’s opulent men’s couture line continues to add a new dimension to his brand, catering to a market segment that craves visibility.
In the predominantly women’s display, organza whooshes swirled artistly upward from the waist. As the show progressed, the color palette softened. In addition, tried-and-tested floor-length silhouettes dazzled in gemstone hues.
A standout piece was a shoulderless gown in powder red, where sequins on the bodice morphed into a sea of feathers cascading down the mermaid-like skirt. The transformation of textures underscored Saab’s craftsmanship.
Meanwhile, Murad’s collection — which was presented at Hotel Salomon De Rothschild — featured an array of rich fabrics including velvet, silk and lace, with each piece having meticulous beadwork, sequins and embroidery.
The color palette was dramatic and sophisticated, dominated by blacks, deep reds, and metallic hues. The warmer tones of bronze and copper were also included. Silhouettes varied from dramatic, voluminous gowns to sleek, body-hugging dresses, featuring daring cutouts and necklines.
Notable design elements include exaggerated shoulders, intricate draping, and asymmetrical details.
Loli Bahia, Nora Attal strut for Chanel in Paris
DUBAI: French Algerian model Loli Bahia and British Moroccan catwalk star Nora Attal captured everyone’s attention when they took to the Chanel runway during Paris Fashion Week to unveil looks from the brand’s fall/winter 2024-2025 collection.
Bahia donned a two-piece ensemble comprising a tailored buttoned jacket complemented by a matching knee-length skirt in a delicate tweed fabric. Both garments were adorned with subtle black tassel details.
The 21-year-old model’s look was topped off with a refined touch of black ribbon bow accents in her hair and black strappy heels.
Attal, 25, wore a dazzling black jacket embellished with intricate sequin and beadwork, creating a floral motif with a hint of shimmer. This was paired with a classic, knee-length black skirt.
Her hair was adorned with large black ribbon bows, and the look was completed with black open-toe heels.
Chanel’s haute couture show came just three weeks after the sudden departure of creative director Virginie Viard, who had been with the brand for nearly 30 years.
Viard took over the role following the death of the legendary Karl Lagerfeld in 2019, which whom she had worked for many years. Under her leadership, Chanel achieved record sales last year of nearly $20 billion.
The collection, showcased at the Opera Garnier, was a blend of sophistication and theatricality.
There was less accessorizing, a departure from Viard’s hallmark, and more focus on the garments themselves. The intricate craftsmanship was highlighted along with the luxurious materials, which included feathers, tassels, embroidered flowers, lacquered jersey, silky velvet, tulle, taffeta and duchesse satin.
Although the necklines were a standout feature — scooped or raised mini-turtle necks —alongside banded, accented shoulders or busts, the collection as a whole had a slightly disparate feel that sometimes lacked a singular aesthetic anchor.
Chanel paid tribute to the ateliers of the “petites mains,” or the dozens of artisans who work a stone’s throw from the venue.
